Have any of you ever dealt with these people? What do you think about this deal?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33602&item=2477122334&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT

The price is right but, I am wondering if you get what you pay for. I need to replace my Be Cool radiator due to electrolysis (it has been in the car for over 5 years). I have the electrlysis under control (I think) but, the damage is already done. While the Be Cool works fine and I am happy with it. The price is not so easy to swallow at $600. As you can see this radiator is 1/2" the price and has the same deminsions, tube size, tranny cooler, etc... I am waiting for a response to see what the fin count is. I don't see anything that looks bad about the radiator and he has great feedback.

Any input? Advice?

With the 70 Camaro I have to have the slanted filler neck, other wise I would have more to choose from. If this isn't a good quality radiator I will just buy another Be Cool.

the blue anodized filler neck is just like that on the radiator I've got in my car... I bought a generic "summit brand" radiator two years ago. It actually turned out to be manufactured by "Northern Radiators" according to the box. It has served me well. Only downside is that the fins are pretty fragile... don't know if that is typical of an aluminum radiator... but they can be easily bent with a finger.

It actually seems like a decent radiator. He reponded to my questions, which were how many fins per inch, (13) and it is fully welded. The lower hose is not angled so I decided to go with another Be Cool since I have my car set up for it. I will give this radiator a shot when I get started on my Nova.

Thanks for the reply.

I don't know anything about those guys. I was looking at these guys: http://www.racing-radiators.com/chevy_racepro.html Does anyone have any experience with them?

graemlins/beers.gif

ttt

Royce
When you say electrolysis, how do you think this happened and what have you done about it? As far as aluminum rads go, I wouldn't buy one that has the core tubes epoxied to the tanks like a Griffin. They can't be repaired. I was once told that there are only two manufacturers of rad cores in the US and they supply everybody. I don't know if this is true but any of them I have looked at seem to be built the same when you compare the same thickness cores. The BeCool in my 69 has two one inch cores. I would go with the best price and warranty you can get.
Jim

The fact that there are many competitors in the radiator making business is good! But, the "racing" crowd likes to make multi-pass designs which are less efficient than single-pass designs. Double passes for example are made for constant high-flowing exchange for cars sustaining very high rpms. While this works well for racing it does NOT translate to the street application very well. STick to single-pass designs.

I have to take exception to GMJIM's statement about sources of radiators. I have been to over five differing shops that make there own radiators and many more exist. Tube sizes range from 5/8" to 1.5" and core sizes are all over the place. Also, while I agree that fully welded units are better than epoxied units, I have used epoxied units for years in Street rods and have NEVER had to replace one or repair one from Griffin! They know what they are doing...after all they are number one in the aftermarket business and they didn't get that way selling junk.

To prevent electrolysis from happening again make sure that your engine (heads and intake) are tied to your block which is grounded and moreover that your radiator is grounded as well. Also, run the new fangled G05 coolants. These are long life coolants that when used with distilled water will not become acidic to complete the cycle of conduction for the electrolysis. Also, sacrificial anodes are available from JC Whitney.

I am partial to PRC radiators from www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/157 (http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/157) Custom built to fit and large dual 1" tubes and a very high quality - money back guaranty with your purchase.

hey steve could you give me an outline of most important to least important requirements to prevent electrolysis?i just got my aluminum radiator in and i dont want to destroy it prematurely.

for example
1.grounding
2.coolant selection
etc..etc....

i just went and measured with my blue point DMM,,, and got almost 400mils with key off :mad: sounds like too much to me..........what can i do? i read 0-.3V is "acceptable for cast iron.......WTF?!!!

Kris......the best things you can do for your cooling system to prevent corrosion and electrolysis from happening is keeping the coolant mix stable and use the appropriate products. Just about any antifreeze produced these days will protect all metals and keep acidity down. I prefer the "HOAT" G05 stuff tho. If Mercedes uses it, it's gots to be goooooooooood stuff. They also have a multi-metal mess, neatly tucked under all the hoods!

Grounding your engine is obvious, but also make sure the radiator is NOT Floating on rubber mounts and is physically attached to the frame somehow. This will prevent voltage differences at the radiator.

With the proliferation of may aluminum parts with the other iron,steel and copper parts, there is really no need to run sacraficial anodes per se. The shear surface areas are very large now.

i plan on doing all of the above........but HOW important is distilled water in this equation? i have heard.......90% of it....is that really true....

why is distilled water the preferred choice?

Actually you want water without particulate matter and/or dissolved minerals in it. Distilled works best and de-ionized water works too.

Todays antifreezes/additives will usually take care of even tap water as long as it's not too hard.