I have posted on here a while ago and said that my car wouldn't start. that it has the wrong prom but it should work. I thought it could have been the ECM and i've changed that, still doesn't come on. I found out that i could take off one fuel injector at a time and try to start it when it would finally start then i would have found a shorted fuel injector but that didn't happen. I have also replaced the electronic ignition control moduel. I also heard there are fuses for the fuel injectors but i'm not sure where they are, and were my fuses are down below the stering collum all of the lables are rubbed off and i cant tell what they go to. (my car is tunned port injection)

The car ran ok for a while, then it allways wanted to stall, and my father tightened up the metal gass line going into the engine and then it didn't stall.
i came home one day and it needed fluids so i put in oil and auto trans fluid and then it ran very rough, then after thatit wouldn't run at all, this happened around 2 to 3 months ago. what should I do??

The spark plugs are probably gas fouled. When attempting to start, hold throttle to the floor. As engine starts, let up on the throttle to not overrev the engine, but keep modulating the throttle to keep the engine running, if it starts.

Go to an auto parts store and buy a Haynes manual for the car. It will have a display of the fuse functions and where they are located within the fuse box.

Do theingition keys have a chip in the key? If it does, then the car has VATS. Its an OEM theft deterrent system. This means if the car does not crank over with the starter at the first attempt, wait a min of 3 minutes and try again with the same key. It should crank and might start with first paragraph method.

when i got the car the key that was given to me was actually a copy but it was a reg. key. so i dont know if it has that alarm on it. but when i fixed the stereo system and i turn off the car a couple of sec later it beeps like three times i don't know if that could be some type of alarm, but if you try to get into it no alarms go off. I tried to start the car with the gas pedal pushed down but no start, and i also did the wait three min but still no start.
what exactley should i look for in general when the car turns over but won't fire? I don't want to narrow my search down to just the inj. when it could be somthing else, so what should i look for? my battery neads to be jumped because of all of the work that i've been doing has drained the battery, and i just recentley bought the battery. i tell everything that i've done to it maybe that will help. When i bought it it needed new brakes i did that, then i had to put a wire straight to the fan and the fuses so that i could have the cooling fan on so the car wouldn't over heat, then the upper radiator hose blew, so we replaced that and filled it with fluid, and i have put gas treatment in and oil, and transmission fluid. Then i had to put the wire back in the fuse pannel and accidentally blew a fuse wich was to my dash and that was when the hose blew, my father put another fuse back in and it blew he said, so he put another in and it didn't blow. all of the fuses are good. then we put in a toggle switch so it would be easier to cool the engine. After that the only thing that i have done was put in a stereo system and then the last thing i did like 5 min, before it stopped was add oil and transmission fluid. then my father had it run ok then i tried to start it when it came on it ran very rough then died completley. whats wrong??

The beep after three seconds from shutoff is the stereo system beeping. Some brands/models have this feature.

I'd get a battery charger and recharge the battery or at least put the new battery in another daily used car to charge.

You might listen for the fuel pump to come on when the ign key is placed into RUN position. The fuel pump will run for 2 seconds when ign switch goes from off to run. During cranking, the fuel pump relay may energize to power the f/pump. Also, a parallel power path is through the engine oil sender. If the f/pump relay doesn't close, the engine wll continue to crank, thus, developing oil pressure. The switch closes and f/pump relay energizes and f/pump will pump fuel. The f/pump relay is located on driver side of engine comp on the firewall close to the hood hinge. The fuel pump is physically located inside the fuel tank.

so if the f/pump relay could be bad and i would have to get another one? i just checked my inj with a meter and there wasn't any ohms in the inj it's self but i m not sure what the ohms are in the fuel inj plug because of my battery, when i tried to crank it it was dead sothe reading jumped all over the place.

Do You Have Fire

Ohms are for contiunity and resistance. Volts are for energizing a circuit.

One side of the injector connector, coming from the harness will have fused & relayed battery voltage. The other wire in the harness connector will have an alternating DC voltage. This means it will occur too fast for the meter to register a voltage level, but, a change is good. This is suggesting the ECM is providing a low to energize the injector(s).

The ohmmeter across the injector itself should read 14-18 ohms.

Get the battery charged.

You should first make sure you have at least 44psi @ the injectors, make sure your fuel pressure regulator is operating properly, also check your i c m. This problem just happened to me.

NUMBER ONE . DO YOU HAVE SPARK AT THE PLUGS, # 2 DO YOU HAVE THE RIGHT FUEL PSI # DO YOU HAVE INJECTER PULSE AT THE INJECTER WIRE# 3 DO YOU HAVE COMPRESSION. IF NO SPARK IT COULD BE THE PICK UP COIL, ignition control moduel, OR COIL . NO FUEL COULD BE NO INJECTER PULSE,FUEL PUMP, FUEL PUMP RELAY,FUSE,

a friend of mine has an 86 IROC with TPI and he had sort of same problem. fuel pump relay was the problem, then about 6 months later, same thing happened except this time it was the fuel pump itself. that was a biiaaattcchh
to replace cause you have to pull the tank to get at it. that also involves dropping the exhaust system and dropping the rear end housing down. it was a pain in the A@$. good luck.

Wow, there is a lot to go through here.

First, an 86 will not have VATS. I do not think that started until the 4th gens. I might make sure there is no aftermarket alarm, but if it cranks, my guess is no or it is not an issue. (Edit: I stand corrected. In another thread, cor69vette stated his 89 Camaro has VATS. I learned something new. Still don't thikn an 86 had it)

You need, as others have said, start with basics. Keep the battery charged. Spark/fuel/timing/compression. Go buy a Haynes book and follow the ‘cranks but won’t start’ testing. Manuals are our friends. You are making expensive guesses. The $100+ bucks you spent on the ECM would have bought a nice set of factory manuals.

You also need to get everything up to guff. Wrong prom? What’s with that? Is it the right ECM? Has it run without issue with this ECM /prom setup? Is it the right ignition control module? Was the distributor out of the car?

Fuel pump relay – usually when these go bad, it will start, but hard start, meaning a lot of cranking to get the oil pressure up so the fuel pump will be triggered by the OPS. The relay only works in start mode, IIRC. If you have spark, no fuel, I would test this (and the OPS). One lead should be constant hot, another hot in key START position. The other two wires are grounds. Again, get the manual out, along with your test light.

I have concerns about your electrical system issues. Help me with this: “I had to put a wire straight to the fan and the fuses” and “Then I had to put the wire back in the fuse panel and accidentally blew a fuse which was to my dash and that was when the hose blew, my father put another fuse back in and it blew he said, so he put another in and it didn't blow. All of the fuses are good. Then we put in a toggle switch so it would be easier to cool the engine.”

What wire? The fan? What fuse blew? Why did it keep blowing then stop? Is the new fuse higher amperage? If so, stop there. Fire is bad. Regarding your revised cooling fan wiring, did you use a relay? How is the new fan circuit being protected?

Fans draw a lot of juice, especially when they first come on. They can spike over 20 amps at startup. That is why GM uses breakers or links instead of fuses protect them. (I actually had to add an in line capacitor when I added electric fans to my 82 T/A. It would actually cause a voltage spike and screw the idle up. I later read a TSB about the very same problem. But this isn’t your no-start issue.) There really should be no cooling fan wiring under the dash, it is not necessary: GM didn’t do it that way.

Let me step back a moment. I take it this car came equipped with the electric cooling fan. What is wrong with the stock wiring? Manual switches for primary cooling fans are a bad idea and

And yes, pulling the fuel tank out of one of these is terrible. Rear and exhaust need to come out, and it can be hard not to bend the filler neck. (nice design GM - not). And because they are a pain to get out, they are not the easiest bone yard find.

I empathize with your plight, you sound like me when I first started. Hang in there. Spend the $$ on manuals. Let us know how you make out.