The project is nearing completion and so far so good. The new engine was ran at 1500-2000 for 20 mins. as specified with excellent oil prssure. After fixing a few leaks, I'll be timing it and running it again, and then i'll change oil, etc. Any thoughts on the break in proccess?? how many hours/miles before the strip? I think I will check valve adjustment once... Also any ET estimates??
Here goes: 383 SBC w/ 10:1 flattops, dart iron eagle 200cc/72cc, Comp Cams XE274 Hyd. Flat Tappet, roller rockers, edelbrock performer RPM, Holley 650DP, HEI & MSD 6AL, long tube headers to cut outs (then 2.5" flowmasters), TH 350 worked trans, 3000 stall Oldani converter, shifting @ 5800-6000 RPM's, 8.5" Posi 3.73 all sitting on CE traction bars & subframe connectors, multi-leafs and BFG street rubber (for now) Thanks everyone...

12.7X-13.2X due to traction(street radials) and track prep.

We have a similar 406 in a 70 chevelle that runs 12.0s with a 2000stall and 373s, so I'd say you should be around there since you have a few less cubes and are probably a bit lighter then a chevelle. I do think that with tunin, tires and some track time it should go 11s

mid-12's when you get it hooking hard. High 12's maybe low 13's if it spins.

Sounds like a great street combo -- have fun cruising it -- the weather is just getting nice here.

Thanks all...I would be happy with mid 12's after tuning. It's going for paint next week, and I'm nervous about the torque/hooking up/crinkling the quarters thing when using good rubber. The weather is just starting to break here also, I think it may be 60 here for the first time since the early fall....

... and I'm nervous about the torque/hooking up/crinkling the quarters thing when using good rubber.

You don't need to worry about that unless your car is rusted, they're not that weak.

Combo is similar to mine also, you have a little more compression, bigger heads and more gear.

Hooking and tuned you should hit EASY 11's.

Heads cleaned up any?

The heads are not cleaned up as of yet. LOL- What kind of rubber do you run to get low 12's and what RPM are you coming off the line at??

NRmed , doesn't look like any one answered the break in part of your question, they got ya runnin 12's and you haven't seated the rings yet..which is what I was told to do with my motor after the cam was broke in on the my shops dyno. They told me to run the thing out on the highway for 40 minutes or so, load the engine, run it through the gears ( but don't be banging em ), avoid downshifting.
It sounded kind of vague to me but I guess they're impressing upon me to run it for a good while so you can establish a wear pattern between rings and cylinder walls?
I was hoping for a reply to your thread , just to compare to my instructions. I've yet to accomplish this myself, motor has been in since February and have been swamped with little **** ant problems , thankfully the weather has really sucked lately, except when I'm at work

The heads are not cleaned up as of yet. LOL- What kind of rubber do you run to get low 12's and what RPM are you coming off the line at??

I run 28x9 M/T ET Drag slicks, they are pretty old but still work for me. I load the converter to about 2k and it flashes to 2900-3000. 1.70-1.72 60fts.

Excellent, do you have stock rear fender wells?

Yes. I rolled the lip for my street tires, the slicks don't need it. Slicks are on a 15X7 rim. They will be a tight fit on lowered 1st gens.

i would say a 12.00 t012.50 first time out as for as break in goes i usely take it up to 60 back it down take it back up a few times then take it up to 100 and back it down from there it has always worked for me .now my race motors get down the return road to get the heat in the motor .go to burn out box and down the track