View Full Version : Related to Tremec question


HLSASS
Feb 24th, 05, 05:50 PM
Posted this on performance and they recommended to ask a question about the rear end handling the supercharger. I'd appreciate any advice. Thank you.

I have a 67, 350 bored .30 with Demon 650 carb, rear end is from a 74 nova, 3.73 gears, 10 bolt, 8.5". It has been trimmed and balanced. Have M22 with muncie 4 speed. Double Camel-hump heads 2.02/1.60 valves (3782461 A75), 9.1 Compression and a high lift cam (not sure as engine was in before I got the car). Forged crankshaft and pistons.
I am at a loss with what to do next. I would like to put in baer brakes but am also thinking of a tremec 600 tranny. Current brakes are disc front and drum rears. Eventually (hopefully this summer) I am going to put in a ATI procharger. My question is:

1. Should I go for brakes first?
2. Would current tranny/rear end set up handles power from supercharger (would run about 12 lbs of boost) or should I upgrade to Tremec?

I am putting in some bilstein shocks now and just put in caltracs and a heavier duty sway bar. Really appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Hurst - Jeff
Feb 24th, 05, 07:59 PM
HLSASS-
You might find some helpful information about the TKO's here: Classic Chevy 5-Speed (http://www.Classicchevy5speed.com)

Eric Kammerer
Feb 25th, 05, 06:55 AM
Kinda tough to answer how your current tranny and rear will hold up, when you didn't tell us what you have...

Eric Kammerer
Feb 25th, 05, 07:08 AM
My bad, I read past it...

The 8.5 is pretty strong, and as long as you're running normal width street tires, not wide sticky slicks, it should live fine.

An M22 is probably strong enough too, if that's what you have.

However, I will say this. If you have an M22 and it still has its original ratios, it has a 2.20 first gear. If you bought a TKO 600 with the 2.87 first and 0.64 OD, you may find that off the line performance is so much improved just with the tranny swap that you don't need to bother with the supercharger.

A close ratio trans like an M22 likes a steep rear gear, like 4.11 or 4.56.

I bought a TKO 600 RR (.83 OD) for my 69, because I wanted to run a little less rear gear (3.42) without lugging my motor.

A TKO 600 should be more than strong enough for most folks.

Factory-style power disc/drum combos are usually enough for normal driving. If I was going to road race or went really fast in the quarter, I'd want to upgrade.

HLSASS
Feb 27th, 05, 04:45 AM
Thanks Eric, I did see some great kits for a 600 TKO at Keisler Automotive. The M22 I have in now only has about 5,000 miles on it. BTW, it has Any idea what kinduv price I could get for that? I like the idea of a 5 speed and am going to go ahead and get it after I replace the front brakes.

Eric Kammerer
Feb 28th, 05, 12:11 AM
Depending on condition and the date coding, I have seen the M-22s go for $1,000 to almost $2,000. There's a couple on eBay now in that range, with days left to go on the auctions.

The Keisler kits are fine, but I have heard that they are a little overwhelmed since they have been pushing the kits everywhere. I bought mine from Mike Forte, because I didn't want a whole kit, but that was before I met Jeff (the post above mine here) at ClassicChevy5speed. If I had to do it now, I'd go through Jeff because he is very customer service oriented and a good guy to boot (no, I don't work for or get a kickback from Jeff, I've just talked to him enough to know).

Since you already have the clutch and bellhousing, you don't really need a whole kit. If you get one of the GM TKOs, it will work with your existing clutch and bell. The output shaft is a C6 spline pattern, and the standard yoke that you get with the TKO is a 1330 U-joint. If you want a little heavier joint, a 1350 yoke is available. The crossmember that Forte makes (and Jeff sells) is cheap, at $125 or so. A speedo adapter and a plug or two, and you'd be good to go. I have around $2K in my setup, including shipping. I think Jeff ships free from time to time, so you'd have to check with him.

I'm running the same 8.5-inch 10-bolt, and I just had a 3R yoke put on it, which is one of the factory pinion yokes. There's a 3R/1330 hybrid u-joint, and I just plan to have a driveshaft made local when I get that far. Everything is in my car, but because it's a big block, I have to pull the crossmember and redrill for the offset transmount and do some surgery on the tailhousing (there's a boss cast in for the rear arm on 3rd or 4th gen F-bodies); in a smallblock car, you won't have to do either of those things.

Hurst - Jeff
Feb 28th, 05, 04:46 AM
Eric-
Thanks for the kind words. We have made some changes to our part offerings since we last talked.
1) We are now making our own crossmembers - they are tubular units as opposed to the flat style. Our crossmember is a direct bolt-in unit that fits without out having to modify the transmission tail.
2) We offer complete speedo cables with integrated speedo adapters instaed of just the adapter. We had found that some people were experiencing leakage at the speedo cable/speedo adapter junction so we changed to the integrated cable abadapter to eliminate the possibility of leakage at this junction point.
3) We also include custom driveshafts with our first gen camaro kit.
In any event, these are a few of the improvemnets that we have made to our parts line-up.
Here are the two kits that we have for first gen Camaros: 67-69 Camaro Deluxe Kit (http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/Deluxe_Transmission_Kit.htm) & 67-69 Camaro Elite kit (http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/Elite_Transmission_Kit.htm)
Feel free to call with any questions.

[ 02-28-2005, 01:08 PM: Message edited by: jeffmort ]