Basically, I've ruined 2nd gear in my tranny. It's time to do a rebuild. I drive the car everywhere including to the track once or twice or more a week. I see all these expensive racing rebuild kits and would like to know if it's worth the extra cash or should I just buy the NAPA rebuild kit and be done with it? The car runs 11.40's. Keep in mind that this is a street car, not just a race car.

IMHO, no, the race kits aren't necessary. For a street vehicle, a standard rebuild kit is more than enough. There are better grades of clutch material out there, but if you're a do-it-yourselfer, I wouldn't go over-board on the kit. If it doesn't have one already, install a Trans-go shift kit. Inspect your hard parts for cracks and wear and replace as needed. In particular, inspect the forward and direct drum assemblies where the sealing rings on the pump body ride. The rings wear into the clutch drums eventually. If so, it will be hard to get those to seal and slipping can result. Be sure to flush your lines and converter or replace the converter. -dnult

Some of the cheapo kits have frictions that are not too nice. It is not much to buy a good kit, even the BTE race kits I have are only $100. Use Teflon rings for better life. Closely inspect the rear band and the reaction carrier it rides on, as they are wear-prone as is the front pump. Good bands are only $25, and refinished carriers are $75. Pumps can be purchased too. Also it is time to look for a good sprag/early drum setup, or install one from a 4L80 trans along with the Spiroloc to retain the sprag. I have had great results with the TCI Trans Scat shift kits as well, either those or Trans Go are the only two I would suggest.

It already has some sort of manual valve body shift kit, already. I'm not sure of the brand or anything even though I've had it apart twice for cleaning.

I have a "problem" using BTE parts. I broke a tooth off of a brand new SFI approved flexplate. It was my fault for not checking the clearance and shimming the starter properly before attempting to start the car, but I've NEVER broken off a tooth on even the cheapest flexplates.

I am sure no matter what trans company a person has had positive results with that there will always be at least a few who felt they were hosed or had problems. I guess the only thing I don't understand is you admit you never did check clearances, so why is the BTE part at fault? I have plenty of 6 and 7 second (1/4 mile) cars running BTE stuff, same with TCI and JW. I have run in the 6's @ 200+ myself on all TCI parts. I happen to prefer some items from each company for price and quality. You cannot beat the BTE prices on race overhaul kits!