Convertible sag ??? [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Convertible sag ???


Dougs 69 cam
Apr 4th, 05, 04:29 PM
I was wondering what was the best way to fix convertible sag on my 69?I tried to get the doors lined up but there seems to be a larger gap on the bottom of the door next to the quarter panel than by the front fender.I do need to replace the front floor pans and wanted to fix the sag at the same time if possible?

Thanks Doug

Vintage 68
Apr 4th, 05, 05:17 PM
Doug;

Try a search for 'Convertible body' and check out past posts about this like - http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8899&highlight=convertible+body

This is a major issue with some cars and needs to be corrected with replacement of major structural parts such as the floor you mentioned and the side rockers in some cases.
The "Good News" is that these parts are now available :hurray:

Hope others that have/are doing this work chime-in also.
Best of luck on your project!

Eric Kammerer
Apr 4th, 05, 07:43 PM
Doug -

First, do you know the condition of your rockers, and whether the extra vert braces (one bolt-in "dogbone" under each rear interior panel and the bolt on X-brace underneath) are in place?

I had the same problem on because of rotten rockers on the 68, and actually had the rockers starting to stress crack at the front where they join the cowl. This was 5 plus years ago, before the convertible rockers came out in repro. The only thing I could do was weld in frame connectors. This helped with the overall structural rigidity, and took care of the sag. The 69 has good rockers, so I haven't done anything with that one.

If you're not planning significant horsepower and want things to be "original," the new rockers are the way to go.

Dougs 69 cam
Apr 6th, 05, 06:25 AM
The "dog bones"and the X brace are in place.I did notice that the striker plates in the doors are missing. The pass rocker looks good from the ouside be inside I can see alot of scally rust.
I have the front subframe out of the car and the rear end is still in it. I tried to lift the car from the center like the other post suggested but with the top unlatched and pressure in the middle of the car with the jack the was very little movement.
I am wondering if by not have the conv. door striker plates installed for about 20 years has allowed the car to move . It is between an 1/8 to 1/4 inch off at the bottom of the rear door.Any other suggestion on how to get the car back to where it should be?Should I put the front subframe and motor back in the car for the extra wieght in front?Or should I go ahead and remove the floor pans and see if I can get the car to flex back?

Thanks Doug

gene_sc
Apr 6th, 05, 07:51 AM
Doug before you start bend the car.... post some pics of the door gaps you are trying to fix. As well as the rusty area of the floor ... That way we can make sure we are not telling you to do the wrong thing. If you need a place to post them e-mail them to me and I will post them for you

gene_sc
Apr 6th, 05, 09:07 PM
Doug pics posted here...
http://www.islandbrokersrealty.com/gallery/album15


Doug
How do you have the car supported??? that much (thats not alot in your pics really) of sag is not uncommon when car is not setting on the wheels or supported correctly on a dolly
ect

Dougs 69 cam
Apr 7th, 05, 06:53 AM
Gene, I have the car supported by the rear end on jack stands and I have a 4x4 going across the front of the car roughly where the front sub frame was. The gap seems to be the same as it was when the car was on all four wheels.It does not seem to move or flex very much at all.I have the doors adjusted to look good at the top of the door. If I adjust the door to the rocker ,the door gap and top gap is off. I would like to make it right before I weld the floors in.

Thanks Doug

gene_sc
Apr 8th, 05, 09:44 AM
Doug
adjust them so they are parallel to rocker and then use a porta-power to move the cowl (if narrow at the top of door to 1/4 gap) or 2 clamps and a come-a-long (if wide at the top of door to 1/4 gap) to square the door opening

Dougs 69 cam
Apr 8th, 05, 06:19 PM
Gene, How would you go about using a porta-power to spread the cowl open?How would you set it up?Once I have it spead I should weld in the door brace and replace the floors right???It should stay after that right???

Thanks Doug

gene_sc
Apr 8th, 05, 09:17 PM
Doug you use the porta-power(to push on short dimension) or clamps and come-a-long(to pull long dimension) in and "X" in the door jamb. I would adjust the door so it fits the rocker and send me a pic of the gaps and I'll tell which way to push or pull on it...
when it fits then weld in some x braces in the door jamb and do your floors

Dougs 69 cam
Apr 9th, 05, 06:55 AM
Gene, the gap would be smaller on the top so I would have to use the porta-power. I was just wondering how you would use the porta-power on the jamb?Maybe use the porta-power and a block of wood in the jamb to spread the top apart?

Thanks Doug

gene_sc
Apr 9th, 05, 07:09 PM
Gene, the gap would be smaller on the top so I would have to use the porta-power. I was just wondering how you would use the porta-power on the jamb?Maybe use the porta-power and a block of wood in the jamb to spread the top apart?

Thanks Doug
Yep use blocks of wood at the ends of porta power so it doesn't bend the pinchwelds over. IF tight on the top put porta power from the top to the bottom of the "A" pillar. Go slow and check gap as you go. You will have to push it past straight to account for spring back.