Well, in taking my car out of hibernation, it doesn't shut off when I turn the ignition key off. Since I have an underdash kill switch, I have been using that to stop the motor. Is this a case of needing a new ignition switch?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RickD:
Well, in taking my car out of hibernation, it doesn't shut off when I turn the ignition key off. Since I have an underdash kill switch, I have been using that to stop the motor. Is this a case of needing a new ignition switch?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
You may be backfeeding from your regulator back to your switch
I just ran in to this after installing a pain(in the ***)less wiring kit in my 68. I installed a radioshack no. 276-1661 rectifier(diode) on the regulator (i forget which lug i connected it to, but it goes back to the alt. from the regulator.. good luck

had the same problem when i had a msd box in the car before i switch to a hei. msd send me a diode that went on lug 4. be sure and put it in the right direction.

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Interesting. I replaced the wiring harness over the winter with one from Factory Fit. I noticed the original harness was missing the wire from the 4 lug on the voltage regulator but my wiring diagram showed it went to the generator idiot light. I didn't think anything of it. Maybe I misread the schematic. How do you connect a diode - solder it inline? Why does this problem exist when the harness is replaced?

sometimes , depending on the application, the wires for the hei (if you have it) or points dist. are tagged hot, instead of a resistance wire, if its not a resistance wire and hot all the time it will run after the key is turned off because the coil is still recieving current.


just a thought.



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Chris's 67 RS can be seen at http://www.geocities.com/macphreak4evr/index.html
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OK. Does the diode get soldered inline?

What Chris has said sounds correct. If you get no fire to the coil, it can't run once this is done. Even with HEI and having the coil in the Dist. Cap, you can still test it. If you have power when the car is shut off, then it's done wrong. If all else fails, and you can't find a wire that comes on with your switch, run one from the battery to the coil with a toggle switch to the inside of your car that you can get to, but beware, it will be aggrivating to cut on and off all the time. Surely it won't be hard to find a wire that cuts off with the switch. Light testers are wonderful about this time.........

So my 67 is doing the same thing, except when I push in the e-brake, the car shuts off. Did anyone find a 100% solution to this problem? When the e-brake is not engauged and the key is turned off, the generator light comes on, but the car does not turn off, once the e-brake is compressed, the brake light comes on, the generator light turns off and the car shuts down. Help?!?