: Black Oxide paint?
Apr 3rd, 04, 10:09 AM
Is there a paint out on the market that replicates the Black Oxide color that most of the hardware was coated with from the factory? And if so, will it hold up to high heat? Where do I get this stuff from? Thanks in advance...
Apr 3rd, 04, 11:04 AM
Check out http://www.eastwoodco.com. They are probably exactly what you are looking for and they'll send you a new catalog every 2 weeks. :rolleyes:
But they have some excellent stuff for things like what you are doing. It isn't necessarily factory correct stuff if your into that. But it is darn close and better in most cases. They have paints, sealers, electro-plating stuff, powdercoat stuff...
Apr 3rd, 04, 03:08 PM
If you can find it, Mar-Hyde's black satin trim paint is pretty close, and the stuff is bullet proof. PepBoys used to have it.
Apr 3rd, 04, 03:56 PM
I have done black zinc plating on some original bolts. Looks close, just a little shinier.
Apr 3rd, 04, 04:38 PM
Thanks for the info. I'll try and call Pep Boys in the morning being they are close. If not I'll try Eastwood. I was about to use the High temp flat Black, but got to thinking that would look kinda dark.
Tom if you are using orig bolts try dropping them into a glass with some CLR in it over night.
Apr 4th, 04, 05:22 AM
Those bolts are probably manganese phosphate. You can re-phosphate bolts and small parts using chemicals from Palmetto enterprises. I can get you the number, if you are interested.
Apr 4th, 04, 11:39 AM
Has anyone used any commercial platers where you can send hardware to have it chemically cleaned and then replated, whether it is phosphate, zinc or whatever? I am really not into some of these home brews? Speaking of home brews, are the very expensive paints that Rick's sells worth the high price? Thanks
What I suggested is more of a very intense cleaning with acids provided in a household cleaning solution. Where did the factory plating go on some of these bolts anyway? In many cases it's there and just covered in dirt and grime simple green won't remove. graemlins/beers.gif
Apr 5th, 04, 03:35 AM
I tried the home black oxide kit and I was very happy the first couple of days. Within a week the bolts had started rusting and I hadn't even gotting them wet! Funny thing is that you couldn't hardly scratch through the balck oxide to get to the parent metal but they still rusted up. I bead blasted them before the coating process too.
Apr 5th, 04, 01:05 PM
For you do it yourselfers, gun blueing will make them black again, but they need to be coated with something to keep them from rusting up again.
For the guys like me that might go the re-plate route, I sent a bunch of hardware to 'Steve Gregori' in Calif. Had bolts done in black zinc, hood hinges, springs, hood latch suppt. done in gray phosphate, and some silver zinc stuff done.
Looks very nice graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Apr 5th, 04, 05:30 PM
I used the same plater that Steve Gregori uses. $50 flat fee for 125 lbs, right here in town. He only does zinc oxide, gold and black zinc. No phosphates or cadmium.
Apr 8th, 04, 05:04 PM
I just want to speak up about the MANGANESE PHOSPHATE. I have done my home work and this is the RIGHT PROCESS. This is relatively easy and NOT expensive.....YOU may call it a home brew if you must, but its the same as a PROFESSIONAL would charge you big bucks to do.....I use a Colman Propane Camp Stove and a used Stainless Pot. Bought my MANGANESE and ZINC Phosphating Chemicals from PALMETTO ENT. out of Greenville, S.C. ph# 864-246-3836. Big City Chemical Distributors will also have same products, in larger quantities (for less money per qt or gal)
Anybody interested in MORE details on this, Email me and I'll send back my additional comments.....Chuck Sharin Seattle
Apr 9th, 04, 07:51 AM
You are pretty much right on CamarosRus. When I had my zinc phosphate done at plating shop they had a propane burner under a pot to do the zinc phosphate. graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Apr 9th, 04, 08:02 AM
I used the kitchen stove, while my wife was out. She came back early and caught me stirring some bolts. She took one look and said, You know you're a redneck when you cook bolts on the kitchen stove" and went upstairs. :D
Oct 18th, 05, 12:35 PM
I want EVERYONE to know that I'm a big proponent of cleaning and restoring your own MANGANESE Phosphate fasteners in YOUR OWN shop..............READ my above
Oct 18th, 05, 05:17 PM
I use the palmetto stuff also, both zinc and manganese phosphate. Did some today, actually. Pretty inexpensive, and relatively easy to do. There is a little bit of a learning curve, but not bad.
Parts have to be spotless, and bead blasting is probably the best way. And just like the original stuff, it wont hold up on its own. You can use a rust inhibitor product, like Boeshield, but they recommend that it has to be recoated after a few months. Me, I'm really not interested in having to recoat all the bolts on the car. I use a flat clear instead.
Oct 18th, 05, 10:30 PM
Dave, Will you say what brand of FLAT (ZERO gloss) clear you use........Ive heard that TESTORS model paint has small cans of aeresol FLAT clear , but never tryed it...
I figure that most trailer queen guys , will just keep the BoeShield routine up.......and it should last much longer than a couple months.........MUCH better than WD-40 which unfortunately is used way too much.............
See ya in NAshville at the FORGE this weekend??????? I'll be there...............
Oct 19th, 05, 12:26 AM
I use the Eastwood satin diamond clear. Unfortunately, its not totally flat, but pretty decent. Would still like to find a flatter clear that will hold up, without using a "real" paint, which would be very inefficient for just hardware. I talked to the guys at Boeshield, and it didnt sound like it would be a "permanent" solution. They said it would still need to be maintained, regardless. May be okay, dont really know. But there are hundreds of fasteners on a car that I personally wouldnt want to have to keep up with recoating. I would find it hard for me to trust the testors stuff, but once again, I cant really say without having used it. I dont think its meant to hold up to weather elements.
Youre completely right about the WD40. I use it to "displace the water", and eliminate the white streaking, as the instructions say once its removed from the solution. But it wont hold up, of course.
Ive experimented with it quite a bit, as far as holding up to the elements. The palmetto guys will tell you it'll hold up on its own better than a chrome plating according to their salt spray tests. It wont make it through one wet day, though.
Wont make it to the Forge show this weekend. Would like to, but not gonna happen this year. I did make it to the SCR8 this year, though.
Dont have much for pics right now of the hardware Ive done. Just these. The steering box cover, brake hose brackets, lower control arm, and engine mount bolts were done with the Palmetto plating:
If I can get to it tomorrow, I'll get some pics of before/during/after of some hardware done with it.
Oct 19th, 05, 01:05 PM
Dave , I like your frame paint.........Is that the STANDOX (???) which Ive never heard of.........Who/where do you buy it.........and is it a acrylic enamel with hardner and flattner............or a better Urethane...........
As I've said before Ive used the PPG DelStar acrylic enamel with GOOD intial cosmetci results, but I question its medium/ long term durability if car is going to be used MORE than just a trailer queen.............
Oct 19th, 05, 05:25 PM
Yeah, thats the Standox Rally Black. Its a single stage polyurethane.
Standox is a higher-end german paint mfg. You would just need to find a paint supply store that carries it. Chances are that there are some body shops or dealerships in your area that are spraying it. We're gonna finish out the Z with it, but switching over to the new Sherwin Williams.
Oct 19th, 05, 08:03 PM
Chuck, All that attention to detail, and a GREEN oil filter!!!! What's up with that? :)