As mentioned in my previous post, my regulator went bad and I installed a new one.
After a local mechanic did a reading and me cleaning wires, I got the reading up to 13.94 no load and 13.65 with a load.
Unfortuanately, my alt meter is disconnected, so today I installed an AutoMeter brand Voltage guage.
Here is what I notice,
When I turn the key on, it goes to 12, when I start it it goes to 14, when I turn on the lights, radio, etc it drops to a little under 14.
Here is my concern
When I race the engine, it the dash lights flicker and the needle jumps to 15 and sometimes 16 for a few seconds and then drops back to 14. If I hold the accelerator to around 2200 rpms, the needle jumps back and forth between the 16 and 14. But when idling at 1000 rpms, it stays a constant 14
Any ideas ?

The old style regulators had a set of points in them to switch between low rpm and high rpm. The flickering you're seeing is the regulator switching between the two. J.C.Whitney sells a solid state regulator that replaces the old points style without changing the wiring for $9.99 plus shipping. My advice, get one.

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'69 RS Camaro
355 5-speed 4.11

Maybe it's the regulator.
Great suggestion on the JCW unit, but you can get them from the chain auto stores and save the shipping and waiting hassles.

Thanks, but I should have mentioned that the regulator that was on there was a solid state one that was very expensive. I replaced it with the identical one. ITs a Blue Streak made by Standard Motor, it cost $50.00
I opted for this one because it has a fuse mounted to the case which will blow saving the regulator or alt during a malfunction
So, I dont think the posting about it changing during high and low rpms applies or does it based on the above.
Thanks again

The regulator (stock or solid-state) is still just a switching device; the stock one is mechanical (relays and points), and the solid-state one is electronic - both types switch constantly.

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JohnZ
CRG
'69 Z28 Fathom Green

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JohnZ:
The regulator (stock or solid-state) is still just a switching device; the stock one is mechanical (relays and points), and the solid-state one is electronic - both types switch constantly.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The difference being that a mechanical regulator switches at low frequency (such as a few hundred hertz) while the solid state regulator switches at high frequency (thousands of herts). The result is fewer voltage fluctuations under varying loads. Of course if the alternater isn't spinning fast enough to cope with the load, the regulator won't be able to do much about it.

-dnult