After engine disassembly is was apparent that the aluminum heads and water pump sustained some corrosion effects. Most apparant were at the waterpump to block and coolant passage to deck interfaces. 50/50 anti-freeze was used.

Now the car is getting an aluminum radiator as well.

What is the best way to reduce these corrosion effects long term? I've seen the in-radiator zinc anodes, but will these protect engine components? What about a marine zinc anode that installs into one of the engine head bungs?

Thanks.

GM went to Dexcool as their solution. Don't take this as a recomendation as I think Dexcool opens up to many other cans of worms... How long were the parts together and how frequent did you service the anti-freeze?

Everything, including the anti-freeze, is less than two years old.

Just say no to Dexcool.....

You can purchase sacrificial anodes from Jc Whitney to go into the radiator but the key is keeping the solution neutral.

Corrosion inhibitor packages help keep these things in line.

No Dex... but the new fangled foreign silicate free, ethylene glycol based formulas are good too. More and more modern engines and cooling systems have an abundance of aluminum and steel to gether creating the same needs.

I use "DI" water and two bottles of RedLine Water Wetter.

I think the big thing to do is get the majority of the minerals out of it. There is also the waterless coolants now that work pretty darn good too......

De-ionized water, as chicane suggests is good idea, we use it on enclosed electronic equipment cooling systems and along with demineralization cartridge, the coolant remains pretty much corrosion free.

But rigging up a deminerization cartridge is alot of work and more hassle than want its worth.

Using a marine zinc anode is good, buy two or three, one for each bank and a spare. The spare can be replenished with zinc rod bought from either your local steel distibutor or from www.McMaster-Carr.com (http://www.McMaster-Carr.com) and you can make your own replacements. The anodes screws into the pipe plugs, thus making changeout and the price cheaper.

Its too bad a chemical company hasn't developed a "plastic fluid" coolant. Now there's an idea.... my grandkids wouldn't have to work.....

I went with that new "G05" stuff. It is what is in my Dodge Cummins. I decided to go with it in the Camaro with aluminum radiator. The weird part is that it is clear. You probably already know this but make darn sure everything is grounded properly. Any electric current running through the antifreeze is a bad thing. One of the experts in evaluating corrosion will imediately know if it is a problem with electric charged antifreeze. I do not know what to look for.

Interesting point, Mr Miller, and Welcome to the Club!!

G05 (G zero(?) 5 or G oh 5(?) is used exclusively by Cummings, commerical & industrial uses. We have it in the Cummins Generator Sets (32KW 3 phase) we supply the FAA for their airport ATC radars.

I can see grounding straps attached to the heads, block, intake, and radiator to keep them on the same ground reference level, just like ECM grounding. All tied back to the negative battery post with 10 AWG.

I'll have to ask my Mopar Parts guys about this coolant....

From what I understand, I am no expert, Dodge/Mercedes are using this G05 stuff in all cars. In my Dodge Cummins it is orange. Ford is using the same stuff now in the Powerstrokes and I do not know what else. It is gold colored. The stuff I picked up at the auto parts store is Zerex G05. It is labeled as being the same stuff that is in Mercedes/Chrysler cars. It is clear. From my limited research it seems to be all good. Let us know what Mopar says.

Just after I filled my radiator with de-ionized water and anti-freeze, the SCCA publication came with an article that says DON'T use DI water! they said it's WORSE for corrosion!

The iron/aluminum interface is where you will have trouble. A mild electric current can be generated from the water and dissimlar metals.
David

Once again......it usually a problem with the acidic ph of the coolant.

But, currents going thru the intake or heads can cause problems ...so you can put a ground lead from the block to the heads too. I have known others to do this. Use an aluminum washer at the intake to monitor any galvanic activity.