I picked up a used 9 inch carrier/"pumpkin";
it was at a local wrecking yard, i did a
"you pull it" to save $50, well aqnyways it was super windy out today,and when i got the thing to my van, i noticed there is dust/dirt
all over the gears,bearings and everything. :(
It is a 10/35 gear set,and the bolts that hold the gear on are in an indented area, from what i can tell it is some kind of posi/locker.
the tag read 3L50 supposed to be 3.50,and 35/10 is 3.50 right/?
Anyways what do you all reccomend to use to rinse off the dirt. Kereosene? Mineral spirits?
LMK please
Thanks! graemlins/beers.gif
{next time i willl bring a trash bag with me to cover stuff up! graemlins/clonk.gif

get a couple cans of brake cleaner, and spray that sucker down. when it's clean, dump some gear oil all over everything and spin the yoke and listen/feel for any crunching or grinding noises.
i think the "3L50" tag decodes to 3.50 gears with a locker- hence, the letter L. or maybe just a regular posi.

yeah, brakleen

NON clorinated brakleen

Originally posted by chicane67:
NON clorinated brakleen Non,why NON, i have tried the non chlorinated before and it worked like, graemlins/clonk.gif graemlins/boring.gif
not too well, so i bought the red can,
that works good,

The 3L50 does mean 3.50 gears with the Traction Lock differential. This is a clutch type limited slip differential. The head of the ring gear bolts should be 5/8, where all other 9" Ford ring gear bolts have 3/4 heads. I have had good results from Gunk engine cleaner and brake cleaner. Chicane, why the non-clorinated brake cleaner? The clorinated cleaner has worked best for me. Is there someting in the clorinated cleaner that will cause problems?

here for big gear head, is some info about 9 inch
rears,that i found helpful,

http://www.dtcomponents.com/fordldd.htm

http://www.quickperformance.com/ninecase.htm

i took the unit to work,and used the parts washer machine,
now i shall use some brake kleen on it also.
graemlins/beers.gif

Thanks for the information.

Sorry for the delay in response.

Clorine is a good lubricant, but it is also corrosive. It tends to degrade the surface of copper, brass and other soft thrust or bearing surfaces. Not to mention that it is a hazardous material itself before it comes out of its container.

Here in California, the cost of disposal is alarming and has pretty much forced everyone away from it (with the exception of personal home use...but when you take it in to be re-cycled, the business you took it to takes the hit monitarly). I have tried every type of cleaner/snake oil etc.....that is on the market. The best still offered in California is NAPA's 4810, a non-clorinated brake cleaner. Their 4800 was even better, it was non-clorinated too, but they found something else in it that they wanted to ban it for.

When at Guldstrand, there were a couple of companies that had those susposed 'Super Lubricants'.......which would blow your mind that they actually do work, but what was not known at the time was the longevity problems associated with its use. They would literally introduce the product into various systems (engine, transmission, differential, etc) and then drain the oil out after being circulated in the system for a determined amount of time. They would then drive their Corvette's around Los Angles in their daily commutes, rush hour traffic and alike for days....... without oil present, except the residual from the oil being drained. Sure it worked........LOL

Now my point. The 'Super lube' guys, upon failure of said device, would teardown said device. Well, luckly enough we got the inside scoop. Most of those 'Super Lubes' had a very high concentration of clorine. Which I stated before is a good lubricant, but its use had not been tested in endurance testing that had any imperative data. Its corrosive nature destroys things over time. Nice bandaid......

Sure, Al Unser Sr. drove that Viper around the track for 8000000000000 miles (yeah, whatever).......but there was the limiting factor......no load. If I drove around a track with 25 other cars traveling at no more than 35 miles an hour (no real load), I could probally formulate something that would pass that kind of test. Sure it did exaclty what they said it did.......but a what cost to other components? You never heard about that did you? Huh! I wounder why...... :rolleyes:

They are simply a 'get rich quick' gimick. You sure dont see the comercials any more do you? The only good ones are that of the PTFE or Teflon veriety.

Well, clorinated brake clean can do the same thing to internal parts. Its works great on brake components......which is what it was formulated for. It softens up the copper found in brake pads, which is embedded into the rotor surface.....and attached to brake parts. Brake shops already pay the premimum for material waste due to the nature of caustics in brake dust. So, it doesnt hamper them from using it. Nor are they working on anything internal.

Just FYI. And I agree, the clorinated works great. But pay attention to what you use it on. ;)

Yea, being an Amsoil dealer I was aware of the clorine in Pro Long and other lubricants. I was also aware of the long trerm problems with it. I had not thought about it causing any problems with cleaners. It just seems to clean better.

Its not as bad if you rinse the cleaned parts with water and then blow dry them. But if you leave the residue on the parts themselves, its just the same.....

Originally posted by chicane67:
Its not as bad if you rinse the cleaned parts with water and then blow dry them. But if you leave the residue on the parts themselves, its just the same..... thanks for the info! i will buy the Non-chlorinated to clean the rear gears,etc!
graemlins/beers.gif

I use the Valvoline SynPower non chlorinated Brake/Parts cleaner. I cuts dirt, oil and grease very well and does not seem to leave a residue. It comes in a spray can and I got it at Discount Auto, but I'm sure you can get just about anywhere.
Dan.

ok i just bought a p[arts washer at the local Advanced Auto Parts store,for $99. + tax.
what do you guys use for parts washer fluid,
I was thinking of buying odor-free mineral spirits,i saw at Home Depot in the past, i have used the cheap mineral spirits before,in a plastic drain pan,but,wanted to have a real parts washer bin of my own.
graemlins/beers.gif

I get mine from 'Saftey Kleen'. But the mineral spirits might just do the trick if you are not doing alot of really dirty work. The solvent will always last longer, if you take the time to knock off the majority of the grease, oil or grime.