was working fine and did it last night. i replaced the three in 10 minutes and burn them. today i checked the wiring pretty quickly and found nothing so far. before i go and tear the interior and all the wiring apart, anyone have any suggestions or tips on what it might be? last thing, i have the 68 wiring diagram. i need to find it, but if i remember correctly, it covers the standard model. what is the main difference how can i get a copy for an RS model?

------------------
68'/SS Clone "teSSa"
88'/BMW 735i
90'/Camaro
74'/Green "turtle" Van...lol

Only can be two things causing the fuse to blow, short to ground (power to ground) or an overloaded circuit (something added to the circuit that draws more than the fuse rating).
On a 69' the only differences in wiring diagrams I've seen were power windows, convertible top, and spot light option. I don't believe you'll find a difference between a base coupe and an RS on the brake light circuit.

------------------
Drew

69' X-11 350, Turbo 350, Factory Air, PS, PB, 12 Bolt (410 gear) & NOT AN SS

the rating on the fuse is AG-20. what other fuse can i put in to avoid the burn out?.......on the standard coupe, there is one brown wire that splits to all the rear lights; the side markers and the tail-lights. then one dark green that goes to the right hand tail-light. then it has one yellow going to the left side. my question is if this dark green and yellow split for the two sockets in the RS model, or if they have another separate wire not to over load the fuse and blow it. hope this makes sense.

[This message has been edited by teSSa (edited 07-25-2002).]

"my question is if this dark green and yellow split for the two sockets in the RS model, or if they have another separate wire not to over load the fuse and blow it."

The green and yellow colors are standard GM colors for the brake circuit. Doesn't matter if you have one light bulb on each side or four. Vegas, Camaros, Olds.. They are all wired the same.

Yellow & green are the wires for the turn signals which also are used for brakes lights. The brown wire is for your running lights. This is pretty much a standard on most vehicles & trailers. Check your sockets and flashers before you start looking at the wiring.
Do your turn signals work OK without blowing a fuse?
The rear light harness runs to the back of the car at the bottom of driver's door under the sill plate (S/S plate says Fisher Body), than there is a galvanized plate below that where the harness runs at least on a 69' but thats all I've ever owned and I would think that is the same.
I don't think you have to tear the interior apart to fix your problem.
Good luck, and let us know what you find.

Don't select a fuse that will handle the current unless you know what's going on with certainty. On the otherhand, put a 50 amp in there to help you find the short because it will cause an electrical fire in the offending circuit...just kidding.

Put a test lamp in series with the battery. Put your fuse in (the right size), and activate the circuit. Start by removing the bulbs, wiggling wires, and removing screws until the light goes off. This should isolate the problem.

-dnult

i pulled all the rear wiring out, seems ther were are few 'no-no's' in there. got all the wiring straight, but the passengers side is a bit goofy. brake lights work, turn signals work, running lights work, but when i put the turn signal while i'm stoping, the brake light turns off, what is the matter now?

Check your ground wires for the sockets, that's what I would do first.

I use heat sealed connectors for all my wiring repairs, a little more costly but if done right you won't ever have a problem there. Seals out moisture and oxygen two culprits of corrosion. If you can't find the heat sealed connectors get yourself a can of liquid electrical tape and coat the connectors when your finished and the repair is verified.

[This message has been edited by drew69 (edited 07-26-2002).]