Is it better to run through the radiator then into the cooler and back to the tranny or the vice versa?
Thanks,
Donnie

If you choose to use both, go through the radiator first, then the cooler. Or, use a bigger cooler, and skip the radiator entirely.

I'd bypass the radiator alltogether.

You may want to evaluate what type of trans and converter you have and how you use your car.
If you are running a PG, 350 or 400 and any transmission with a high-stall converter, I would then definately recommend bypassing the Radiator and running just the cooler.
If you are running any of the newer Lock-up type overdrive transmissions like a 700-R4 or a 200-4R without a stall coverter and drive your car year round then I would probably recommend you run through the radiator and cooler together. These later transmissions don't seem to generate as much heat and tend to need to get up to temp to work right. Driving at highway speeds with an overdrive and only a trans cooler has resulted in some very low trans temps in a few cars I've worked on. Don't know if it would effect their overall life or just made them shift rougher.

Just my .02

Thanks alot guys. It's a Th350 with a 3500 stall so I guess cooler and no radiator it is!
Thanks again,
Donnie

so, you guys think using the radiator in series w/ an aux. cooler is uneccesary? (in regards to a th350, 3500 stall) i have heard that it was wise to do this from a pretty reputable trans guy. but, i'm not questioning you guys, as i'm sure you have experience with this. i'm more of a motor guy, i leave trannys to the experts. it does make good sense, since as you describe w/ a stall, the trans is going to heat up anyway. and if you did use just a seperate cooler, how big would be sufficient, and what type? (ie, stacked plate or tube and fin) i would be interested to hear a further explanation of pros/cons from you guys on this, since i would prefer to just bypass the radiator for a cleaner install anyway. always seeking new information graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Low fluid temps are fine, the idea is to keep them under the 200* mark. I ran a 5000 RPM stall speed 8" converter on the street many years ago, and used a cooler similar to the B&M Super Cooler #70626 alone, with no radiator cooler. Any good cooler will work fine though. Here is one instance where "bigger is better", no matter what anyone tries to tell you!

Just out of curiousity, will the fluid get cooler if you use both or will it be the same as if you used just a big cooler and no radiator?
Thanks,
Donnie

P.S. 68rs406- Are you running a long water pump? If yes, do you have power steering? I'm asking because I'de like to know what bracket you're using to make it work...I can't find one anywhere.

Most likely it will be cooler, since you are not sending it through hot water in the radiator.

oldani, thanks for the reply, sounds reasonable to me, i may try it w/ just the cooler to eliminate some of the unsightly plumbing. '68123, sorry, i'm using a short waterpump and all the original power steering and alternator mount bracketry for the factory 327 that was in the car originally. it works quite well, and looks fairly original also. good luck with your search

my 95 chevy van came from the factory with a/c,and heavy duty cooling
It has an inline tranny cooler,the fluid goes thru the radiator heat exchanger first,then thru the extra tranny cooler,and back to the tranny.

277,000 miles,and it still works fine! graemlins/beers.gif