I have a 1987 Z28 with the 305tpi. Lately there's been a noise similar to that of wind howling from under the hood. I think it may be the alternator but not sure. Just today all power was lost in my car, disabling it, sadly. If anyone knows what to look for is somewhat sure what to look for, please contact me. Like I said, it seems like it may be an alternator gone bad due to stress or something else. By the way the battery is only a few months old, and at one point the belt connected to the alternator fan was too tight, warping a pulley.

Take the belt off and spin the alternator by hand. How does it sound? Does it feel loose?

You can take it to most auto parts stores and they can spin test it and see if it's bad.
David

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Sounds like the internal voltage regulator which is inside the alternator on an 87. Sometimes on a dying regulator you can hear engine RPM radio noise before it dies. Then your headlights won't get bright anymore when you rev the engine. Finally, your GEN idiot light will come on or voltmeter will read low as you drain all of the juice out of the battery.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 87tuneport:
I have a 1987 Z28 with the 305tpi. Lately there's been a noise similar to that of wind howling from under the hood. I think it may be the alternator but not sure. Just today all power was lost in my car, disabling it, sadly. If anyone knows what to look for is somewhat sure what to look for, please contact me. Like I said, it seems like it may be an alternator gone bad due to stress or something else. By the way the battery is only a few months old, and at one point the belt connected to the alternator fan was too tight, warping a pulley.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you jumpstart your car or someone elses car you can burn the diodes in the internal regulator that's what it sounds like to me or the bearings could be shot in the alt from the belt being to tight.

Tony,

the TPI is a serpantine Belt it cant be too tight. sounds like the alternator is fried.

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I would say bearings, I've seen diodes explode but never heard them howl.

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If you are going to replace the bearings you may want to consider replacing them with a name-brand part from an industrial distributor such as Kaman Industrial Technologies, Motion Industries, or Applied Industrial Technologies. Bring in the old bearings and ask for NSK, SKF, ***, or Torrington for the front bearing and INA for the back if it is a needle roller. Most alternator shops use junky Chinese and Eastern European bearings because they are really cheap. You can usually the best name-brand item from the I.D. for less than auto parts store prices. I recently saw a front alternator bearing for a Hitachi alternator "On Sale" for just under $9.00. It was Chinese junk. The same size, name-brand, could be had at an I.D. for $5.00.

The same is true for many bearings or seals in automotive applications. There are just too many middle-men in the automotive aftermarket.

Be sure to ask for two rubber seals (preferably light or non-contact), C3 internal clearance, ABEC1. Do not use a shielded type. The grease that is used by the major manufacturers will be fine. I've seen reports on some Chinese products that used an unidentifiable grease. Yuck.

Hope this helps.

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