I found a ford 9" out of a 70 mustang for $500 and i was told it was a direct fit if it is how many can of worms will it open up to fit under my 68 Camaro?I have a th350 long tail trans.

It should fit with little trouble. The parking brake cables will probably be the biggest problem.

thanks BGH how can i get my chevy bolt pattern ralley wheels to work?Do i have to use ford brake drums?Shorten driveshaft?Change yoke?

The Chevy wheels won't work unless you have the axles drilled for the 4 3/4 bolt pattern. You will have to use the Ford brakes. The drive shaft should be fine. You may have to change the u joint.

That rear fits pretty much dead on! I have one in my '68. You do have to change the rear U-joint. I'll post a Rockwell P/N once I find it in my records tonight (3401??)!! You will most likely have to grind the mounts off and reweld but, this is a pretty easy job. You can make the rearend fit on the springs w/o doing this but the Fords springs sat about 1/8" closer together so you have to pull the springs in a touch. The bigger problem is that the pinion angle will most likely be of by several degrees! I had to turn the pinion "up" about 3-4 degrees. (my car is lowered 2")

I solved the bolt pattern problem by running Weld Draglite XP wheels. These wheels have two sets of holes, one for Chevy's and one for Ford/Chrysler! I have a friend who runs the same rear, and he did as BGH suggested. He had the axles drilled for the Chevy bolt pattern so he could run the stock wheels. You could also have Strange, Moser etc.... cut a set of racing axles any way you want 'em for about $500, but that might bust the budget!

E-brake cables were not a problem. I run the Ford brakes (which are larger, incidently!) and I was able to connect the stock cables right up to the actuator arms without modifying anything.

All in all, this is a pretty slick swap. Just keep in mind that that old, stamped 9" housing is not the strongest available!! You can do better with a modern "tube" type housing.

Good Luck,

Paul D.