Hey, I basically have no anti-theft devices on my 67 Camaro. It's ok now... always in a locked garage in a very secure neighborhood... cul-de-sac to boot. BUT... I want to drive my car once in awhile, and I see in the near future a day where I park it somewhere and go inside shopping for something (imagine that... using your Camaro to ferry you to an actual destination LOL). Anyway, what is your best idea of a great anti-theft idea. I'll give you mine.

I think the best is a boot... similar to the ones the parking dep't. uses in Denver on delinquent drivers... it goes around your front wheel and essentially immobilizes your vehicle ENTIRELY. It can't even be driven or towed up on a trailer. DISADVANTAGE is it weighs a bunch.... LOL.

Some kind of separate ignition kill switch would be a good idea. Hide the switch so if you car is hotwired, it still won't start. If your really serious lojak is great. Even if your car is stolen, they will find it.

run a small black wire from the - side of the coil to a toggle switch hidden inside the car somewhere and run the second wire from the switch to a ground. Flip the switch and the car won't start. Pretty easy and cheap to do.

Clill has a great idea but then one of the younger guys here that just had his car stolen did also. Had all the latest Theft devices installed in his Acura and the only thing that stopped the theft of the car was that they ran out of gas within the 1st 5 mins of it being taken. Guess it does pay sometimes to not be able to afford the $2.29/Gal we have to pay here.

I use the Grant steering wheel security system. It allows you to remove your steering wheel easily and stow it in the trunk. I think it is by far one of the best options. Without the steering wheel, you can't take the car, no matter what. It is removed and installed with a key so you can't put it back on without the key. The only downside is that it makes the steering wheel have excess side to side play, which can sometimes be annoying.

A friend of mine built a nice setup for his car. He removed the drvr kick panel and installed a sliding switch on the back side.

Next, he unhooked the vent pull from the door and fastened it to the sliding switch. He then ran two black wires from the neg coil post and connected them across the sliding switch. O ne wire from the coil, the other to the distributor.

Want the car to run - push in on the vent knob. Anti-theft the car - pull the vent knob, electric path is open.

One of my engrg buddies bought old pagers from the pawn shop. Connected them to a board and connect the board to most any elec system on the vehicle. Had the pagers programmed for a phone number and two codes, one code to disable the car, the second to enable the car. It works well.

Sorry, couldn't resist the urge to post this car safety system. :D
Car Safety Device. (http://216.144.230.195/Videos/Low_WMP8/Trunk_Monkey_4.wmv)

ORENCH FUNNY VIDEO... I laughed my *ss off. Good discussion... I contacted the company that makes the BOOT... I still think that is the best way to protect your car, ALONG with a kill switch. The company is PALMA... I'll get back to you on what they say. I can NOT deal with any slack in my steering wheel, although I can see the logic of such a system. In ref. to the kill switch discussion, reminds me of how OLD SCHOOL guys (60's) used to do the same thing by removing the coil to distributor wire... LOL. Made a great bulge in your pant pocket too. Problem with a kill switch is that any good car thief knows that, and a 67 hood is not locked... take about two seconds to remove your hidden wire from the top of the engine.

If they really want it they will get it...period. But kill switches,alarms,steering wheel disconnects will keep the joy riders away. My two favorites are a fuel shut off 15 seconds after start up and a brake line locking device. 9 times out of ten if a theif starts the car and drives away only to have it die 15 seconds later, they are not gonna want to stick around in the middle of a road trying to figure out what went wrong. In a parking lot or car garage maybe but not out in the open. But a true professional will get it if they really want it. Best bet is to make sure you spend the extra money insuringng it for its true value. This way IF you fall victim to it, at least you will be able to recover financially.

"They'll get it if they really want it." Couldn't agree more.

Aside from being really diligent in watching your car when it's not in the garage...

Haggerty or Grundy. Be sure you are fully covered at an "agreed to" price.

I think the boot will beat the heck out of your rims and if you have mags... :eek:


Rick.

still trying to figure out how to wire a tazer into the steering wheel myself... or perhaps into the seat right around the butt area... ;)

The June issue of Musclecar Enthusiast (with the '68 Baldwin Motion Phase III Camaro on the cover) has an article on a system similar to Lojack, but with additional options such as shutting the vehicle down by remote control. Their website is -

http://www.directed.com/

John

After watching the repo man snag an employees Jeep Cherokee from the office parking lot, I'm convinced nothing is safe. Luckily most bad guys don't have a rig like that.

Mark, how do you set up a fuel shut off after 15 secs... or more importantly, do you have a site to visit for instructions. I REALLY like this suggestion.

The sad thing is like already mentioned, if they want it they will get it with the right equipment. A winch on a roll back can drag a car up on the bed in a hurry even if all the wheels are locked. For those on foot, the other things mentioned may help stall the person and make them change there mind about taking it? Grounding the coil is a good idea. Even if they hot wire it, it still wont start.

The pager idea with an electric fuel pump would be nice. Although you really would need a fuel shut-off delay like was mentioned as well. A pager in control of an electric fuel pump is only good if an hour or less went by when you realized your car was stolen. Anything longer, and it would most likely be stowed away never to be found in its original state.

I think what I'm going to do is this:

1. Interrupt switch from the coil hidden under dash.
2. Lojack.
3. I MAY also eventually get a movement alarm, just to perhaps draw attention to the car if someone is dragging it up onto a trailer bed.

Hey,I want one them trunk monkeys....

Hey I Vote for the trunk Monkey, Get even if they steal My Camaro.

Trying to remember but I think if you have a 6AL MSD you can take out the rev limiter chip and the box will not work. Not too many people carry around MSD chips in their pockets.

I have that system!... anyone know if that is true... also, do you think it would eventually wear out the connector/plug-in if done on a regular basis? I'm on a trip till Saturday. I intend to start wiring a kill switch Sunday.

The 6AL already has provisions for a kill switch. Will look at my instructions tonight, but I know I read it in there about the chip. I will do one better...I'll pull it out and try to fire it up and post back.

I have the removable Grant steering wheel as one of my anti theft devices. There is absolutly NO play in my steering wheel, up down side in out, it is solid. It's a nice piece. If you have any play, you should find out why.

I think the device that goes under the brake pedal would be good. Can't remember what it is called.

Lonnie

Removing the chip in the 6AL does not keep it from starting. Just tried it and it fired right up. Still going to look for where I read it just so I know I'm not crazy.

Hey Jethro,

Easy setup actually. I is based on a fuel solenoid setup that actually gets it power from the knob on the radio. Also involves a hidden switch in the car. If the switch is in the one position and you dont hit the right preset button on the radio then boom the solenoid clamps the line shut and cuts fuel to the motor. Dont care how much wiring skills you have, can run a motor if you can get gas to it. My buddy is working on a kit to sell. It will have all the instructions along with the solenoids and some really trick places to hide that switch. If any one is interested let me know. I ll send you the info.

Mark

The coil wire is a good idea. I have a painless wiring harness and that includes a fuse for the coil in it, I keep a blown fuse handy and just swap them when I need to leave the car, I also have a small tap on my fuel line so when that's off the car will only have the fuel that's in the carbeurator, a bit more than 15 seconds worth but it will work too.

Lot of good info on this particular topic... Mark I'm definitely interested in this kit, because it could probably be hidden underneath the car (solenoid cutoff) close to the firewall... I assume the car could not go TOO far on that gas, and if would probably leave the the car stranded where the thief would least want it... traffic, etc. I MAY start now tho, when I get home, and
use flyingkiwi's idea, and just put a tap on the line below the car, or even under the firewall. I don't mind doing it myself mechanically once in awhile.
So.... when I get home:
1. Hidden Kill-switch (LOTS of good ideas on that in here lol)
2. Fuel cut-off
3. Lo-jack someday when I can afford it.

Thanks

I own two high profile cars that are on the top ten list for thefts,..an 86 Grand National and, of course, the 69 Camaro. The Camaro stays in the garage while the Grand National sits in my driveway. In San Francisco, you're lucky to have a one car garage.

For security, I chose the Python alarm system with an extra hidden fuel cutoff switch. Not only will it page me if someone opens a door, hood, or trunk, but it will set off a screaming alarm and kill the ignition. The fuel cutoff is separate, so even if they get around the ignition kill, they can't start the car. Yes, it's true, someone can tow the car away after disabling the battery and the screaming alarm, but that amount of noise on my street would wake everyone up. The only worry for me, really, is leaving the GN out in front of a movie theatre. So, far nothing terrible has happened.

One more note, any thief is going to check under the dash for the fuel/ignition cutoff switch. I have fake toggle switch that's not hooked up to anything under my dash. The real switch is hidden in a tough spot that would take a long time, if possible to find.

with the fear of the car being loaded into a flatbed... I'm thinking some sort of pyrotechnic device to cook anybody who tries it! :mad:

That'll teach 'em! graemlins/angry.gif

Most of the devices mentioned so far are good for stopping the amature thief. Anyone with a flatbed however, can take a car in 30 seconds regardless of what anti theft device you have. The only thing worth getting for this kind of thief is the boomerang which uses a GPS system to track where your car is. Thay have a 98% recovery success rate. Can even find cars that are parked underground.

www.boomerangtracking.com (http://www.boomerangtracking.com)

For a fuel shut off system, I use a electric propane fuel shut off valve(compatible with gasoline and available at your local propane dealer); wired to a hidden toggle switch. 15 seconds and the engine quits! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I just had my car towed yesterday. (that's a whole different story). I called the first guy in the book and he arrived in an old tow truck. He backed up to my car, got out, worked the hydraulics and my car was rollin away in less than 2 minutes. Scary thought that anyone with an old tow truck can pull away with your car in no time and make it look professional.

Originally posted by Hylton:
Most of the devices mentioned so far are good for stopping the amature thief. Anyone with a flatbed however, can take a car in 30 seconds regardless of what anti theft device you have. The only thing worth getting for this kind of thief is the boomerang which uses a GPS system to track where your car is. Thay have a 98% recovery success rate. Can even find cars that are parked underground.

www.boomerangtracking.com (http://www.boomerangtracking.com) I agree.

In reply to the MSD6al, if your useing points distributer, you ground the green or purple wire< not sure what one>,and if you have HEI,ground the white wire. I also have the alarm system<motion & entry>and Mr.Gasket hood locks<needs a key>. If I hear them and I'm home 357mag w/ black talons... done!

I finished the kill switch using some of the info in here... still don't have the fuel tap cutoff done... in work...

But, has anyone used this boomerang technology 383 linked to... and how much does it cost?

Ouch, just read up on the boomerang thing.. cost you a kewl grand to start up. granted covers first year, but ouch!

leave a really big and really pissed off dog in the back seat. but then you run the risk of gettin your seat covers tore up.

A friend told me something years ago about his dad hooking up some kind of system that when someone touch the car it would shock them. Anybody heard of this?

:D

There's a law suit waiting to happen.

Years ago I had seen a Modified starter solenoid that was wired up to a keypad in the interior. You had to enter the correct code for car to start. You could also remove the keypad if you wanted. Has anyone else ever seen this or know the name of it?

I have heard that some guy's are getting the "onstar" stuff and putting the small antena inside the car where its hard to find and then running the setup. That way it is like LOJACK and you can call the "onstar" people to shut the car down. I am not 100% sure how the wiring and electronics are integrated but it sounds like it would work, and have all the advatages of the tracking stuff that "onstar" has to offer.

Originally posted by 69Z28:
A friend told me something years ago about his dad hooking up some kind of system that when someone touch the car it would shock them. Anybody heard of this? :D CA420 is right - There used to be a company that sold a steering wheel lock that ran a thousand volts through anyone who touched it but they had to stop selling it because some thief successfully sued them and the owner of the car he was trying to steal. Can you believe that crap? That's almost as bad as the grand mother who was awarded 8 million because the McDonalds coffee she bought was too hot and it spilled on her lap when she was trying to drink it in her car. I'm sure most of you guys heard that story. Yes, the award was later reduced to a measly 2 million. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by gmranch:
For a fuel shut off system, I use a electric propane fuel shut off valve(compatible with gasoline and available at your local propane dealer); wired to a hidden toggle switch. 15 seconds and the engine quits! graemlins/thumbsup.gif How much does that valve cost? Does it work with stock fuel pumps or only elec? Good idea.

The valve will work with either mech or elect fuel pumps(mount between tank and pump). The valve is around $35. graemlins/beers.gif

gmranch, I don't know how I missed that post earlier about the switch... I'm off to Sears this morning. Hopefully they will have it... if you end up with any part numbers or more specific switch info, post it... otherwise I'll try to get them.

Originally posted by Hylton:
That's almost as bad as the grand mother who was awarded 8 million because the McDonalds coffee she bought was too hot and it spilled on her lap when she was trying to drink it in her car. I'm sure most of you guys heard that story. Yes, the award was later reduced to a measly 2 million. :rolleyes: The TOTAL awarded was under $500,000.oo and there were large "anonymous" donations to several Childrens Burn Centers shortly after the case was finally settled...
The woman still lives in the same house as before the suit. Her life style did not change.

Please read the FACTS about the McDonalds case and then rethink why the same amount that was awarded was correct.
http://www.hurt911.org/mcdonalds.html
(btw - they don't mention that McDonalds had a multi-million $ advertiseing account with the network at the time the program referenced on here ran.)

We have a family friend who's child spilled his mom's cup of coffee on his hand while there reaching for something on the tray she was bringing to the table and he suffered severe burns to his hands that required a graft. He's just about ready to graduate from high school and still has scars.

McDonalds served their coffee way to hot for to long for no good reason and many people were burned by it.

For added 'yuks' and to balance this post - also 'google' "the Stella awards"... ;)

All for fair and balanced reporting;

John

(sorry to hijack the thread - now back to how to keep your car...)

Boy do we live in a litigeous society. Everyone elses fault but our own.

gmranch I couldn't find any info/supplier... any help would be appreciated... thanks.
smile.gif

Jethro, do a yellow pages web search in the "propane & natural gas" business category for a supplier near you. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

how about a really strong chain and lock. You could put the chain around the frame and lock it to a light pole, etc. I think it might stop them from towing it.

Originally posted by Skeletor:
leave a really big and really pissed off dog in the back seat. but then you run the risk of gettin your seat covers tore up. I know a guy who would leave his pet snake on the seat of his 'Cuda.

For some reason I think I would rather have the "shock" than have a really big and pissed off dog chewing on me. Isn't that a law suit waiting to happen as well? I was talking with my friend about his dad doing the electrical charge deal and he was telling me it had something to do with capaciters. Kind of like zapped you if you touch metal.

one of our neighbors,when i was a kid,had an electric fence generator hooked up to his camping trailer.3second pulse and not positive what the voltage or current was,though i'm pretty sure it was 110.i do however remember leaning against the door of that freakin camper!
a 3 aecond jolt isnt fatal (ask the thousands of farmers that use electric fences)but it's something you wont soon forget!i'm not sure if the laws on those fences have changed,and some power source would be needed,but if you ask me the person that lays his hands on your property without permission,does so at his own risk.
i'm sure the law nowdays would disagree,but if you hear a loud scream,and no one is outside just walk outside and disconnect the leads!leaving the fuel shutoff or other security devices intact,and watch for the thief to return(they probably will),then deal with the problem as needed.disavowing any knowledge of the cause of the thiefs apparent discomfort,of course smile.gif .
Eric