Ok guys I have had my ening/trans out of the car 2 times now trying to fix this! tomorrow morning will be the 3rd time. The problem we are having is that the clutch fork gets smashed in to the firwall wiout any movement. I am using a brand new GM clutch fork and 11" center force clutch with the correct throwout bearing. I have bought the lakewood dowels and an adjustable pivit ball. My dad and I layed the bell on a bench then layed the block saver plate and tried to get it as close to 4.75 inches as we could. When we istalled the engine the fork has little movement to the firewall. We also found out that there is a bracket welded to the bell that is hitting the firewall. I think I got a bell for an early chevy (55-57). The second time to took it all out and installed a factory pivot ball that was already installed in the bell (used from ebay :rolleyes: ) The clutch fork was worse! what are my options here? I went from 1/2 inch of movement to no movement in the clutch fork at all! here are some pics of my bell and fork.

http://www.skafia.com/myPix/DCx-259149243.jpg

here is that bracket that is getting in the way, can I cut it off? if not my dad and I are going to try and find a new bellhousing at a few local shops.

http://www.skafia.com/myPix/DCx-816086976.jpg

I have no idea what to do. My next plan was going to be adjusting the pivot ball to its max length so I can have some kind of travel in my clutch fork.

[ 09-13-2004, 02:52 AM: Message edited by: MY FIRST 69 ]

The bracket on the side of the bellhousing can be cut off. The McLeod's come with it also. You may also need to cut a notch on the flange to fit the stock gas pedal linkage at the firewall.

On the GM fork that I have there appears to be more bend than yours. In the first picture, on the top of the fork, there is a "V" notch. On mine, at that point, there is an approx. 45* bend rearward. With the stock motor mounts (V8 327) and 4 3/4" to the top of the pivot (adjustable) it clears fine.

I cut an ear off the top of the fork. The pictures were taken with the stock ball in place. I have a picture of the lakewood ball. The nut is where we had it when the fork had little room. This is as much adjustment I can put on it.

http://www.skafia.com/myPix/DCx-772512029.jpg

I will try cutting that bracket off. Also the fork seems to be pointing down and it seems to be scraping the opening. Do I need to notch that out as well? The car doesnt have the front clip on so it is a breeze to take this thing in and out. I have stock v8 frame mounts and new motor mounts. I also have a lot of clearance on top of the bell housing I can stick my fingers between the bell and the firwall. If the ball is still too short can I get a threaded stud and a sleve to extend it out more? Iv also considered beating the hell out the the firwall for more room.

I'm only using the "V" notch as a referance point on your fork. You should not have to cut the fork.

Do you have the GM part number for the fork?

I got the fork from classic. It was a brand new GM package. I beveive the part number was 3892632. I also forgot to add that I am using a centerforce "self centering" TH bearing.

have you tried a tall throwout bearing? Chev used 2 of them, and any good parts counter guy will be able to get the right one for you.
i just ran into a similar problem on a 67 Chevelle i swapped a 454 into. the Hays flywheel i used was thinner than the small block flywheel, and it really screwed up the geometry of the clutch linkage. i was ready to try to put in an andjustable stud- then i remembered the different t/o bearing. ok- i just ran out to the shop and grabbed the box it came in- part #N1086. i think it was like $17 or so. it is and SKF branded part that i got from Bumper to Bumper, but i got the same number at NAPA, as well, but they didn't have it in stock at the time. i think it is actually for a 6 cylinder Chevelle or something goofy like that.

I went and got a new lakewood bell today. The one I am using is from ebay. The new one is way different, its all one piece. The old one is two piece and the bell is shaped different. I think I might of had an older one for a 55-57 chevy or the nova specific model.

CarlC by any chance do you have a pic of the notch you made in the bellhousing flange (to clear gas pedal linkage at firewall)?

I have 67, smallblock, Mcleod 8630,waiting for tko600.

I already cut off the extra plate (instructions say its for the tri five chevy)

I read your post and went to check my car(has original engine/trans/bellhousing at this time), It will definetely hit the flange when I install my new combo with blowbell.

Thanks, Ray

oops double post

ok its fixed now. I ended up using the new bell only cost me $430 :eek: oh well. I used the lakewood pivot ball extended to its max w/ lots of red lock tight. The engine/trans fell right in with no issues at all. I actually found the info on chevelles.com a member there said to extend the pivot ball to its max graemlins/thumbsup.gif

the taller throwout bearing would have done the same thing as the adjustable pivot. i would be a little bit concerned about having the stud all the way out like that.
just how much different is then new bellhousing compared to the old one you had? i thought all GM bellhousings had the clutch fork exit at the same spot- with a few exceptions like the Monza cable operated setup.

I really dont know what happened with this new bellhousing. The welded bracket was also on my new one but it no longer hit the firewall. I also have tons of room from my throtle arm. If you look in the top picture the clutch fork was rubbing on the bottom of the opening, It ended up centered on the new one. Im just glad it workds now. I also game the fire wall a few good smacks with the BFH :D

Here are the results! mind you this was with the same motor mounts and trans mount.

http://www.skafia.com/myPix/DCx-268202788.jpg

Look at the chip in the fire wall where the old bell housing was rubbing. That same bracket on the new bell is way lower. I think the fork exit was lower because it was centered in the opening, and it was really low and rubbing in the old one. I like the fact that I have a new block saver plate. Those of you running a lake wood did you bolt it all the way around? I didnt looks like a pain in the butt.

The top bolts for the block saver plate are a pain to install when the engine is in the car. I highly recommend installing them with the engine out of the car.

Sorry Ray, I do not have a pic.

Try installing the bell without the clutch and flywheel. This will make trial assembly easier so that you can cut the notch in the correct location. Use a floor jack to hold the engine up.

Thanks CarlC! I will do that before I pull the old motor out.

Ray

Yes I use all the bolts, it isn't bad to install them all. You are right about the adjustable pivot ball. Even at it's maximum adjustment it is still short of what you need to get the correct dimension especially if a block plate is used, but i wouldn't leave the plate out like some do. I think Lakewood need to change the design of the stud, but it'll never happen because while the dimension can't be achieved you can get it to work. Looks like you went with all new linkage, that's a good move. Looks good.

You need to get an adjustable pivot from Mcleod. It's much longer than the Lakewood unit, so long you have to cut off the excess after adjusting. It's also much beefier, the stud is a larger diameter and the ball is larger. BUT it is pricier, I think $31 from Summit.

Mcleod also has a nice T/O bearing that can be ajusted to three thicknesses. This item is also pricier than others.

Ray

Yeah the easiest way to instal the top bolts with the engine in is to keep the tranny mount off and tilt the engine back (make sure the distributor is removed). With the engine tilted use a universal socket or a universal joint on a small socket with a couple extensions. This has always worked for me! (use some loctite on these bolts)