While still mid-resto on my 69, I need a driver until I get it done, so I've found a 67 about 1,000 miles away that I'm wanting to pick up.

I don't know if I should drive it, tow it or trailer it...

1. DRIVE: If I drive it home, that means I fly to pick it up = more costly. Also I'm a little hesitant on driving cross-country in a car I'm not familiar with. (been there, done that)

2. TRAILER: I think trailering it would be best, but my 233k mile truck needs tires and only has a bumper hitch. I could rent a trailer from U-haul. Truck gets poor fuel economy.

3. TOWING: The most preferred method. I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I'de like to use to pull it with a tow dolly. It's my most dependable vehicle and gets the best mileage.

Can a TH350 trans be towed in Neutral without a problem for 1,000 miles or do I need to drop the drive shaft?
Any issues with a Grand Cherokee towing a car of this weight? :confused:

(I prefer not to hire a PROFESSIONAL to pick up the car for me. Rates are higher than I'de like plus I'de like to SEE the car in person before I give the remainder of the money)

Remove the driveshaft or it will eat up the trans towing it that far. The only time lube circuit oil gets to the trans is if the engine is running and thus turning the front pump in the trans. You can pull the shaft and put a plug in there and tape it in place over the end of the trans, or shove an old yoke in and secure it in place to keep debris out.

I was prepared to tow a convert. I was looking at last weekend. I checked with local uhaul and they said that a car like first gen camaro with automatic can be towed on a dolly with rear tires up on the dolly and front wheels trailering with steering wheel in locked position straight ahead. If it was a longer car it might stick to close to the tow vehicle but they thought the camaro would dolly backwards. Check with your local uhaul guru on this, would save you a bunch of hassle.
graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks Click, that was exactly one of my questions for the U-haul guru.
I was concerened of the steering not locking or perhaps coming unlocked and was considering tying the wheel in place as an additional safety precaution.

Did you get the vert?

Nope passed on it. Its for sale on ebay now.
:eek:

In following up, I plan on using the tow-dolly and disconnect the driveshaft and plug the tranny like Oldani says, but in my seach for data, I found someone brought up the question, "does the 67 steering wheel lock?".

Can anyone with a 67 confirm whether the steering column "locks" or not?

Sixty-seven & 68 wheels do NOT lock. When flat towing my first race car, I placed two bolts through the floorboard at the rear of the hump, made a bracket, used two nuts, to hold up the end of the driveshaft after disconnecting the U-joint. The shaft does go forward 1 inch.

Never did hurt the d/shaft with the rear axle yolk.

Its not recomended to tow from the rear while useing the lock to keep the wheels straight... could break at any time <not fun>. As stated 67&68's don't lock. If you tow from the rear, be sure to use a good rope <not cloths line> to tie the wheel. I would use two to be safe... one to each seat braket?

Just the fact that it doesn't lock is enough for me to tow it from the front. Dropping the driveshaft and plugging the tranny spline is no big deal.

(I was just thinking it would be fun to take it off the dolly and drive it periodically.....like when the wife is awake). :D