I plan on having my 12 bolt housing ends replaced and have a few questions if you don't mind.

I am having the gm ends cut off and installing the ends that utilize the ford pressed on bearing. It still will have the chevy pattern which supposedly allows me to reuse my old drum brakes.I was told that my backing plate (in addition with supplied retainer) will now hold the bearing in. So I guess I have to install the backing plate prior to pressing on bearing. How do you remove the bearing assy later? (I plan on switching to discs later) I think I can get a bearing separator under the bearing but the backing plate is larger so it will block it. I replaced the bearings on a toyota 4wd and isuzu pickup and used a tool that looks like a long pipe with a flange that bolts to backing plate. Is there a tool like that for a chevy pattern?Is it ok to reuse/re-press the bearing retainer (wedding band) more then once?

when you setup rear ends what do you use to hold the yoke from turning when crushing the crush sleeve?

If I use the solid crush sleeve what should I torque the pinion nut to?

My posi has "EDB-30174" on it ,the previous owner states it is an eaton 4-series but several websites say its a factory gm unit. Is it the same?
Since I will have to get custom axles for the ford bearings should I get the 33 spline eaton and axles?
How do I check the condition of my current posi unit?


Thanks, Ray

BTW, i am no expert, but my rearend guy said that the bolt in axle retainers leak like hell, and are only good in a drag race situation, i am not sure if the 9 inch ford ends are better, i vaguely remember that they are better than the aftermarket version, anyway just thought i would throw it out there. good luck!

Thanks Cody! I couldnt agree more on the bolt on c-clip eliminators. Thats why I am having my ends "cut off" and having new ends welded on. These new ends use the ford pressed in bearing(no c-clip) but still allow the chevy brakes to be used.

The one draw back is that you need custom axles.(about $300) still cheaper than quarter panel repair if the wheel comes out on the road due to broken axle. tongue.gif


Ray

Ray, the only kit that I have found worth more than the money spent on it is from Mark Williams.

Part number 50400 (http://www.markwilliams.com/pdfcat/pg8.pdf)

To remove the bearing assembly later, it will either have to be pressed off or cut off with a torch.

I wouldnt re-used a bearing retainer, unless, it is a 'screw on' type, and then that is questionable.

I use my hand and an Ingersol IR2131 impact gun at 175 PSI.

The pinion nut should be torqued to 35 'rolling inch pounds'. **Thanks for pointing this out Freddy** This specification is dependant on type of set-up the differential is going to be used in. A drag race car and a street car ARE set up a little differently. I should have said that from the beginning.....but thanks to Freddy he saved my booty from giving completely incorrect information. Normal street use will get between 22 and 26 when new and 12 to 15 when dealing with used parts. These stated numbers are with Schaffer's assembly grease.

Eaton was the OE supplier for GMC in the 60's, so yes it is the same.

33 spline axles are not really necessary unless you are going to be specifically drag racing it with ALOT of power, a clutch or trans brake. I have yet to break a Mark Williams 31 axle even with 1000 plus horse power in a drag racing chassis.

To check you current unit I would look at the bearing journel for excessive wear, look at the spider gears for the same and lastly the condition of the clutch pack.

Any other question, just throw 'em at us. I have pictures of what the stock axle looks like next to a Mark Williams axle to include the housing ends themselves if you are interested.

[ 06-20-2004, 07:52 PM: Message edited by: chicane67 ]

When using the new housing ends with the 9" Ford axle bearings you must have the hole in the center of your backing plates bored out to fit over the bearings. You can do this with a die grinder or have a machine shop do it. If you get disc brakes with bracket that are cut out to fit over the axle you should not have to remove the bearings when you change the brakes.

The EDB30174 is a 4 series Eaton installed by GM.

I have a special tool that I made to hold the yoke. I plan on producing them and selling them when I get time. You can use a large pipe wrench if you don't mind marking the outside of your yoke. With the solid spacer you should torque the nut to around 250 foot pounds. I always use lock tight on the threads. I set the bearing preload a little looser than Tom, at around 20-22 inch pounds.

You can remove the clutches from the posi and look for a wide, dark gray band around the inside and outside area of the discs. If the discs are shiny all over then they need to be replaced. You might also want to shim the clutches tighter and use some of the stronger springs and preload plates. Check the case for cracks around the window. If the gears look like they are pitted or flaking they should be replaced. The new gears are stronger than the old ones.

Chicane, Big gear head thanks for the info! Much appreciated!

One last question. Big gear head you said that I would have to bore the backing plate of my drum brakes out (so does the moser website to 3.150") so now the backing plate will no longer hold the axle/bearing in. Wouldnt the assembly slide in and out(travel caused by thickness of backing plate)until it hit the retainer?(Please bear with me if this sounds like a stupid question but I'm trying to picture it in my head)

Backing plate hole allows bearing assy. to go through it, it wont stop till it hits the supplied retainer. Unless the retainer has a raised ridge(thickness of backing plate)bearing can move in and out :confused:

Any way thanks again, Ray

If you order your axles with the bearing kit they will come with the axle retainers. These are steel plates about 3/16 thick that slip around the axle and bolt onto the housing ends to hold the axles in the housing. The backing plates are sandwiched between the housing ends and the retainer plates.

Thanks! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Ray