While rebuilding the rear suspension on my 69, I pulled the gas tank off. Since I have it off, I would like to clean off the nasty undercoating that is all over the outside. Problem is that I can't get it off because it's so thick. Any suggestions? Would a radiator repair shop be able to hot tank it to get the crap off? I thought about buying a new tank but there is nothing wrong with this one. No dents, holes, or rust, just a bunch of nasty undercoating.

If I can get this one cleaned, any suggestions on what to use to refinish it?

It can be hot tanked. The undercoating is petroleum based. Paint thinner can soften and remove it. If you can get the undercoating off and the tank isn't too discolored, you can clear coat it. Good Luck

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69 SS, 350, 4 Speed
75 400, 4 Speed
93 Z28, 6 Speed

Before taking it somewhere, try using one of those heat guns that takes paint off of stuff, I think one is made by Wagner. Get it at any hardware store. That is what I'm using on my wheel wells and it is working pretty good.

Heat it up until soft and then use a putty knife to scrape it. Then try some laquer thinner to clean it up.

Be careful with heat around gas tanks though. Still might be some in there that might make it go boom.

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1967 RS 327 M3
2001 Black Z28 convertible

I just called a couple radiator repair shops and both told me that hot tanking will not cut through the undercoating. Looks like it's going to take some elbow grease to get the job done.

Pep boys sells a stripper called Aircraft stripper or something like that. It's a brush on jel. Works well and isn't overly messy if you work it a section at a time. Get some good gloves, several widths of scrapers and some old tarps that you can throw away when done with them...

Heat and flames are very dangerous around an empty gas tank, fumes are what cause explosions... I know the poster above said use caution with heat!! It needs to be said over and over!!!

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...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/ww.jpg), the '96 (http://www.camaroslimited.com/graphics/memcars/96ss.jpg) our local club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"
and the "daily driver" (http://chevelles.com/showroom/DjD/dsc00016.jpg)

ive used aircraft stripper. it works excellent. the KEY is, good gloves and ventilation. this stuff is nasty.

Ok listen up and open the garage windows. Go get about three gallons of Diesel fuel. Put the diesel fuel into a spray bottle and cover the area that you want the undercoating removed from. Soak the snot out of it, and let stand over night. Be patient and please be careful. Althought the flash point is higher it's not worth taking chances so do it out side if possible. After a day the diesel fuel will soften up the coating so you can literally scrap it off like butter. You may have to soak the crap out of it but trust me it works. My bottom of my coupe was undercoated from front to back. I work a month on it and the only thing that sped up the entire process was this stuff. Warning !! it does smell so as I said take it outdooors and wear some old crappy clothes. Try it, I think you will be suprised..Good luck and be careful...

Wacky

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1969 (http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/wacky) Fully Papered and Documented Coupe.

I just cleaned a new subframe and my suspension parts. First I used Gunk spray liquid degreaser. It smelled like a large percentage of it was diesel. It did a so so job, but did cut the worst part of the grease. Perhaps straight Deisel will work better. Oven cleaner worked better, but still wasn't up the the chore with the undercoating. (Are those gas tanks aluminum or steel? If they're aluminum, I'm not sure what oven cleaner will do). Propane torque on inner fenders was very slow and cumberson...an even worse idea on a gas tank. I do want to try the heat gun approach. Make sure to get a scraper with a slightly dulled edge so you don't gouge your tank all over. I'll practice on the front fenders and then apply the same technique to the tank. Let us know what works best for you Indy. Then I'll know what to do.

Merry Christmas...don't drink and drive.

-dnult

I vote to just buy a new fuel tank!

I recently bought a new one for my 69 Nova from Spectra Premium. It looks perfect compared to my nearly 30 year old stocker with paint and dents. The insided isn't much prettier either-debris and rust!

The new tank cost ~$250 delivered with new straps. It looks very, very similar to the original.

http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

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1969 Nova SS 350
406/M20/3.55
13.63 at 105

I used a cheap can of "Red Devel" gel paint remover. Slopped it on leave it work awhile, turns the undercoating to goo and you can scrap it right off. One more coat and you'll be amazed at how well it will clean up.

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<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/bh3chevy/Bobs_All_Chevy.html" TARGET=_blank>69 X22 Camaro
68 Camaro
72 Nova SS
82 Corvette
</A>

These are some great ideas. I can't wait until the next time I have to clean/degoo something.
http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

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68 Coupe, 350 4-speed
Jim's Camaro Corner (http://www.personal.psu.edu/jxu109/)

Indy Z11 mail me. If interested I have a brand new NOS tank I will sell you reasonably.

Wacky

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1969 (http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/wacky) Fully Papered and Documented Coupe.

One word of CAUTION DON'T GO ANYWHERE NEAR THAT TANK WITH AN OPEN FLAME.

I used Bix tough job (name?) paint stripper to clean mine. Worked like a charm. You can get it in aerosol spray , pump spray or brush on at most hardware/ paint stores. This is terrible smelling stuff so don’t use it in the garage with the doors and windows shut and be sure to wear gloves. I used a metal scraper and a scotch brite pad since I planned to repaint my tank anyway. I would keep open flames and concentrated sources of heat away from a gas tank…

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See my '68 RS/ZZ4 (http://www.100megsfree.com/choptop/camaro.html)

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by L48M20:
I vote to just buy a new fuel tank!

I recently bought a new one for my 69 Nova from Spectra Premium. It looks perfect compared to my nearly 30 year old stocker with paint and dents. The insided isn't much prettier either-debris and rust!

The new tank cost ~$250 delivered with new straps. It looks very, very similar to the original.

http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

L48M20

CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE SPECTRA IS LOCATED, I NEED A NEW TANK ALSO
THANKS



[This message has been edited by cottonpicker14 (edited 12-25-2002).]

I bought mine from Camaro Central for about 130.00

$130 is pretty inexpensive!
www.spectrapremium.com (http://www.spectrapremium.com) is where I looked up a few phone numbers to call. I called two or three distributors near where I live and got vastly different prices. Wasn't sure if someone was giving me wholesale or what and I even quiered them.

Basically, it seems each distributor sets there own price (over $100 different than another), but anyway.

I read about them in a magazine and said the tanks were very high quality and come with the filler neck which not all do-so may ask for a Camaro.

Good Luck

http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

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1969 Nova SS 350
406/M20/3.55
13.63 at 105

Yep 130.00 and identical to the new one I crushed (Don't Ask) from GM. The one from GM was like 220.00

Since we are on the subject of price, Rick's has repro tanks for $119. 69 tanks include the filler neck, locking ring and gasket. Not too bad. The more I look at my old tank the more I hate thinking about trying to clean it up.

I used Kerosene and a Gunk type of cleaner that is made to be added to Kerosene (you can get this at your Auto parts store) It cuts it pretty quick. My tank was still sort of stained and ugly looking, but otherwise perfect, so I sprayed it with Seymore Stainless steel spray paint. It turned out really nice. I would recommend changing your sending unit (even if it still worked before, you don't want to be yanking the thing out again).

John

I bought my tank from Rick's and it is an exact duplicate of the one I just took out. With the savings I went ahead and bought a new sending unit and straps with anti squeak rubber inserts to go with it still came out cheaper than 99% of the other camaro retailers.

I bought my tank from Rick's and it is an exact duplicate of the one I just took out. With the savings I went ahead and bought a new sending unit and straps with anti squeak rubber inserts to go with it still came out cheaper than 99% of the other camaro retailers.

One important point most of these posters are overlooking is you cant SCRAPE the gas tank surface and expect it too look restored, original, or whatever you want to call the appearance. These gas tanks were fabricated from sheet FLAT steel that had already been galvanized. The two halves were pressed and then they were welded together at the SEAM. If you scrape,scratch or other cosmetically hurt the galvanized finish, there is no way to accurately redo it.....Then you get down to a situation where your painting the tank with "SOMETHING" to resemble the galvanized look.....I would use either the diesel or kerosene and soak cheesecloth to hold diesel onto surface.....then use "rags" or maybe gray scotchbrite to remove residue......anything more abrasive will hurt the galvanizing......mny .02 Chuck S/Seattle

The aftermarket tanks (Spectra Premium) use a thinner metal and the galvanizing is not as good. Nice tank though,(great for a show car). The GM tank weighs more and the galvanizing is better. I put a aftermarket tank in my car because It won't see another winter, and It was way cheaper. Any stripper or caustic type chemicals will discolor the galvanizing. Especially a hot tank. Use the Diesel fuel idea or I would suggest Varsol, and use the same spray and soak method mentioned above. Patience, patience.
Jim

[This message has been edited by GMJim (edited 12-30-2002).]

I too bought a repro tank, sending unit and straps. I used POR15 marine clean, AP120 and then PC Glisten ( clear coat ) and it looks new 2 years later.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).

I just wanted to second the post about ventilation!!

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69 convertible
LT1 4L60E

So should a brand new repro tank be clear coated? Is the galvanizing on these things poor leading to fast surface rusting?