Does anyone know where to get the clips that hold the fuses? I'd like to use new one's rather than used from a donor. Thanks.

Yank a fuse block out of something at the junkyard.
Otherwise, you can get that type of thing at an electrical supplier.
Try this link..... http://www.autobodysupplies.com/Section6-Electrical.pdf
Look at Page 200, Item 77-4699. The only problem is that they come in packs of 100 units!



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Joe
1969 Wallet Crusher
- HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com

HwyStar's Garage! (http://www.geocities.com/hwystarjoe/index.html)

Try these guys:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=5652&BQ=jcw2

He's got a much better resource than I showed. I just never think of JC Whitney. Thanks Kgaffney

[This message has been edited by HwyStarJoe (edited 01-08-2003).]

Try page 11 in their online catalog.
www.alliedelec.com (http://www.alliedelec.com)
Under Online Catalog go to Section Indices and click on Section 1. Fuse clips - 11
The ones in JC Whitney are for adding circuits to existing fuseholders.
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'69 RS Camaro
355 5-speed 4.11

[This message has been edited by 1 2RUN (edited 01-08-2003).]

[This message has been edited by 1 2RUN (edited 01-08-2003).]

Thanks kgaffney & hwy star joe. I looked at jcwhitney but they weren't the type that inserts into the fuse block. I checked auto body supplies .com and #77-4699 is about the closest I've seen. I'm wondering if it has the retainer ears to keep it in the fuse block once it's inserted. I'll let you know. Thanks again Todd

Thanks 1 2 run. I checked and they are close but they don't seem to have the ears that snap them into place which keeps them from being pushed backwards when you try to insert the fuse. Thanks. Todd

Thanks 1 2 run. I checked and they are close but they don't seem to have the ears that snap them into place which keeps them from being pushed backwards when you try to insert the fuse. Thanks. Todd

That's why I say to just yank a block out of an older vehicle that uses the glass type fuses and you'll have a bunch of them. Clean them up and yer all set.

Hi, I see you are in Fresno.
I just recently bead blasted and zinc plated mine. You really have to be careful removing some of those clips that have the extra accessory spade off to the side. Those clips right at the spade have a tendency to break the plastic detent hole out of the fuse block if they aren't extracted straight. I busted a couple chunks of plastic out on my first try and also made the mistake of cleaning the plastic with 409. The 409 took the white lettering right off the front of the fuse block. I ended up getting another hacked up wire harness on eBay, just to get another fuse block.
I also taped off the wire harness connectors, put the whole wire harness in a hefty bag and bead blasted the wire females. Then, I held the wires over my plating kit and plated the terminals one-by-one with them still connected to the wires. A very tedious project to say the least.
If you think you will ever make it over to San Luis Obispo in the near future, I can warm up my little zinc plating kit and plate the connectors for you. I have a full set of pictures of the fuse block restore on my hard drive at home too if you lose track of the placement of the wires.
scottmoo@surfari.net

[This message has been edited by bonecrusher67conv (edited 01-08-2003).]

Thanks bonecrusher. That's a tempting offer. I just don't want to remove the central nervous system right now. The car runs great, I just want to do a little preventative maintenance. I guess it's off to the wrecking yard with some wire cutters. Todd

Hey Bonecrusher,
Do you have one of those little kits from Eastwoods? Have you used it for larger "cad plated" parts? How close do they look to silver cad?
Thanks,
Gary

It's the CopyCad plating kit from caswellplating.com
It uses a zinc anode plate, sort of similar to the cacrificial anode metal piece that might be found on a boat hull.
If you buy Caswell's cheapest kit, they send you the instruction book that is pretty neat and in depth that covers their chrome plating instructions also (like 100 pages spiral bound).

The size of the object plated is limited by the size of the power source. My 2 year old kit had a small AC transformer about the same size that I have for my computer speakers, but it was like on 2 volts DC output and that limits you to plating 16 square inches at a time. That is only a 2"x4" piece on both sides. You definitely need to start each session with a piece of scrap metal to scavenge the extra impurities that might be in the reuseable solution, because the first piece turns out grayish. Then after adding the provided clarifier solution, on the second or third batch the parts are a very bright silver color. Usually, by the 5th or 6th batch if additional clarifier isn't added, the plating starts to get dull again and grayish.
The plating process really requires the solution to be kept at about 120+ degrees F or the process slows down dramatically. I have to fool my fish tank heater to keep it heating beyond its internal thermostat settings.
The manual says you can by your own variable rectifier unit if you need to plate bigger parts if their supplied transformer is too small.

[This message has been edited by bonecrusher67conv (edited 01-11-2003).]

Here is how the fuse clips look after plating: http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/fuseclip.jpg

bonecrusher, did you get the cad-copy/Zinc kit. They have one for about $ 100. Do you get enough supplies to do everything you need to do on your car?

ps. pics look great.

Bonecrusher they look unbelievable! You must have one of the nicest looking fuse panels around. Maybe I will visit the beach soon. Todd

Unreal,
I got the small 1 gallon kit of CopyCad/zinc for $100, plus the 2 gallon kit for blackener. After blackening, I'm also dipping the hardware in a waterbased shelac that comes with the Eastwood kit. I bought that Eastwood blackening kit 2 years ago and everything that I blacked and sealed on my daily driver like fender SEM bolts are rusting already where the socket rubbed and also the threads. I definitely feel that you need to plate the bolts before blackening or paint the hardware instead, after the poor weathering on my daily driver. That is not to say that the bolts won't look good initially with the Eastwood blackening kit, as they looked great for a few months. When I get my convertible done I will definitely be taking off the front clip of my hardtop to plate those bolts instead and also blast and repaint my core support. My hardtop's core support was blasted down to bare metal and repainted with two coats from a rattle can. That was a mistake as a slight ting of surface rust is coming through after 18 months. The core support will get reblasted then get Epoxy primed twice and then two coats of Underhood black.

My estimate is there is definitely not enough extra clarifying solution (4oz), so I will be reordering 8 more ounces of that. Plus, I'll need another zinc anode or two to finish everything that I want to do on just the one car.
I'm leaning on setting up a second 1 gal system of the same CopyCad with the dicromate crystals instead for doing some small brackets and other bolts.

Todd thanks for the compliment. I've got almost 20 hours of labor in the underdash harness alone. I also added the wiring for console gauges, relocated the idiot light wires per the add-on wire kit in that harness before rewrapping it. I noticed that someone else in another thread has asked for the exact wire relocating for the console setup, but it is a tedious project that can't be answered in a few brief sentences.
As for the underdash harness, I took every spade out of every plastic clip and also wire brushed the spades with my dremel tool. I also wiped down each wire with the non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean crude off the wires. I wanted to get the most difficult harness done while I had the most energy. Right now I'm redoing my power window wire harness with the dremel, brake cleaner, wire brush, and will be rewrapping with the correct fabric impregnated tape. Power windows use the same type of tape as the rear wire harness and not the vinyl tape like the underhood harnesses. After that, pretty soon I'll be redoing my RS headlight and engine harnesses. No rest for the wicked!