Well I am about to take out my heater box and replace my heater core, however I am still uncertan if i will be able to do anything with it as my engine seems to sit too close to them (the back of the head virtually hits the bottom inlet.

When I first looked into this I thought it was an inline 6 thing however i have been told they were identical to the small block ones.

Ive looked at a few pics and it just looks like either my motor or the inlets are in the wrong place. If you guys could take a look at some of the pics i have of it

Its on page 4 of my webpage on my sig

Brian, have you thought about putting a big block heater core in it?

When you took the subframe out and then reinstalled it, did you line everything back up following the Fisher specs?

I still think you have something out of whack with the subframe either all the way back or the wrong engine mounts.

Was there an engine in the car when you got it? Do you have any idea what mounts you have?

Well thats the thing the car was origionally a i6 and it had been converted to a small block when I bought it, but the motor mounts were not only wrong but they were welded in, so i got a replacement subframe, along with the technically correct motor mounts and frame stands or whatever their technical name is, from ricks so I am pretty certan they are correct, I alighned the subframe with the alighnment holes in the body and frame mounts.

I had considered the big block heater system as its inlets are completely out of the way, however I would imagine there are quite a few more things to do than just a heater core in order to have the big block setup, has anyone done this conversion, and what is involved in it

All you need for the BB coversion is the core and the plate/gasket kit that is available through vendors like Classic etc.

The heater cases are the same.

Just drill/cut the holes and there it is.

Here's the one on my 67.

http://hometown.aol.com/zz430droptop67rs/images/img_0045.jpg

classics etc? also would that be the chrome cover in your engine bay?

Brian, it appears the engine is too far back, like you may have gotten 350/302 towers rather than 307/327 towers to mount the engine in the bay. The latter sets the engine forward in the frame. With the "forward mounting" towers, one should be able to manually wrench a bellhousing bolt from the top.

With the 350/302 towers, an HEI dist cap will be 1/2-3/4 inch from the firewall.

As Don suggested, either buy a BBC heater core, or have straight nipples brazed/soldered onto your core and drill holes, rather punch holes using a Greenlee punch.

Don, you need to issue shades for onlookers! Nice bay!

I did the SB blower box conversion to a BB box. You can see the box in my signature sight. I got teh heater core from AutoZone, measured, drilled, cut, and then "adapted" the core retainer clips to fit the BB core. All that is left is the piece for the blower box they call an "adapter". Use a new seal kit for a BB heater core and work it. You may also have an improper SB core in your car.

Thats exactly the problem, 350 towers, I didnt think of it when I ordered them.

So ill go with the big block heater core and seal kit, cut the holes for the new location of the inlets, and get the clips to fit, however what is the adapter?

Originally posted by jackalope:
what is the adapter? I couldn't find a pic of just the "adapter" that I called a "plate", but look in the center of this box and you'll see it attached. It is available by itself, as are the seals you'll need. One seal covers the old holes in the firewall, and the other seals the "adapter".

http://www.camarosandclassics.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/HS2662.jpg

BTW, on the pic I posted of mine, it's red, and the heater box is just a chromed version.

okay got it guys thanks

Yep. That's the "adapter".

If you are comfortable with your propane torch skills, you could heat the offending tube's solder and rotate the tube that is interferring. I've done this on a new heater core before when the tubing bend interferred with my valve cover. You only want to add enough heat as necessary though so not to cause other problems. I don't know if I would try this on an 20 year old heater core though as it may cause some other problems elsewhere in the core.