Hey gang, anybody have any success on refinishing a Muncie so it looks like a new(er) trans? I plan on taking my trans out for a general inspection and re-seal, but want it to look "restored" when it, and all the rest of the hardware goes back in. I'll pull bellhousing/shift linkage/clutch linkage/driveshaft, etc, but the trans is my question. Natural and clean? Cast Blast? Alumacast? Not sure. What works best? Thanks!!

Hey Chuck,
I bead blasted mine and then took an SOS pad with a little water to kind of dull the finish down a little. Probably not a "technically" correct finish but it looks good to me. The rebuild was a year ago and it still looks fine. I'm happy with the way I did it. graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Another option is send it to MacNeish and have him refinish it.
Hope that helps a little,
Doug

P.S. I put a couple of layers of duct tape on the stampings during the time the transmission shop was freshening up my Muncie. Didn't want them to get dinged up.

I haven't tried it, but what about cast aluminum mag wheel cleaner? I've heard you sqiurt it on and it foams up while cleaning. Outta work on intake too.

Those cleaners work to remove the grease and grime but on a non-polished surface they leave a dull residue. Bead blasting is the way to go.

I've used the aluminum wheel cleaner (non coated) and have had good results.

John

Bead blasting or glass beading leaves a light gray finish that is non natural. The original finish was a bit darker and can best be achieved by having the case lightly tumbled in a tumbler machine with steel shot. This leaves the case looking a lot more original than blasting. Only problem is that you need the entire trans apart to do this for the case and the tail shaft. That is of course not a problem if you are rebuilding the tranny. The other option is to have it reskinned where it is as near to original as possible.

I was fortunate to have a good friend do mine and he did a beuatiful job. He does 100's of these each year and can detail these to the nines. Here are a couple pictures when completed. If you want to send him one for a professional rebuild, I can send his contact info to you.

http://www.69zapper.50megs.com/images/M22%20Complete.gif
http://www.69zapper.50megs.com/images/Tail%20Shaft.gif

[ 05-12-2004, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: hugger_sixty_nine ]

I agree with Hugger 69 above. There may be a variety of home fixes to TRY and simulate the correct look, but nothing IS as original except metal shot blasting. MANY/MOST Foundrys put there sand castings (like a Muncie case) through a WHEELABRATOR shot blasting system to remove casting flash and sand. On the other hand the SIDE COVER and TAILSHAFT & Z-28 type Valve Covers are dye cast with a Smooth Finish.....After Glassbeading to Clean I have found a business that has a Vibratory DeBurring Tumbler that generally uses either Ceramic OR Aluminum "shapes" to rub up against the part and along with a detergent cleaner makes the part new...If someone EMAILS me who can host my pictures I'll forward my examples.....Chuck Sharin