Looking for a little help since I can't seem to solve this on my own. Maybe I'm
missing the obvious.....I've looked through several posts in this forum and tried
some of the suggestions but no luck as of yet.
Here's some info on my car and where I am with the problem now.

67 Camaro
HEI dist
Later model (1974) altenator
Painless wiring circuit installed.
Problem: The car will not turn off and with the key in the off position I can unplug the 2 wire (red&white) plug and it will still continue to run.

Wiring:
Main Battery cable is routed to the starter post.
From the same post on the starter I have a 12guage wire routed to the altenator
and landed on the "BAT" terminal for a 12 volt supply.
From the battery I also have a 10guage wire routed to a 50amp breaker.
From the other side of the breaker I have a 12 guage wire routed and landed on
the "BAT" connector of the HEI for a constant 12 volt supply.
Also from the same screw post on the 50amp breaker I have the main power wire rounted
to the fuse box for incoming supply voltage.
On the altenator I have the internal regulator plug which is a red and white wire,
red jumped to the "BAT" post on the altenator and the white soldered and heat
shrinked to the (brown) wire which returns to the ignition switch.
From the ignition switch I have a purple wire (named starter sol) routed and
landed on the "S" terminal of the starter.
I have removed the dash mounted ignition switch and verified the wires as they
are named, on the correct spade lugs. Also I have removed the altenator and
had it tested at the shop that originally did the rebuild and it tested out OK.

What am I missing here? Possible grounding issue? I did buy the car in the
current condition thinking it may have been an easy fix with a new/rebuilt altenator
but after replacing the original I'm still experiencing the problem.

Thanks in advance!
Dave

"the "BAT" connector of the HEI for a constant 12 volt supply."

I think your problem is here. Check the terminal you used to power the HEI. You may have picked up a BAT terminal and not an IGN terminal. Check to see if the fuseblock terminal only has 12 volts in START and RUN and not in OFF.

I thought this might be the problem earlier but I ran through the fuse block, finding two different open posts, both marked ACC. When checking the posts with a fluke meter one is hot with the battery voltage and the other is energized with the key in the on position only. I've tried the jumper wire from both postions with the same results?? I was under the impression that the HEI is looking for a constant 12volt supply since the altenator is responsible for shutting the motor off. Is this correct?
I may have more than one problem to deal with. I'm going into work tonight so tomorrow when I return home I've decided to remove the ignition switch from the dash and "ohm" out the key switch positions.
I did drive the car today and found when the light switch is on the blinkers do not work and the "amp" guage drops from 14 to ~10.
I think grounding may be an issue also.

Thanks.

"When checking the posts with a fluke meter one is hot with the battery voltage and the other is energized with the key in the on position only. I've tried the jumper wire from both postions with the same results??"

The one where it is energized in the START and RUN positions is the correct one. If it remains high, with the engine running, there is another problem to fix, but this is where most everyone ties it to.

"I was under the impression that the HEI is looking for a constant 12volt supply since the altenator is responsible for shutting the motor off. Is this correct?"

No on both items. HEI needs a switched 12 volts. What turns the engine off is removing
the 12 volts from the HEI. Alternator is part of the charging circuit. A car can run for quite a while with a dead alternator and a very good battery.

Thanks John. I'll make the corrections you suggested then go from there. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Dave.