: higher temps on break-in?
Mar 19th, 03, 12:49 PM
hey all, i got everything together and it's running alright, needs massive tuning but hey, it's comin along.
the engine is a vortec 350, and I today when I was driving it, it got up to 230 degrees temp. the guage is a new one, and it's installed in the manifold, so I dunno if maybe it's in an air pocket or not getting enough water across it, because I thought the manifold was supposed to run cooler than the block, and that seems WAY too high.
i was also told that the engine tends to run hot when it's being broken it, and since it's only 2 days old I thought that might have something to do with it, but I'm worried since I've also heard vortecs are pretty heat sensitive.
what do you all think?
(dennis- sorry about posting it here, but i figured since it's a new engine and it's got all these other issues and i need to be at school really soon that i would get better responses here... feel free to move it if your administrative instincts tell you too smile.gif )
Mar 19th, 03, 02:49 PM
Is this on your 67? I know 3rd gen camaros run hot by design. 230 does seem a bit high. I'd wonder about the calibration of the guage. Can you drop it in boiling water and look for 212*. Or at lease measure it's resistance at 212* and substitute and equal value for the sensor in the vehicle (potentiometer). Might be a good idea to drain the oil soon and look for abnormal metal shavings. Is it running lean? I'd probably check the plugs also.
Mar 19th, 03, 04:19 PM
230 is too hot if the gauge is correct.
And...is the reading just at cruise, idle, slow moving or all the time?
If you are getting that hot moving down the road either you have a lower hose collapsing or a too lean carb. I am assuming the system is full.
If at idle and it will cool down at cruise, it's probably a lack of airflow!
Mar 19th, 03, 04:52 PM
Engines do tend to run a bit hotter when there new & tight, but 230 seems a bit high to me also. How does it run?
Mar 19th, 03, 09:21 PM
it runs well, i'm still getting used to the new powerband, but it scoots nicely when it's at the right RPM. I took a closer look after i posted and it tends to drop down to 190 or that range (180 thermostat) when I'm not really gunning it, and it does so incredibly fast, like over the matter of around 10-15 seconds. am I correct in assuming there isn't enough water in the system?
Mar 20th, 03, 03:01 AM
It sounds like you could have an air lock in your system that allows the metal to superheat and then as the coolant moves to that section of the metal it tries to cool it. This cycle can be repeated throughout the engine. You need to start the engine with the radiator cap off, let it idle until it is up to operating temp 180 + and watch the coolant flow in the radiator. Hopefully the air pockets will be pushed to the radiator and expelled as they are replaced with coolant. If your coolant level drops then will be pretty sure that was the case. I have experienced this with several rebuilds.
Mar 20th, 03, 03:42 AM
i just went out and added water, and it was actually really low, like a gallon short. I think that maybe there's a leak somewhere because that's one hell of an airlock. I'll run it around today and see if it ends up low again.
Mar 20th, 03, 04:08 AM
Keep your eye on the dipstick too. If there is a leak somewhere and it gets into the oil, ouch. Big piece of cardboard under the engine area will also show signs of any leaks too. Oil or antifreeze.
watch her close.
Mar 20th, 03, 07:52 PM
I think it may just have not been filled up enough, but what should I look for on the dipstick? the oil is still clean and looks pretty good.
ok, what I think is happening is that it's just spilling when it heats up cuz there is no catch, and since the sensor is in the manifold, it's at a point near the top of the system, therefore it's not getting enough water at some points.
tonight I'm gonna re-install the catch can somewhere (thinking in between fender and battery so it's hidden) and then I'll see what happens. thanks for all the replies.
Mar 21st, 03, 02:39 AM
If you are loosing coolant at speed the cap is compromised. Get at least a 16 lb cap. You should not be overflowing coolant into the catch-can constantly.
Air expulsion is obviosly an issue. Get it all out even if you have to jack the front end up to bring all the air to the top hose. Run it there for a while to work out!
Mar 21st, 03, 04:04 AM
Curtis - the only time I've ever had my coolant overflow is when the system was over full. I also don't see any problem with the temp sensor in the intake. I have mine there now and it reads the same as when it was in the head. Go over all the basics, proper functioning cap, proper shroud and fan/clutch assembly (proper distance from the core), stat opening properly (180 around here), good functioning water pump, clean and flowing rad core, good hoses (is the bottom hose colapsing) no obstructions in front of the core and also proper timing and plug heat range. You can also have heat transfered into the enginf from a overheating transmission. And to answer your question, water in oil turns whitish or grayish and the level on the dip stick would go up.