I have a Weir T56 install kit that uses a custom hydraulic throwout bearing. It came with the master cylinder. The master cyl appears to have pipe threads (ie no flare in the fitting) and the bearing has a 45 deg double flare fitting. How do I go about hooking this up? Is there a flex hose I can buy? Anyone else install the Weir kit?

I did this install a year ago so I don't recall exactly what the sizes were but the MC should have come with a female to female fitting to put on the end of the MC. I just went to Napa and found all of the fittings that I needed. You do eventually need to make it a flare so you can hook your line up.

here are some pics

http://www2.et.byu.edu/~dro7/t56/hydralic%20clutch.JPG


http://www2.et.byu.edu/~dro7/t56/mc.JPG

I did one on a friends car but we used braided line. If the master didn't have a fitting (I thought it did too) I think it used a #3an male into the master. I used a #3 to #3 male at the master, ran #3 stainless teflon brake line to the hydraulic bearing. There we used a female inverted flare to #3 male adapter.

Jody

Does the Weir kit come with a bracket to mount the master cylinder or do you have to make something yourself?

Does the Weir kit come with a bracket to mount the master cylinder or do you have to make something yourself?You have the option of buying a Tilton MC from Weir. It comes at an additional cost. You can use any brand of MC but make sure to get the volume right so it works with the weir slave. I believe the Tilton has a 1" bore and a little over 1" stroke. Wilwood also has one that would work. Any anyone you pick your going to have to fab up something on your own to get it to work. The advantage to the Tilton is, as shown in the picture, it has those extra mounting holes on the sides for more of a universal setup if mounting at an angle.

The complete Kit from Weir requires no fabbing, other than the flex line from the master to the hydraulic bearing. It comes with a crossmember, bellhousing, hydraulic bearing, clutch master, and bracket for the clutch master. All of the above bolts in without drilling any holes.

Ideally you don't want to mount it directly to the firewall unless you build some extra supports for it. The Weir bracket bolts to the subframe into three existing holes and holes the Tilton master at the correct angle to put the rod right through the hole in the firewall that the mechanical rod would use.

Jody

Originally posted by Camcojb:
The complete Kit from Weir requires no fabbing

Jody Sorry,

sometimes I forget this is more of a 1st Gen site. You guys have more stuff available to you. For my 2nd Gen I had to fab the crossmember too.

Originally posted by 81zdan:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Camcojb:
The complete Kit from Weir requires no fabbing

Jody Sorry,

sometimes I forget this is more of a 1st Gen site. You guys have more stuff available to you. For my 2nd Gen I had to fab the crossmember too. </font>[/QUOTE]That's true Dan. I've had four second gens myself, and I'm still amazed at the amount of stuff for the first gens.

Jody

I did purchase the Tilton MC. After going through the parts again it did include two fittings. One is an inverted flare 45 deg fitting, and the other looks like a male AN fitting. No documentation with it so I'm guessing regarding the AN fitting. After some research it appears I need to find a hose with 45 deg fittings on each end and I'm set. My line to the hydraulic bearing exits right by the floorpan so I'll need to adapt a 90 degree fitting on there before I can route it anywhere
81zdan,
Did you run hardline, or is that hose?

Originally posted by ramcda:

Did you run hardline, or is that hose? I used a hard line because it was cheap and readily available. I just bent it with my hands a little at a time. I imagine a braided line would be a little nicer.

I also have a second gen so I'm going to have to come up with a bracket similar to 81zdan's setup.

I think a braided line would be the better way to go. It'll allow for more movement from the transmission than the hard line.

Originally posted by magisnyc:

I think a braided line would be the better way to go. It'll allow for more movement from the transmission than the hard line. The Hard line still allows for plenty of flex, just like your tranny cooler lines. The only thing I would caution on is fire wall flex. When I push on the peddle all the way, the rear of the MC moves up a 1/4 to 1/2 inch, which doesn't amoutn to much flex in the a fire wall but its there. Thets probably because I used 2 horizontal mounting holes instead of 2 vertical ones. When driving it's not even noticable and drives great. I would like to stiffen it up a little though. Most brackets for other applications use the subframe or the brake booster as an anchor.