Well I finally got my car up and running yesterday. The motor seems to run great but I'm not sure the clutch is all adjusted/set-up right..

I have a Muncie 4 speed and a new centerforce clutch. It seems like I have to let the pedal out quite a bit before it grabs. I was thinking it would grab with less pedal travel.

Also the first time I drove down the street, it was surging once I let the clutch out all the way..... like it was slipping or something. I just drove it around the block and back into my garage, so I havent really used the clutch much....

Will a brand new clutch and flexplate slip some initially ???

When I set it up, I tried to follow the manual and when I did I had to extend the adjustment rod out alot (at least double the number of threads are showing now) compared to where it was when I had the saginaw 3 speed... so I'm thinking it extended it out too far ????

It comes down to what parts you have in the housing, overall T/O height and linkage being used.

GM makes three different height pivot studs and three different T/O heights. With the stock or stock geometry clutch linkage, you should be able to adjust it down to where it is right off of the floor board, about an inch.

But before we get into those questions or worries of replacing parts, try to extend the linkage out to where it almost preloads the bearing on the fork. I know its not advised to have the T/O riding the fingers of the plate, but this will give you an idea of how much room you have for adjustment.

If you run out of room, the pivot stud and/or the bearing height may have to be changed to get you into the proper geometry. I have run the adjustment right down to the fingers and have had decent life out of bearings, but when this is done it GREATLY reduces it life span, that is for sure.

I have the centerforce clutch and throwout bearing... I bought a new pivot ball ( the same height as the one that was in there with the saginaw 3 speed, just not all worn)it was about 1.5 inches high (??? with the threads)... and the stock adjustment shaft and fork...

So if its not grabbing until high up, I need to extend the adjustment linkage out (longer) or or in (shorter) ???

Compared to where it was with the saginaw 3 speed, its already extended out alot more than it was...

Linkage to fork = longer

If it's grabbing too high adjust the rod in (shorter).

Jody

SO how do I adjust it properly so it grabs at a reasonable distance but also disengages the clutch completely when I dispress the pedal ????

Yeah what Jody said. I have forgotten that I have made the geometry change to the 'Z' bar for use with higher than stock pressure plates and it changes the point of over extention, so my thinking is a little skewed for stock products.

But this depends on stud length and T/O height......

I adjusted mine so there's approx 1" free play in the clutch pedal at the top and everything works fine ( with a CFII setup ). How did you adjust yours?

Thats pretty much how I did mine as well.

Does anyone have the part numbers for the 3 different Pivot ball studs??? I am going to a Lakewood bellhousing and will be dealing with this same issue this winter.

Thanks,

Matt

Have a seat cause here goes.........

GM short stud 1.48" is part 3729000
GM long stud 1.78" is part 3790556
Lakewood adugstable stud is 15501

Some sources incorrectly show short stud is 3798556, that is incorrect use the above number.

Problem is Lakewood stud only allows for .100" of djustment, 1.48 to 1.58" and sdoesn't really help most guys. There are SO MANY things (including engine mounts and how far back the engine sits in the compartment) that effect your linkage operation that a lot of guys pull their hair out, still got most of mine. If you are interested keep reading.

What you are shooting for is 4.75" from flywheel face, the surface the clutch contacts, to the top of the pivot ball. If you don't have this dimension you will never get things working properly. Several things effect this dimension including flywheel thickness and if you use a block plate. The Lakewood block plate adds .132" to this dimension because it sets the pivot ball top further aft. My last Lakewood measured 4.870 with the short stud and without the plate, with the block plate it set things back to 5.002, so right out of the box I was .252 too deep. Using the longer truck stud got it close, but required some firewall "reshaping" to put it nicely. The adjustable stud will allow a shorter stud length than the 1.58 GM, but when going to a Lakewood that is rarely the problem. You can see the .100 longer achieved with the adjustable stud won't help either. A machined flywheel makes things even worse, but if you can find a flywheel that is thicker it will help, but this also effects how your combo will hook up and may or may not be an advantage.

Once the Lakewood can or GM bellhousing is set up the next thing is to get you z-bar adjusted so it isn't going overcenter and causing stress or binding. With the clutch pressed all the way to the floow the lower arm should point straight down. If it is going past tht point and is rearward it is overcenter and will bind. It is okay for it to point slightly forward to straight down, that is what you're shooting for. While the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor you also want to make sure the clutch release arm or fork, is parallel to the flywheel.

Get all these right and you will be a very happy man. Older, grayer, balder, but happy. If anyone knows of a source for a longer adjustable pivot stud let me know. Maybe I'll start making them, a guy who has spent his weekend running into a wall I figure will gladly pay 20 bucks for a longer adjustable stud.

SY1,

Thanks for all the info. Since you are just across town from me I would like to be first in line if you make an adjustable pivot stud with more than .100 adjustment. I had to make one for my Chevy II with the lakewood bell houseing. I lost alot of hair on that project (luckily it grew back).

Matt