I recently installed after market analog gauges in my 69. I took route of splicing gauge light wires with the shift plate lights wires under the console; hot/hot ground/ground(probably not the best method). Lights worked fine, but battery was dead the next morning.

I completely disconnected gauge lights and fully charged battery. I insured that the shift plate light wiring was properly covered. Basically I attempted to return the wiring situation as it was before. The next morning battery dead again. I checked shift plate lighting with voltmeter and its grounding properly. I am suspicious of the gear sensor(?) since the wire end came out of where it is seated and I had to reseat. I can't seem to get a volt reading on that sensor so I can't be sure. This is new ground to me and I want to be careful going forward. Any suggestions on how to chase this ground gremlin down?

Okay, I think I need help under the shift plate.

As for the gauge lights, I read back on similar situations posted, and found the spade on the lower left side of the fuse box and a good ground and that should work fine. With that eliminated, I apparently still have a problem from when I was hacking around under the shift plate. I "think" I tested everything for continuity and hope that everything under there is grounded, but I am still having a battery drain. I think I can eliminate the gauge lights at this time and want to focus under the shift plate to find the short to ground. Can anyone offer some suggestions/methods for me to kill this problem?

There are lots of posts in the archives regarding electrical drains. One method that is most effective, involves installing a test light between one of the battery cables and it's associated battery post. (Many use the positive cable, but it doesn't matter which). Then begin pulling fuses until the test lamp goes out. This will isolate the problem to a particular circuit.

-dnult

dnult,

Thank you. In fact, I did run across a response you provided earlier to an individual with similar experience and just bought the test light. I'll get into it today and find this gremlin.

I appreciate it, and will let you know how it goes!

one quick question...do I need to ground the test light?

You might check the rear console bulb contacts. They are fed hot all the time and switched common by by the door switches. If the contacts are pulled off of the lens/holder they will short on the rear console mount.

Thanks. The rear console lamp bulb was missing. I replaced. I also took out the console and found under the carpet lining that one of the shift plate bulbs was in fact not grounded properly. I took care of that as well. Hopefully this will fix the problem. I appreciate the help!

Originally posted by ms69:
one quick question...do I need to ground the test light? The test light should be inserted between one of the battery cables and the respective battery post. This way, if current flows in the system the test light will illuminate. It may be dim, but it will indicate any current drain you might have.

-dnult

Originally posted by dnult:
The test light should be inserted between one of the battery cables and the respective battery post. This way, if current flows in the system the test light will illuminate. It may be dim, but it will indicate any current drain you might have.

-dnult Either cable will work but..
The battery ground (-) cable is safer to use in case one drops it during the test. The positive cable makes nice sparks if you drop that one. May have done that once.

Well, I have done all the above and after removing the console and properly grounding the wiring underneath, the problem is gone. Battery holds charge as it should.

Thanks again for all the help guys! Hope this is the last of the electrical problems.

Originally posted by John_Muha:
Either cable will work but..
The battery ground (-) cable is safer to use in case one drops it during the test. The positive cable makes nice sparks if you drop that one. May have done that once. Think about that one for a second. If the positive cable is dropped on a grounded circuit, the circuit will be shorted, not the battery. The positive post will still be connected to nothing. Or did I misinterpret your comment?

-dnult

The (negative) ground cable is the preferred one to remove, as it completely cuts the ground path back to the battery from any "hot" source anywhere in the car, making it impossible to create a spark or a dead short; if current can't flow back to the (-) side of the battery, it won't flow at all. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by dnult:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by John_Muha:
Either cable will work but..
The battery ground (-) cable is safer to use in case one drops it during the test. The positive cable makes nice sparks if you drop that one. May have done that once. Think about that one for a second. If the positive cable is dropped on a grounded circuit, the circuit will be shorted, not the battery. The positive post will still be connected to nothing. Or did I misinterpret your comment?

-dnult </font>[/QUOTE]So true, So true, So true. But remember one thing. You are trying to hold all of this in the air. Doubt many people use a UL rated meter. Don't drop the cable with the meter lead attached while the other lead is being held to the battery. (I think that's a complete circuit that dumps full circuit).
I always use a cheap meter around the car 'cause if the meter get messed up it's no biggie, but there is a down-side working near the battery.

Your right John. You'd need a pretty beefy meter to work on an automotive electrical system. I've seen more than a few Flukes turn into baby rattles after someone hooked them up as an amp meter accros 12Volts. graemlins/clonk.gif I'm sure you would agree that the buety of a test light is that it self regulates so the smoke and fire don't get out. :D

-dnult

Originally posted by dnult:
I'm sure you would agree that the buety of a test light is that it self regulates so the smoke and fire don't get out. :D

-dnult Ah yes, I sure do.
Later.