Ok, I gave up on the last thread because so many of the posts were useless flames. Right now, I am only concerned about the tranny, I don't need to know about any kits. I will decide that for myself.

Will I have any complaints if I go with a Viper T56? Are there any weird quirks about it, any major problems, or just things you don't like? Is there anyone that offers an F-body T56 that can handle power like the Viper's, or atleast a T56 that has a shifter location like the F-Body T56, but can handle loads of power? I would like to go with a straight shifter, so that is why I am considering a F-Body shifter location.

As for the clutch, would you guys recommend a hydraulic throwout bearing, or a hydraulically actuated release fork? I want to go the hydro route, but obviously want the more reliable one.

Thanks for your help, and please try and stay on topic with this one!
-Jason

Well, Let me get some info from you, and I can help you make a better choice.
What year is the engine block?
How much HP do you plan on putting through the T56?
Will you ever run slicks at the track?
Is your car an auto or stick at current?
To answer your questions:
The viper T56 from D&D is solid. You may have a slight fitment issues right by the bellhousing/adaoter plate getting in the way of the tunnel by the firewall. Some people have clearance issues there, some don't. Just something to be aware of.
There are many different vendors that can upgrade the T56 internals. Some offer kits for the do-it-yourselfer, and other offer full trannys. This is where you get to decide on how much $$ you want to spend.
I look at it like this:
New D&D Viper T56- $2600
New LT1 style T56- $2100
Upgrade to LT1 style T56- $340-$4000
There are a bunch of things you can do to a T56 to make it stronger. The steel 3-4 shift fork, carbon blocker rings, and better syncros are just a few. Cryo treated internals, harder input/output shafts, ect..
The drawback to the LT1 style T56 is you must use a hydraulic activated clutch fork, a 153 tooth flywheel, and an LT1 style pull off clutch. If you have a 1pc rear main seal on your engine, you can go ahead and use the factory LT1 setup with an upgraded clutch. It can get expensive for the 2pc rear main seal and bib block users. The D&D uses factory linkage, and if you already have a 4spd, you are ahead of the game. You don't need to replace any of it (unless it is worn out.)
Shifter location- There is about 3-5 inches of differences from the viper all the way to the LS1 style of T56. I don't think it will make too much difference in the end, unless you are dead set on having the 4spd hole be re-used.
As far as hydraulic recommendation-
If you can swing the hydraulic throw out, you will have more options. The LT1 style is not a bad setup at all, but the flywheel can get expensive really quick.
I would recommend-
LS1 style T56 (used, try Ebay)
Upgraded internals, rebuild
ATS or McLeod adapter plate
ATS or client fabbed hydraulic throw out bearing
ATS, Weir, or Keisler crossmember
McLeod flywheel, clutch, pressure plate.
One thing you did not specify is speedo. The Keisler, and D&D version use he old style mechanical cable version, while the LT1/LS1 T56 use a VSS that can work with most Autometer, VDO and Dakota Digital electronic speedos. There are also converter boxes that take the electric VSS signal and convert it to a motor driven cable speedo. There are 4-7 ways to go about this swap, with most people having a different way or opinion on completing it.
Here are a list of the T56 vendors:
American Touring Specialties
Weir Hot Rod products
D&D performance
McLeod
Keisler
Let us know what other info you need.
Tyler

Originally posted by Uncle Caleetro:
Ok, I gave up on the last thread because so many of the posts were useless flames. Right now, I am only concerned about the tranny, I don't need to know about any kits. I will decide that for myself.

Will I have any complaints if I go with a Viper T56? Are there any weird quirks about it, any major problems, or just things you don't like? Is there anyone that offers an F-body T56 that can handle power like the Viper's, or atleast a T56 that has a shifter location like the F-Body T56, but can handle loads of power? I would like to go with a straight shifter, so that is why I am considering a F-Body shifter location.

As for the clutch, would you guys recommend a hydraulic throwout bearing, or a hydraulically actuated release fork? I want to go the hydro route, but obviously want the more reliable one.

Thanks for your help, and please try and stay on topic with this one!
-Jason By your own statements, you don't need the Viper tranny for two reasons. 1st, you want the shifter further back, with a straight stick, and second you said you don't need the 650HP capacity. These two requirements point toward a used 4th gen Camaro or Firebird T56. They can handle quite a bit of power, esp if you upgrade them with steel shift forks and carbon fiber blockers.
While there was some confusion due to my explaining that the ATS parts do not fit my needs (I have a BB with 168 tooth fw, and I don't want to change the location of the shifter) they seem to fit yours.
I thnk that if I was in your shoes, I'd check ebay and local salvage yards for a LT1 t56, then talk to Tyler (ATS) for the hyraulics and crossmember. Unless you have a plasma cutter, welder and heavy duty tubing bender, you'd have a hard time beating his price on the crossmember and clutch MC adaptor plate.

Hope this helps.

It's a Chevy small block, about a 1970. The Camaro was originally a four speed car, but I put a new floor in, and no hole has been cut yet, so that doesn't really matter. I would rather not modify a transmission, because I don't trust myself with major tranny work, and I don't know how expensive it might be to have someone else do it.

I plan on having up to 450 HP in the car, and it will probably only be at the strip once, to see what it can do. I will be messing around on the street some, but not really hardcore drag racing.

I can go either way on the speedo, because I am buying a new one anyways, and have not decided yet.

What do you mean "if you can swing the hydraulic throw out, you will have mor options"? Do you just mean cost-wise? I think I am going to go that route. Also, what are you referring to when you said "The LT1 style is not a bad setup at all, but the flywheel can get expensive really quick"?

I am basically building this car to be exactly mine, so shifter location is very important, because I want it to be as comfortable as possible. If I go with the Viper T56, and find that I do need a curve-back handle to make it comfortable, is this type of handle detrimental to shift feel over a straight stick?

Thanks for the help!
-Jason

Heretic-

I was looking into the Viper because I want to have that insurance in case I end up doing nirtous or something else. It is the same reason I am doing a solid bottom end on my motor.

But, I am now leaning more towards an LT1/LS1 tranny for reasons of ****er location, only I am still confused about the clutch and throw out bearing situation. What is different with the clutch setup and TOB with an F-Body tranny over the Viper T56? Thanks.

Well, this clears up a bunch.
The flywheel for an LT1 setup on a 2pc rear main is about $360 vs the stock LT1 flywheel at $170.
If you never plan on running a slick, and 450 hp is your daily HP level, you can go with a stock T56 and never have an issue.
If you are going for a PT car, I recommend the electronic speedo.
What I meant on the 'if you can swing the hydraulic T.O.' comment was this-
The D&D viper T56 does not come with any hydraulics, nor would it if you used a McLeod modular bellhousing. The LS1 style T56 is the only one that uses a hydraulic T.O. from the factory. I also have a way to adapt the LS1 hydraulics to the stock pedal, and firewall. All other options you will need to fab yourself, and it can get expensive.
The shifters on T56 are internal rail, so as long as you have a good base (i used Pro 5.0) the actual stick handle won't matter at all.
Based on the criteria you have listed, my recomendation is as follows:
New or Used LT1 or LS1 T56
re-build kit with upgrades
ATS style LT1 or LS1 install kit
The cost differences between the LS1 and LT1 will work out to be the same in the end.
Initially the LT1 setup requires the expensive flywheel, but the LS1 will require an adapter plate which is about the same.
The LS1 uses a 168 tooth flywheel, and the LT1 uses a 153 tooth. Both are hydraulicly shifted, one by a T.O., another by a fork.
In the end, which ever T56 you can get a better price on will be the deciding factor in which route to take.
Tyler

I will probably end up going with an LS1 T56 then, if it uses the hydraulic TO. Am I going to have any problems installing this in a '69 Camaro with a ~'70 SB?

I will probably use the Pro 5.0, and use one of the available kits for adapting the hydraulics to the stock pedal assembly. Will I be able to use a McLeod modular bellhousing with the LS1 T56? Is there anything else I should know about the LS1 T56? Thanks for all the help.
-Jason

No issues should be present when installing the Ls1 T56 to your block. You can use the McLeod adapter (ask Mjpell about this option) and go with my hydraulic setup for your pedals. I think you have most of it covered unless you need to know any other specifics.
Good luck with the swap.
Tyler