Any tunnel modifications needed to switch a 69 from a 4 speed Muncie to 200-4R?

No tunnel mods but you need a TH400 crossmember.

A new cross member is a pretty minor problem. Thanks for the good news!

You will also have to move the trans pad on the crossmember back to the center of the car (cut and weld) unless you are running a big block with the correct big block mounts. The only 67-69 Camaros that had a TH400 were big blocks and those were offset an inch to the passenger side of the car. The small blocks were centered in the car. Your other option is to move the stock crossmember back if it will move that far and drill new holes in the subframe.

Jody

Jody, couldn't you get an SS350 car with the TH400?

4 questions about the 2004R:

Does the valley in the turbo 400 crossmember have a lower attaching point than the standard crossmember? From pictures it looks like the 400 crossmember would lower the rear of the tranny more if the same rubber mount was used.

For you guys that have used the 2004R with the turbo 400 crossmember, does the driveline have basically the same angle as a powerglide with standard crossmember?

What is the best torque converter lockup to use? The B&W adjustable for like $150, a straight lockup kit that locks-up whenever it goes into 4th/overdrive, or a manual switch?

One, last question: How important is it to upgrade the boost valve in the 2004R, I'd be running a stock 327/275hp?

Jody, couldn't you get an SS350 car with the TH400? Eric,

I don't believe so. I thought the only Camaro (67-69) that came with a TH400 was the big block version. Love to find out for sure though.

Jody

Bonecrusher,

I'm doing that very swap this week, using the T400 x-member, so I'll be able to report first hand. It's my understanding that the trans mount needs to be spaced upward about an inch to get the trans pan off the crossmember, but I'll soon find out for sure.

As far as the lock-up goes, here is what I know: It would be good to have a manual lock-up switch if you plan on using the vehicle for towing. If you need to pull a grade in a lower gear, you just hit the switch and lock it up. I'm going to be using the overdrive only lock-up. I'm using the brake light switch method for disengaging lock-up.

BPOS,
Take some pics during your swap if you can.
A pic is worth a thousand words. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Here is what I have done/learned so far. The T400 crossmember, while not a bolt in, is still a fairly easy swap. You need to posess or have access to a few basic metalworking skills, i.e. a welder and a cut-off wheel. Before doing anything I cut the trans mount pad off the cross member since it is offset to the pass side. Once the trans was bolted in I installed the crossmember and rear mount, and eyeballed what needed to be done to the trans mount pad. It has as stock elongated bolt holes, and they need to be elongated even more. What I wound up doing was turning the elongated holes into open ended slots using a hacksaw. I then bolted the mount to the pad and positioned it exactly where I wanted it, and tack welded it in place. Then I removed the crossmember and fully welded the pad to the crossmember, and re-installed it. You need to use a spacer of some sort to between the mounting pad and the mount in order to raise the rear part of the trans pan off of the crossmember. I stacked 3 3/8" flat washers, and that gave me enough clearance. The trans pan sits nearly parallel with the rails of the subframe, but if anything, is very slightly HIGHER in the rear - but very slight. If someone can help me with adding a pic to a post here, I'll crawl under there and snap one of the rear mount. I'll also update how the rest of the swap goes. FYI, I'm using a Bowtie Overdrives level 3 T-200 and their lock-up and TV kits.

BPOS out.

Which torque converter for which year late model car has the right bolt pattern and lockup for a powerglide swap in a 67 Camaro?

I don't want to get one and find out it only fits Oldsmobile or something.

there were only 2 bolt patterns for torque converters- big and small. most flexplates i have ever run across were drilled for both. if the holes don't line up, turn the engine 1/3 turn and try again. if it still doesn't line up, you have learned that Murphy's Law truly does apply to you.

Originally posted by bonecrusher67conv:
4 questions about the 2004R:
What is the best torque converter lockup to use? The B&W adjustable for like $150, a straight lockup kit that locks-up whenever it goes into 4th/overdrive, or a manual switch?

I used the TCI lockup kit (about $70) and I like it. It uses a adjustable vacuum switch connected to manifold vacuum. It comes with a pressure switch that you install in the valve body and a simple wiring harness. I like it better than a system that won't allow the TCC to unlock in 4th (like the ones that lock up based solely on vehicle speed, or lockup automatically in O.D.). I wired mine so that it only locks up in 4th AND manifold vacuum above a certain setpoint. You can tweek that setpoint based on your needs/driving conditions but the factory setting was very close. There are driving conditions when you need to accelerate slightly but want it to stay in 4th gear. When you push the accelerator down enough, the TCC unlocks and allows the motor to accellerate faster than if the TCC is still locked. That is similar to how the late model computer controlled units work. You can also wire this harness so that it will lock the TCC in 2nd - 4th gear. No brake switch is needed for 2 reasons: you connect the manifold switch to ported vacuum so when you let of the gas, there is no vacuum signal and that unlocks the TCC; and the transmission downshifts out of O.D. before you come to a stop, and (the way mine is wired), that also will cause the TCC to unlock. The TCI system can also be wired to use a manual switch AND be configured the way mine is since the neg side of the circuit is where the switching is. Sorry for the length....but I like this kind of stuff graemlins/boring.gif

That sounds interesting. I'm a bit confused though...when you let off the gas you lose vacuum? My engine has about 12" vac at idle in gear...do you set the vac switch for around 20 or so? Where is the vac switch located? Do you have a manual lock-up switch as well? Thanks!

Edit - D'Oh! I just re-read your post. I missed the ported vacuum part!

Originally posted by BPOS:
That sounds interesting. I'm a bit confused though...when you let off the gas you lose vacuum? My engine has about 12" vac at idle in gear...do you set the vac switch for around 20 or so? Where is the vac switch located? Do you have a manual lock-up switch as well? Thanks!

Edit - D'Oh! I just re-read your post. I missed the ported vacuum part! 10-4 on the ported vacuum graemlins/beers.gif

I can't remember what the setting was on the vac switch but I think it is less than that. Probably around 14 or so. The transmission has to have shifted into overdrive (pressure switch in valve body only closes when it shifts into O.D.) AND manifold vacuum has to be above the setpoint in the adjustable switch for the TCC to lock up. I used a qualitative approach vs. quantitative (or a specific manifold vacuum reading). I connected a 12v test light in series into the ground circuit, which is where the switch is. I taped the light to the windshield w/ clear tape (didn't want to run wire into the car for a temp setup like that). I could tell when the TCC locked up by watching the light. Most of the time I could tell by the feel/exhaust note and the tach but the light was a good confirmation. I tweaked the switch. Too high of a setting would cause it to unlock when simply going up a slight incline. Too low of a setting and it wouldn't unlock when I wanted to accelerate unless I floored it, causing the xmission to downshift to third. As I said, it was fairly close from the factory so one could possibly skip the calibration....I just wanted mine to be near perfect and it did turn out to be just right.
The switch can be located anywhere. It's a very small switch w/ a vac port and 2 elec spade connections. I mounted mine very close to the elec connector on the transmission. I wantd it away from the heat of the engine compartment. I bent 1/4 in tubing and mounted one end of it to the intake manifold under the distributor and routed it down the tranny tunnel close to the switch, using a short piece of vac tubing on each end to make the connection.
I don't have a manual switch. I was going to add one later but have not found a need for one in my application. It would be good to have in other applications. It would be very easy to add. It could be added to the existing circuit since all the switching is on the neg side.