My car does not have one and if it had one it is long gone now. How important is one and if I need one can you send some ideas and pictures on where to mount it. (in response to this thread http://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimatebb.php/topic/19/599/2.html )

Also, wasn't someone from TC making and marketing overflow tanks??? hint hint :D

its important because itll reclaim the fluid lost during hot or near overheating conditions.
( saving you the trouble of refilling each time you drive)
I mounted mine on the front side of the radiator suport on the passenger side

It was Eric 68 that was making them. Pop him an email, but wait a day or two so I can get in line, it's a serious sweet piece.

I mounted mine on the front side of the radiator support as well, had the brackets welded to the support. Its the $25 unit sold by hotrodsusa, polished aluminum.

http://69camaro.nextmill.net/photos/radiator/overflow_med.jpg

First gens did not come with coolant overflow reserviors. They are an aftermarket add-on by the owner.

Kindda like Mom's chicken soup, it doesn't hurt to have one. Good choices suggested here, Eric's is nice.

If you use a recovery system, make sure you use the correct rad cap, or the coolant will not be drawn back into the rad as the cooling system cools.
I think it was in the early 70's when coolant recovery systems became stock.

You can use the stock rad cap. What I did was to mount a second winshieild washer bottle to the pass inner fender using the rs bracket. This made my "overflow" container look stock and have had many inquires about the set up. I never have had to add coolant and more important, I never dumped any.

I use one like in Brian's photo and mounted it to the engine side of the radiator using aluminum angle iron and the two threaded taps for the tranny cooler.(mine's a four-speed car)

If the stock cap is used from a 69, of course the coolant will flow into the recovery jug, if the cap releaves, but it won't flow back into the rad as the cooling system cools. This requires a rad cap from a later recovery type system. They are different.

I disagree. Coolant flows freely back and forth from my overflow tank and radiator with the stock cap. That maybe different for newer cars.

Originally posted by Gary Dorion:
You can use the stock rad cap. I never have had to add coolant and more important, I never dumped any. Not here to argue, however, your first post contradicts your last post.

The point is that with the stock cap that I have, I made a closed loop system. With coolant in the overflow tank and a full rad, the system is always full and you can see the levels change when the engine is hot or cold. With the original set up, the rad level when cold is 1 inch below the cap. with my system, the level is always at the cap.
Not to argue either, just stating what I did and others have done, and the overflow tank setup works.

Your experieance with the older caps (1969)is differnt then mine. If it works properly for you thats great and thats all that matters. Take care.

My overflow can came in today!! Special TC member price, too! Damn thing is gorgeous. Maybe I'll just figure out a way to make it hold beer?

I bought a moroso aluminum 1 quart recovery can. I mounted it where the horn relay and voltage reg used to be. I have a 1 wire alternator, so I didn't need the volt reg. I moved the horn relay under the drivers side fender. Its hidden and I don't have to see the ugly wires. When I was shopping for one I noticed that there was a difference in recovery vs catch cans. Make sure you get the right one.

Well, after having to buy a new motor for my son's '86 Chevy 3/4 ton 4X4, my Camaro funds have dwindled. For now I just bought a 6' piece of 5/16 rubber hose and used my washer bottle as my overflow tank. Since I have never installled the pump for the washers my tank just sits in there for looks. I attached the rubber line to the little tube at the neck of the radiator, ran the line down the right side of the tank, then underneath. I used wire ties to keep it in place at the bottom of the radiator then came up under the washer bottle and attached it to the cap. So far it looks like it will work like a charm.
I will get one of the polished tanks later.....

Question on this topic, I have a 16 pound cap and a Summit overflow tank. Someone told me that I need to drill a small hole in the top of the overflow tank to allow liquid to go into the tank. He said that without it the air pressure in the tank could not escape thereby leaving no space for the liquid. My thing is this, if it needed it, then Summit would have made it with one. What say ye???

Not starting an argument. But, If your "stock" cap let pressure out when hot (air or coolant) wouldn't it create a vacuum when the coolant cooled and next time you drove,fluid gets up to temp,and now "in theroy" your coolant system wouldn't be pressurized which would allow your boil over temp to be lower ?

I would think most any cap would have to suck fluid/air back in to equalize system.

Just asking.

Yes I am making them -- I have to support my go-fast habbit somehow :D Thanks for the kind words Jim.

Here are a couple pics as installed on my car (don't mind the dust LOL).

http://hobbystage.net/camaro/eric_68/1111698068-006105.jpg

http://hobbystage.net/camaro/eric_68/1111697971-006104.jpg

My catch cans are self maintaining because the have a tube connected to the fitting that goes to the bottom of the can. There is a drain valve on the bottom in case you ever want to completely empty it. The can attaches to the car with two 1/4-20 bolts (included with the can) that screw into threads tapped into the bracket. Cans measure 3" diameter by 8" tall.

If anyone is interested just shoot me a PM or email Eric_68@comcast.net -- I do have discounted pricing for TC members.

You have to understand how radiators work to engineer a working recovery system...if you need one. May I offer some comments.

ON all downflow radiators where the cap is always the high point of the system no overflow is necessary. You can leave about 1" of expansion space and it will never violate the cap unless you have REAL problems. I would use at least a 12 psi cap and if you have a real large radiator, run high temps of 195+ and/or have high volume waterpump...then I would say at least a 14psi or better. You can run an overflow if you are anal retentive about losing fluid on the pavement, should it ever happen.

If you run a crossflow and do not fill it to the top......same thing...the top of the radiator acts as an expansion space and again, follow the pressure suggestions. But, if you fill the crossflow to the very top and allow for no expansion space, you will need a recovery system with a two-way flow cap. When things get heating up, the cap expells coolant to the tune of expansion volume needed and then when it cools sucks it back into the original space. If you only have a one way cap then it will never refill and sometimes leaves your hoses collapsed under those conditions.

If you want to be legal at an HNRA or IHRA sactioned dragstrip you will need an overflow tank. Anti-freeze is harder to clean up than oil when someone pukes coolant on the track . . . it's not a good thing and causes long delays.

All new cars starting in about 1970 or so all came with an overflow tank. The idea is to keep air out of your system because air in a coolant system speeds up corrosion. A recovery tank allows for normal expansion and contraction of coolant without introducing air into the system.

Nice induction Eric, is that a 50's Olds air cleaner? Don't mind the dust LOL.

One important reason for a closed coolant recovery system is that it keeps the radiator full of coolant which means there is no air in the radiator, thus less or no corrosion (rust). I didn't see this in any posts.