I'm getting ready to start my motor for the first time and part of what I had to do to get ready to do this was to fix a lot of the wiring that was butchered by the previous owner(s). I'm worried that I'll try to crank it over and either nothing will happen, or, just the starter will crank and no spark will get to the distributor, thus maybe wiping out my cam lobes as it just cranks and doesn't start.

My question is, with the key in the accessories position (just prior to turning it all the way to start it), what should be hot that I can check with my voltmeter? Should the posi terminal on the coil be hot?

Not sure if this matters but my car's a '69 with points distributor. TIA - Jon

------------------
'69 Restification

with the accessory position, no the coil should not be hot, it does have a hot wire to it, but the resistance wire coming from the dash harness should not be. otherwise when you turn the car off, the distributer still has power, so the car would continue to run.

inside, the only fuses that should be hot are

lights
acc
cig
dash
stop/haz
heater (on my 67 at least)
and the 12v posts for accessories.. there always on..

and everything should be "hot" when in the on position.


the position you call "accessory" is actually "ON" so YES all your stuff should be hot...

Accessory is all the way back (colum key cars) and all the way left on dash key cars
------------------
Chris's 67 RS/SS,can be seen at http://www.67rs.com
check out another site once in a while! http://www.fbodyconnection.com

[This message has been edited by Chris Edwards (edited 03-27-2002).]

Thanks Chris - and yes, I was talking about the "On" position. Thanks for deciphering my message.

I worked on the car a bit last night and on a whim turned the key all the way to see if it crank just a bit - nothing. I traced the problem to the junction box. I've got power from the battery going straight to the 12V terminal but all the other terminals are still cold although the fuses aren't blown in the junction block. Something's amiss here. I then connected the power wire that runs to the regulator and horn relay to the same junction box terminal as the battery and EUREKA! The engine cranked (just once - then I let off). I'm either going to have to get a new junction block or add a fusible link to the line that runs to the regulator and horn relay. Anyone have any advice as to what guage the fusible link should be? The hot wire is 10 guage.

i just got my 68 wired back up after puting in a painless wire setup for tpi, and i think that the horn relay must be hooked up to start. cuz mine wouldnt crank ether untill i hooked it up. so dont worry i think its normal. can anyone correct me if im wrong. i have a wire diagram if you need it. and ricks fistgen has new engine harnesses for $70, if your was that bad. thats the way im going now that i know that it runs

------------------
free 68 in japan my first chevy http://www.geocities.com/claycitydude/68

2 gauges smaller then the wire you want to protect.

Thanks JHOW