View Full Version : Testing the console gauges?


Scooby Doo
Apr 13th, 01, 06:28 AM
I'm looking at buying a set of '67 console gauges. Anyone ever test their's before installing? I assume you could put a signal generator on each gauge as long as you knew the factor.

Dave

Alberta 68RS/SS
Apr 13th, 01, 10:41 AM
Did you try manually moving the gauge back and forth with an ohm meter attached. I don't know the measurements you should see, but the value should change with the position of the gauge indicator.

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/jgrock/sideveiw.jpg


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1968 RS/SS 454 TH400 Black Deluxe Interior

Scooby Doo
Apr 15th, 01, 09:29 AM
I guess no one has ever done this????

Dave

Mark C
Apr 15th, 01, 05:07 PM
Sure it's been done. The Temperature gauge and the fuel sender are nothing but potentiometers. The fuel sender has a resistance something like 2 to 80 ohms, so all you need is to supply 12 volts to the gauge, connect a 0 to 100 ohm potentiometer to the signal lead. 100 ohms should be full, 0 should be empty.

For the Temperature gauge a similar setup will work, but its easier to stick the sender in a pot of water on the stove and read the gauge, as it heats up to boiling. For this test you need to connect the signal wire the the sender, and a wire to the body of the sender to act as a ground.

The Ammeter is a really a millivolt meter, DO NOT hook it to a current source as you will smoke the meter. In the car it measures the voltage drop in the red wire between the battery and the horn relay.


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Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

JohnZ
Apr 16th, 01, 05:08 PM
Radio Shack sells a nice little 0-100 ohm potentiometer for about $4.00; it has 3 taps on it - tie the center one to one of the end ones, solder two jumper wires to it, and you have the equivalent of your fuel tank sending unit. Disconnect the tan wire from the fuel gauge, connect one of the jumpers to that terminal, and the other jumper to ground. Turn the key on, and by rotating the pot shaft, at one end of travel ("0" ohms) your gauge should read Empty, and at nearly full travel the other way (90 ohms or so), your gauge should read Full. This will verify that the gauge is OK and the problem is between the gauge and the sending unit. Made this little device years ago, great simple diagnostic tool. Check the pot out first with an ohmmeter to figure out which of the two end taps to tie to the center tap so test logic makes sense - clockwise more resistance and higher gauge reading, counter-clockwise less resistance and lower gauge reading.

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JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green