Here it is, by request. Use test leads to connect switch to motor. Test switch between metal part and spade terminals for 0 ohms in each position. Low is just light blue at 0 ohm, High is both black and light blue at 0 ohm. Washer+ low are light blue and dark blue at 0 ohm. Any questions? Kevin

http://www.fototime.com/E823D56AF1C936C/standard.jpg

So is this the color schem for the factory harness? What are you using the battery charger for? What is your meaning behind the 0 ohms at the end of each statement? Thanks for looking into this, I have a system I need to rebuild and now I can wire it myself. good work.
Eric

I believe he means the resistance to ground should be 0 ohms at each switch position (measured between switch terminal and switch ground). It might register a fraction of an ohm, but the point is, the switch is grounding the leads to the motor to provide the two speeds. If the switch showed something greater than 1 ohm, the switch (or your test leads) is bad.

-dnult

The charger is just one way to power the setup. A car battery with cables would work also. I use a 12-volt power supply to test stuff.

This is assuming the device ya wanna juice up is out of the car.

bbc427, the colors are for 69. I don't know if 68 or 67 are different. I threw the 0 ohm stuff in to make sure you test your switch before troubleshooting the motor. Like dnult says, you test between metal ground and the switch spade terminals for 0 ohms (good connection!)

I used the battery charger cause I was doing this in my basement and did not feel like lugging the battery downstairs. I tested the motor with vise grips holding the 2 halfs together after taking it apart to clean it. No sense in crimping the halfs back together and find you had a bad solder! smile.gif I also put the motor in a vise to prevent the torque from twisting the motor around.

Kevin

Jim, what about making this one sticky. It gets referenced about once a month it seems.

Thanks Dave! If I could get my hands on some 67 parts, i could make up a 67 test diagram. :)

This is helpful. My problem is it looks like all of my wires are black. Might have been painted when the firewall was done. I'll take a closer look tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

What about when it comes to a combined windshield washer motor w/pump, Do you have a schematic for that? What i am getting from what you are saying is that there is no pwr present @ the switch itself, and only @ the motor itself?

what connector does the 3 wire connector connect to, the washer motor or the wiper motor?

Steve the 3 contacts on the motor in a factory harness are a single for the yellow wire and a double for the Light Blue and black. The new harness must have combined them.

Thank Jeff (yellow69RS) as he lent me his GM Wiper manual.
11960
11961
11962
Hope this helps.

No, one of the connectors has 3 wires( 2 of the wires are together) and the third from one jumps to the other connector.

what connector does the 3 wire connector connect to, the washer motor or the wiper motor?
That connector goes to the wiper motor. The yellow is hot with key on. the light blue is low speed. The other conector goes to the pump(yellow and dark blue) the third wire should be black and in single connector.

Jeff