blownNinjected
Nov 19th, 04, 04:35 PM
Is this car worth Buying (How much would you pay)? All opinions very much appreciated....
Sellers Description below then a few images to follow....
I will list as much as possible without dragging out every receipt. If you have further questions, feel free to ask.
69 Camaro built in L.A. Original marina blue, black interior, 327, power-glide, 10 bolt, power drum brakes. What I loved about this car, is the fact that it is an all original sheet-metal car that has never been wrecked or repaired. It also is the same base model they used for the COPO car. Thus my attraction to this car. I wanted a COPO/street strip clone. I tracked and found a correct date stamped (within 2 months) 427BBC 4 bolt main. Correct square port heads, standard/standard steel crank, dimple rods, etc.... The engine has forged speed-pro .30 over pistons. The block was machined, fully balanced, and assembled by one of the finest here in the Midwest, "Schmidt racing" You can go to their website if you are not familiar with them. The lower end was line bored, decked, drilled decks, (for improved cooling), and checked for integrity. The lower end was fully balanced from the balancer to the clutch. All within 4 grams. I chose to detune the compression from the factory 11.25 to 1 down to 9.8 to 1. I wanted this to be a nice show/driver. I'm not strapped to the local racing fuel pump. The Heads have been mildly ported and worked by Schmidt racing as well. They include all 2.19X1.88 SS swirled racing valves and three angle valve job then flowed. The Valve train is all Comp Cams. (Excluding the full roller rockers, Harlan Sharp) Comp extreme energy xe284h cam, 858-16 lifters, matching double springs, valve seals, hardened locks, keepers etc...Double roller comp t-chain and thrust button. Intake is an Edelbrock air-gap rpm supporting a 750 cfm Demon mechanical secondary carb. (Once on the dyno, we found it to be too small for top end HP. We bolted on a 850 cfm Holley that wasn't mine and gained another 27 hp
@6200rpm) Full MSD ignition system including 6al box currently with a 6200rpm chip, (it wants more) MSD billet distributor, 8.5 wires, held by billets wire loom holding plates. Very neat and tidy. Holley fuel pump pushing 7 psi through SS fuel line, earls micron filter and a-n fittings to carb. Full length Hooker Super Comp two and an eighth coated headers to 3.5 outlets. Full Mandrell bent 2.5 exhaust system with H-pipe and flowmaster 40s. This car does not sound like your typical flowmaster system. It SCREAMS at you on full acceleration and deceleration. As you are aware, Big blocks with big intake ports have a tendency to do that.
Very addictive. The engine is dressed with March aluminum pulleys and Chrome 100 amp 1 wire alternator. New power steering pump, new high volume water pump, new clutch fan, new correct radiator, hoses and shroud. It never gets to hot. It starts trough a new high torque starter and 2 gauge battery cables. Lots of heavy nice grounds as well. The electrical system is in full good working order. Even the reverse lights work. It starts on an Optima battery. I had the engine tested and ran on the dyno. It produced 512 HP @6200rpm. The torque was even higher at 3200rpm. Very strong midrange, then it wakes up again at 5300rpm to 6200 where the chip cuts it out. The Trans is a Muncie M-22 rock-crusher that was fully freshened up before install. I have an $850.00 receipt for that alone. Lakewood bell-housing and Ram clutch kit. All new shift linkage and shifter. Shifts into an Inland Empire 3.5 inch aluminum driveshaft to a 1350 yoke. The rear axle is a correct date stamped 12 bolt rust and pit free unit. It was professionally gone through at Mosier engineering. It has a new Eaton carrier, 3.42 street friendly gear, 33 spline mosier race axles, c-clip eliminators, and premium bearings throughout. The rear end is rated up to 900 hp. I didn't ever want it to break. $2500.00 later, I had the axle home. It is supported on mono-leaf springs, (which some guys would prefer to change) and has lift bars. The frame has been tied in (Bolt in style) to assist in traction and stability. Really helps in body flex. Can't say much for traction. Slicks would probably make all of the difference. The front end is all fresh including ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, 2.5 inch drop spindles, disc brake conversion, etc.... It is all very tight and handles good for a 35 year old car with a Big Block. The power-train is
2 years old and 1200 miles. Very fresh. It has only been on the track one time with the BF Goodrich tires to see how it would do in the quarter. I ran it 3 times. It never hooks in first no matter how you drive it. Feathering it out of the hole and finally standing in it by third gear, I ran a 12.2 quarter mile. Not bad considering it is a complete car, 3.42 gear, 4 speed, and BFG tires. I know that it seems like the car is border line race, but I built it for the love of the COPO clone and to eat rice burners. Plus it is a lot of fun to cruise and go to shows. I just wish my wife liked it. The paint is now 6 years old and has a few flaws. But I still won a first place trophy at the last show I attended for best muscle car. The interior is still sporting the original headliner and it looks great. It has buckets 4 speed console, auto meter gauge pod, 140 Speedo, and factory style tach. All new. Replaced the carpet, dash pad, and had the seats redone with grey in the center like hounds tooth style. New emblems and it looks good for
6 years old. The only thing I don't like is that the dash was already cut for a flat face radio. It also already had speaker holes. I went ahead and put a CD tuner and speakers in it. All of these items can be replaced with new O.E. style parts. I have enjoyed the tunes. It has a wood grain wheel. I get a lot of compliments on this original style wheel. The Heat works great as to I put the correct Big Block heater core / shrouds and covers in the car. It's not a cheesy make it work from small block to BB. All of the controls for climate control were cleaned lubed and reinstalled. The blower even works on all speeds thanks to a new switch. Items that go with the car are a really nice pair of tail light lens's, front lower spoiler (due to the current one is cracked) and a new pair of chrome quarter vents (go in front of the rear wheels on the quarter) you will see these items in the pictures I'll have soon. You will also see the original trunk splatter paint. I have not refinished this as to it proves solid rust free undamaged authenticy. I hope this covers all questions. I'm about strained trying to remember all of this. If you have further questions, please let me know.
Link to Images (http://66.127.166.100/pics/)
BlownNinjected
[ 11-19-2004, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: blownNinjected ]
Sellers Description below then a few images to follow....
I will list as much as possible without dragging out every receipt. If you have further questions, feel free to ask.
69 Camaro built in L.A. Original marina blue, black interior, 327, power-glide, 10 bolt, power drum brakes. What I loved about this car, is the fact that it is an all original sheet-metal car that has never been wrecked or repaired. It also is the same base model they used for the COPO car. Thus my attraction to this car. I wanted a COPO/street strip clone. I tracked and found a correct date stamped (within 2 months) 427BBC 4 bolt main. Correct square port heads, standard/standard steel crank, dimple rods, etc.... The engine has forged speed-pro .30 over pistons. The block was machined, fully balanced, and assembled by one of the finest here in the Midwest, "Schmidt racing" You can go to their website if you are not familiar with them. The lower end was line bored, decked, drilled decks, (for improved cooling), and checked for integrity. The lower end was fully balanced from the balancer to the clutch. All within 4 grams. I chose to detune the compression from the factory 11.25 to 1 down to 9.8 to 1. I wanted this to be a nice show/driver. I'm not strapped to the local racing fuel pump. The Heads have been mildly ported and worked by Schmidt racing as well. They include all 2.19X1.88 SS swirled racing valves and three angle valve job then flowed. The Valve train is all Comp Cams. (Excluding the full roller rockers, Harlan Sharp) Comp extreme energy xe284h cam, 858-16 lifters, matching double springs, valve seals, hardened locks, keepers etc...Double roller comp t-chain and thrust button. Intake is an Edelbrock air-gap rpm supporting a 750 cfm Demon mechanical secondary carb. (Once on the dyno, we found it to be too small for top end HP. We bolted on a 850 cfm Holley that wasn't mine and gained another 27 hp
@6200rpm) Full MSD ignition system including 6al box currently with a 6200rpm chip, (it wants more) MSD billet distributor, 8.5 wires, held by billets wire loom holding plates. Very neat and tidy. Holley fuel pump pushing 7 psi through SS fuel line, earls micron filter and a-n fittings to carb. Full length Hooker Super Comp two and an eighth coated headers to 3.5 outlets. Full Mandrell bent 2.5 exhaust system with H-pipe and flowmaster 40s. This car does not sound like your typical flowmaster system. It SCREAMS at you on full acceleration and deceleration. As you are aware, Big blocks with big intake ports have a tendency to do that.
Very addictive. The engine is dressed with March aluminum pulleys and Chrome 100 amp 1 wire alternator. New power steering pump, new high volume water pump, new clutch fan, new correct radiator, hoses and shroud. It never gets to hot. It starts trough a new high torque starter and 2 gauge battery cables. Lots of heavy nice grounds as well. The electrical system is in full good working order. Even the reverse lights work. It starts on an Optima battery. I had the engine tested and ran on the dyno. It produced 512 HP @6200rpm. The torque was even higher at 3200rpm. Very strong midrange, then it wakes up again at 5300rpm to 6200 where the chip cuts it out. The Trans is a Muncie M-22 rock-crusher that was fully freshened up before install. I have an $850.00 receipt for that alone. Lakewood bell-housing and Ram clutch kit. All new shift linkage and shifter. Shifts into an Inland Empire 3.5 inch aluminum driveshaft to a 1350 yoke. The rear axle is a correct date stamped 12 bolt rust and pit free unit. It was professionally gone through at Mosier engineering. It has a new Eaton carrier, 3.42 street friendly gear, 33 spline mosier race axles, c-clip eliminators, and premium bearings throughout. The rear end is rated up to 900 hp. I didn't ever want it to break. $2500.00 later, I had the axle home. It is supported on mono-leaf springs, (which some guys would prefer to change) and has lift bars. The frame has been tied in (Bolt in style) to assist in traction and stability. Really helps in body flex. Can't say much for traction. Slicks would probably make all of the difference. The front end is all fresh including ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, 2.5 inch drop spindles, disc brake conversion, etc.... It is all very tight and handles good for a 35 year old car with a Big Block. The power-train is
2 years old and 1200 miles. Very fresh. It has only been on the track one time with the BF Goodrich tires to see how it would do in the quarter. I ran it 3 times. It never hooks in first no matter how you drive it. Feathering it out of the hole and finally standing in it by third gear, I ran a 12.2 quarter mile. Not bad considering it is a complete car, 3.42 gear, 4 speed, and BFG tires. I know that it seems like the car is border line race, but I built it for the love of the COPO clone and to eat rice burners. Plus it is a lot of fun to cruise and go to shows. I just wish my wife liked it. The paint is now 6 years old and has a few flaws. But I still won a first place trophy at the last show I attended for best muscle car. The interior is still sporting the original headliner and it looks great. It has buckets 4 speed console, auto meter gauge pod, 140 Speedo, and factory style tach. All new. Replaced the carpet, dash pad, and had the seats redone with grey in the center like hounds tooth style. New emblems and it looks good for
6 years old. The only thing I don't like is that the dash was already cut for a flat face radio. It also already had speaker holes. I went ahead and put a CD tuner and speakers in it. All of these items can be replaced with new O.E. style parts. I have enjoyed the tunes. It has a wood grain wheel. I get a lot of compliments on this original style wheel. The Heat works great as to I put the correct Big Block heater core / shrouds and covers in the car. It's not a cheesy make it work from small block to BB. All of the controls for climate control were cleaned lubed and reinstalled. The blower even works on all speeds thanks to a new switch. Items that go with the car are a really nice pair of tail light lens's, front lower spoiler (due to the current one is cracked) and a new pair of chrome quarter vents (go in front of the rear wheels on the quarter) you will see these items in the pictures I'll have soon. You will also see the original trunk splatter paint. I have not refinished this as to it proves solid rust free undamaged authenticy. I hope this covers all questions. I'm about strained trying to remember all of this. If you have further questions, please let me know.
Link to Images (http://66.127.166.100/pics/)
BlownNinjected
[ 11-19-2004, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: blownNinjected ]