Well here's my problem. I bought my 67 Camaro for $900.00 bucks. When I purchased it, I was told that the engine hadn't been turned over for 6-7 months. They told me that the last sound they hears was like a grinding sound coming from the starter or something, and that I might want to think about changing the alternator. Let me add that the engine was replaced with a 283 a while back. Not the biggest thing in the world but good gas mileage though. Well I got it home and started checking things out. I replaced the old starter with a rebuilt one from AutoZone and a new alternator. Checked all the wiring and turned the car on. The car started, with a little adjustment to the distributor, she ran great. She was at idle for 5 minutes then I turned her off and could never get her started again. The battery is fine because I use it to turn on my brothers old Mercedes, the only thing I get when I hook up the battery is an "Ignition" and a "Generator" light that turns on when I turn the key. It will only make a "Klick" sound once and that's it until I disconnect the battery and try again. Can any one help a rookie? I forgot to mention that my car comes with a manual 3speed transmission.



[This message has been edited by FIL (edited 11-03-2000).]

[This message has been edited by FIL (edited 11-08-2000).]

Have you got lights, radio, etc.? If so, it could be the solenoid if it makes a single click. I made a jump start button that has 2 leads with alligator clips, one to a hot power source (e.g. the battery post on the solenoid), the other to the ignition terminal on the solenoid. If you jump the solenoid, and it only clicks, you may have a bad one. It's an easy start to the problem, and if it does turn over, you can start tracing the wires back with a test light.

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Bing
1956 Chev 150 2dr sedan 302ci
1965 Chev Malibu 2dr hdtp 496ci
1967 Chev Camaro 327ci

When you hear the click it means you have juice but it isn't reaching the starter. Since it started no problem the first time, it sounds like a neutral safety switch. This is real easy to test(if an automatic). Put the car in neutral and turn the ignition on and hold. Now shift from N to D untill it starts to turn over. If you hear it try to crank or it starts, it means the conection point on the NSS is going bad. Replace it, it's real cheap.
Since your running a 3 speed. The NSS works the same way. Its there to keep the car from starting in reverse or in gear. to test the switch, put the car in neutral, push the clutch and brake. turn the ignition on and hold. Shift from N to first untill you get a crank. If nothing happens, check your fuses, regulator, starter ground, battery ground, and ignition wires.
GOOD LUCK

[This message has been edited by goatjj (edited 11-03-2000).]

Make sure your battery cables are good. Sometimes they corrode inside the insulation and won't give you enough juice to turn over the starter. Did the starter sound funny the first time you cranked it over? Maybe it binds against the flywheel and needs to be shimmed out a bit. Did you get a new solenoid when you got the starter? Just a couple more things to check.

Mark

Just re-read your post. The lights are on with the key in the "off" position? Sounds like the ignition switch may be bad, or just stuck from non-use.

[This message has been edited by mbrekke (edited 11-03-2000).]

[This message has been edited by mbrekke (edited 11-03-2000).]

inline fuse link is bad on your starter..there two of them ... remove from starter and run them to battery ! same thing but easy to replace in the rain or snow!one is for fuse box and one for alt. the one for alt. is bad ...run them to pos side of battery .. easy next time