: Cowl Induction Hood Seal
Apr 13th, 04, 04:47 PM
Does anyone have experience in the quality difference between a repro and a GM cowl induction hood seal? I ordered a repro instead of a GM ($20 as opposed to $66). I received it today and am not real happy with the way it looks. After installing it on the metal ring it is wrinkly around the inside. First of all I am amazed as to why they come turned inside out. Why do they come this way? It was wrinkle free until I reversed it to the correct position. This caused it to form a square shape until I put it on the metal ring. I think this is part of the reason it is so wrinkly. Do GM seals come turned inside out as well? I'm debating on whether or not to send it back and get a GM one but don't want to bother if I will have the same problem. Should I send it back or keep it? Also, can someone recommend the kind of glue I should use to permanently attach it to the metal ring? I haven't glued this repro one yet.
Apr 14th, 04, 04:06 AM
Larry they come inside out to save shipping carton space and cost of bigger box. Some have said they dont glue them down, since the hood holds them tight when its down. A simple 3M adhesive would still work.
Hope that helps
Apr 14th, 04, 04:48 AM
To me it really seems like they are molded inside out rather than someone turning them that way to save space. The repro I just received was nice and round and wrinkle free but was turned inside out. It also took up much more space in the box then if it had actually been purposely turned inside out. When I turned it to the correct position it took on a square shape that it has difficulty maintaining. If I let go it will just flop itself back to the inside out position. This is obviously because it was molded this way and that is the position it physically wants to maintain. I'm trying to force it to maintain the correct position it should have in the first place. It's like taking a bicycle tire and turning it inside out and expect it to hold that shape when you let go. Sorry for all the rambling here but I'm just baffled as to why these seals are not molded in the correct position to begin with. Maybe I'm missing something here but I'm confident that I have correctly installed the seal in the right position.
I like the idea of not gluing it but the bottom edge of it does not sit flush on the metal ring. No big deal when the hood is closed but when it's open at a car show, it will look like crap around the bottom inside edge. Guess I will have to glue it.
Apr 14th, 04, 07:34 AM
Stop worrying about a few wrinkles. They will come out over time.
They are probably manufactured inside out. It is very easy to flip them around when you get them. Takes half a second. "Flip" and you are done.
The seal will stay on very well by itself if you have it on right. The little rubber lip wraps around the outer periphery of the metal ring. No adhesive is required and none was used originaly. I am a worry wart so I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive on mine. The reason in my mind was that the seal could break or come off in some way and the place that it lands might be the headers. Now that could be very bad IMHO :eek: graemlins/sad.gif
Apr 14th, 04, 12:03 PM
Thanks stingr69. Sometimes my need to have everything perfect gets in the way. :D I'll just give the wrinkles time to work themselves out.
Apr 14th, 04, 04:14 PM
I've been told that the originals will "roll" out to form the seal, and that the repops will just squash straight down. I have no experience, but I have a GM one that I was thinking about taping in the rolled out position to make sure it takes a set in that position.
Apr 14th, 04, 05:09 PM
Adhesive WAS used originally, at least my 06A Z28 is, and i have owned it since 72 and it is a original survivor car with 42,000 miles.
Personally i think that if you glue it with weatherstrip adhesive and then flip it up side down and put some weight on it to compress the ring until the adhesive dries, it should take out any wrinkles. Hope this helps.
Apr 15th, 04, 07:27 AM
Interesting that you have adhesive on yours. The AIM usualy shows the lubes, adhesives, tapes, and such supplies on assembly drawings. I looked a while back and there isn't any adhesive shown in the AIM for that assembly. I may have missed it or perhaps some glue was used on it at one time or another.
Stranger things have happened I guess. smile.gif
Apr 15th, 04, 01:24 PM
When I removed my old original it was glued. My repop is definitely going to have to be glued to get it to set flush around the inside edge.
Apr 16th, 04, 04:02 PM
This is a shot of my repro seal which did not require any adhesive. I'm very happy with it.
I just have to wonder if those who are squashing their seals don't have the wrong spacer or to tall of a spacer for their intake that causes this. With my Holley Dominator II intake and a Holley 670 Avenger I have a 3/4 inch air cleaner spacer and the repro looks just as good today as the day I put it on (15 months ago).
This is the seal that was on the car when I bought it. Same intake, but a Holley 4160 and a 2" air cleaner spacer. Not only was the seal on upside down, but it was flatter than a pancake.
Apr 16th, 04, 05:04 PM
No glue repro, perfect seal performer intake w/eldebrock 600 and 1 inch spacer seals perfect http://img18.photobucket.com/albums/v54/Zuma1211/new_2004_motor.jpg