I have a friend with a '67 convertable, and his top stoped working. He thinks it may be low (or leaking) fluid. What type of fluid do they use? I thought it would be hydraulic, but he was told brake fluid. Anyone know what fluid? How to fill?
Thanks,
Austin

Austin, I believe it takes automatic transmission fluid. If you pull the back seat and look at the motor, it will have a sticker on the motor specifying the fluid. If you get stuck, call the guys at Hydro-E-Lectric in Florida, they advertise heavily in Hemmings and specialize in all things convertible. They are a good source if he needs new lines or a motor. Try them at 800-343-4261, there web site is www.hydroe.com (http://www.hydroe.com)

Thanks for the replys, I will let him know. Is it best to remove the old fluid before adding new?
Austin

Austin, you don't need to remove any fluid, it doesn't go bad, unless you're rebuilding the pump anyway. The filling procedure is documented in the Fisher body manual.

You need another plug and insert a tube attached to a hose. The hose goes in a jar of ATF. With the new plug in and the hose in the ATF, lower the top and run 15-20 secs longer until you hear the motor noise reduce. Then run the top up and down a few more times to top it off. The motor will pull fluid from the jar, similar to brake bleeding. Keep the ATF level above the hose. When the top works well, put the original plug back in (keep some rags handy for spillage) and you're done.
The hardest part is making the filler plug do-hickey.
I just picked up a plastic vacuum tee and some clear vinyl hose to make it, to do mine. I have done this on a previous convert and it worked fine.

Luck, Kevin

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69' SS-350 Convert, M20, 3.55 posi. Totally Disassembled & in boxes (I'm working on it!)
69'(Hugger Orange -originally, Burgundy now) Z-21 Convert 327/PG, Driver

[This message has been edited by KevinW (edited 06-21-2001).]

Ditto the rags, this can get messy!

When i do mine i get one of those oil pump cans (squirter), fill with ATF and put a hose on the nozzle and direct it into the res... and squirt away

John

When I worked on my pump it was barely moving the top up and down. I went to ACE hardware and asked for their rubber grommet section. I bought a grommet with a 10-24 nut at the end of it. I also bought a brass fitting ribbed at both ends. This brass part had a tag on it, 1/4 hose mender part #47223. When I used this brass fitting pushed into the rubber grommet it made the grommet bulge perfectly. Then I bought 6' of clear 1/4" vinyl tubing. I put the grommet in the filler plug hole, jammed the clear tubing on the brass fitting, then jammed the other end of the brass fitting into the rubber grommet in the motor. Put the tubing in the ATF bottle and with the top in the UP position, start working the top down and back up again. Ensure the tubing is laying in a downwards direction towards the ATF bottle. I noticed that when the top was going down is when the system was getting rid of the bubbles in the system. My system consumed 1/4 of a quart of ATF when the bubbles were finally gone. Once there was only little itty-bitty bubbles left after the top went down, and the tubing was solid red went the top was going up and down I proceeded to disassemble everything. I let the car settle for a minute, went to get something to drink since it's hot here in Florida. Then I pulled the tubing to the top of the ATF bottle to let the fluid drain from the tubing back into the bottle (this is where the downward routing of the clear tubing comes in handy). Only let the fluid drain out of the tubing. Once this is done stick the tubing back into the bottle to stop the draining process. I had a simple shop rag under the passenger side of the conv. top motor right under the filler hole. With the top in the DOWN position, I then pulled the rubber & brass fitting from the hole with the factory stopper in hand and immediately put the factory stopper back in place. Fluid will start flowing immediately upon drawing the rubber & brass fitting from the service hole, so get that stopper in there quickly! My top goes up and down very strongly and smoothly now.

The service manual states that if you are installing a new pump to fill the reservior with hydraulic fluid as a primer before installation begins, but to use Type "A" transmission fluid in the filling operation above.

Hope this helps

I too am needing to do this tonight for my '67 as the lines have lots of bubbles.

A couple of quick questions:

#1
The Fisher manual says to buy a new plug and cut off the male end of it. The plug that came out of my car (aftermarket), was basically a ~3" bolt with smaller end threads, and an o-ring on it. Is this the same as a factory pump plug? I don't see how cutting anything off of it would work to attach a hose to it. I think I'll go Steve's route, grommet/brass nipple/hose to container.

#2
I have a new set of the plastic (not rubber) lines from the cylinders to the pump. I am thinking of replacing the lines (I've got a leak somewhere), but can't find the best way to access the fittings that connect to the piston assembly. Do most people remove them in their entirety?

-Kevin

Quick Update-

The bolt with o-ring and all- not the filler plug. Check. Got that one figured out.

I did find a leak in the rubber hose lines- those that connected to the bottom of the lift cylinders. Replaced with a new plastic hose type from NPD.

Filled the pump using the grommet, fitting and hose line into AT fluid container, worked well.

Top goes up and down now- how about that!

-Kevin