Guy's just wanted to drop a note on these that I just installed. The history is, I pulled the cross brace on my 67 convertable to install the AT exhaust and descided to use subframe connectors instead of lowering the cross brace.

What a difference it has made in the handling amd ride. If you own a convertable three things you really need and may not know are, 1. larger sway bar, 2. multi-leaf springs, and 3. subframe connectors.

BTW I used the Comp Engineering ones and notched them to fit, then box welded them. They are the bolt in kind, I bolted the back and front then welded the front in.

Amen! I've done all three to mine. My connectors are Global West's so I still have my x brace, but the effect is the same. Like a whole new car.

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68 Camaro ragtop, original 327, angle plug Camel humps, 202's, Performer, Holley 650 double pumper, Doug Thorley headers, 3-speed Saginaw, 3.08 posi, subframe connectors, Addco sway bar

http://hobbystage.net/camaro/cjkaram/

I can't find those connectors on Global's website. Do you have any info on them? Cost?

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-Randy
Cars:
<A HREF="http://www.camaroclubkc.com/rs1968ss.htm" TARGET=_blank>68 RS/SS BB ragtop
</A>RWHP: 329.4 RWTQ: 398.9
63 Nova II ragtop (http://home.swbell.net/paxtonr/nova.htm)
Club:
Camaro Club of Kansas City (http://camaroclubkc.com)

http://www.globalwest.net/

Last I checked they did not have any information about the convertible connectors on their web site but if you call them you can order them.

If I remember correctly they were around $225. Pricey but I did not have to cut my floor.

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69 RS Convertible Camaro, 350/350. Orignal red with black top and interior.
http://www.ragersworld.com/

Thanks. I'll give them a call. Would they interfere with Cal-Tracs? I am thinking about adding them as well.

------------------
-Randy
Cars:
<A HREF="http://www.camaroclubkc.com/rs1968ss.htm" TARGET=_blank>68 RS/SS BB ragtop
</A>RWHP: 329.4 RWTQ: 398.9
63 Nova II ragtop (http://home.swbell.net/paxtonr/nova.htm)
Club:
Camaro Club of Kansas City (http://camaroclubkc.com)

Rick,

I understand multileaf springs create a harsher ride than other alternatives. Are you recommending anything other than monoleafs, or do you like multileafs over all others? http://www.camaros.net/forum/confused.gif

Yes I have the 5 leafs and the ride is kind of harsh but still acceptable. If I had it to do again I would use the three leaf springs. I had monoleafs before and they bottom'd out on every bump, also the tended to hop with hard accelleration. I think the stiffer monosprings might be ok but I've heard they don't do much for the wheel hop.

If you get the factory replacements springs for the monoleafs, they'll give you three- leaf springs.

That's what I had done and the ride is not too harsh. Sort of the middle ground...

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68 Camaro ragtop, original 327, angle plug Camel humps, 202's, Performer, Holley 650 double pumper, Doug Thorley headers, 3-speed Saginaw, 3.08 posi, subframe connectors, Addco sway bar

http://hobbystage.net/camaro/cjkaram/

Are the convert-sub frame connectors any different from the coupe connectors?

Is there any agreement as to what the favorite sub frame connector is,

- Bolt in?

- Cut and weld in?

Something I've been wondering about. What about a bolt in subframe connector that has a mid flange, or any flange, that gets welded to the floor pan? Something less drastic than cuting the floor up yet provides a three place tie in on the connector vs. front and back.

What do you think? Is there such a thing?

Comments?

Rick O'Loughlin

The coupe connectors will not fit on a convert (without modification) due to the convert's floor bracing. Weld-in's are generally preferred.

------------------
-Randy
Cars:
<A HREF="http://www.camaroclubkc.com/rs1968ss.htm" TARGET=_blank>68 RS/SS BB ragtop
</A>RWHP: 329.4 RWTQ: 398.9
63 Nova II ragtop (http://home.swbell.net/paxtonr/nova.htm)
Club:
Camaro Club of Kansas City (http://camaroclubkc.com)

I agree. I would think that the weld-ins would be better. I'm looking to see if there is a happy medium between the two. Bolt-ins are easy, weld-ins provide more support. What about a bolt-in that has a couple of tabs that get welded?

This is a huge difference between cutting the floor boards to weld in the DS&E type verses bolts front and back.

What do you think? Input?

I guess it would be just as easy to attach "U" or "L" brackets running from the side of the sub frame connector up to the floor board. Understand, for a novice, it would be easy to tack weld these in.

Rick O

Do not cut your floor. There are suframe connectors made for converts, some of the above post talk about them. I got the CE ones and had to notch them to fit. That is a good idea about welding them to the floor I may do that. I know notching them weakens them but I think it's better than nothing. From the ride I know this is true.

As far as bolt in vs weld in I think the bolt in are better, but I bolted the back and welded the front. This is strickly because I'm a novice welder and this was well within my abilities.

Rick, how much did you have to notch those CE's? Is it only one spot? I've been thinking about the same thing. I was wondering if instead of notching and removing that piece altogether, what if you bent the notched piece out 90* and used that flange to either bolt or weld onto the K brace it has been notched to get around. I thougt maybe if the K brace is thick enough you could drill and tap for a couple of bolts through each flange. It would be bolted on each end and in the middle and would be easy to remove. (I don't weld at all yet)

my CE bolt-ins required no modification. It might have something to do with the body bushings?

Boodle, you don't have a ragtop right? That's what requires the mods.

I have the DS&E weld-in SFC's in my 69 convertible and I love them. It was a big install and did require cutting the floor but it was definitely worth it. The car has a firm ride with very little (and I mean a very little) body flex. I would do it again in a minute. There are some pics of the installation on Tony Huntimers website along with some pics of the rest of the build-up. Hopefully there will soon be some pics of the LT-1 stroker that we are building. Right Tony?
Click on the link and scroll down to the pics of bobs 69 convert.
bob
http://www.racehome.com/piclink.htm


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69mscle (http://www.pro-touring.com/featured_cars/Camaro/1969_Camaro/Robert_Spears_69_Camaro/right_front.JPG)

[This message has been edited by bspears (edited 05-24-2002).]

[This message has been edited by bspears (edited 05-24-2002).]

[This message has been edited by bspears (edited 05-24-2002).]

Winch, I had to notch them about 3/4 in. in the back and about 1/2 in. in the front. I thought about cutting them close enough to weld then to the floor but it requires more precision than I am capable of. I'm glad I didn't because when I got the first one to fit I then made the other one the same and it turned out to be about 1/8 in too small of a notch. I guess my car is just not perfect from the factory.

As far as cutting and bending them to bolt on, I don't think it would be possible based on the shape of the notch and thickness of the Material. However I do like the idea of welding some tabs on the connectors and then welding them to the cross brace.

One thing I would like to reemphisize is, if someone is thinking of doing this, be sure to box weld the connectors where you made the notch. You are giving up some of the srength by notching them, also creating a stress concentration, but by box welding them you can help with some of this. We'll see over time how much of a stress concentration this creates