i'm getting ready to switch my straight 6 to a 350. i'm building the 350 from the ground up to be very streetable but also pretty powerful, and it will be chromed out so much you'll need sunglasses too take a look. anywho, i need to know, can i use the motor mounts from my straight 6 on my 350?

I think you have to buy mounts for the V-8 at your local parts store

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Ryan
Camaro Racing

You'll also have to get the chassis brackets for a small block. Others here know the part numbers to get, however, one may roam the salvage yards and take those home for the change over.

Don't forget to change radiator, shroud, and throttle linkage. Everything else should be bolt-on, including ground straps from firewall to engine.

I did this swap to my first race car, even kept the P/G and column shift, "D" for Drag. Very consistent car, 14.2@101mph.

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph

The 8 will bolt on to the six frame mounts, but will sit much lower than normal. This may cause oil pan and hi-po fuel pump clearance problems with frame.

If the motor you're putting in is a serious piece, make sure to replace the fuel line from tank to pump. My car originally had a six, the wimpy 5/16 fuel line causes fuel starvation when at full throttle for sustained periods.

[This message has been edited by my69gofast (edited 07-21-2001).]

thanks for the help, i think i'll get some fancy motor mounts from jegs, and i didnt realise i had to change the radiator, i figured i'd have to change the housing, do you guys know of any reliable places i can buy the radiator and housing? i'll probably get a stainless 1/2" fuel line, so now i gotta add about $500 to the bill, DOH!

what was the reasoning on me having to change the radiator? is the cooling capacity just not enough for a 350?

chevybuilder,
you are correct. the six radiators are 1 or 2 core and the one you need is at least 3 core. i'm going through this now myself. good luck to you. you will also need to get all new brackets and pulleys, none of them will cross over as well as a harmonic damper(look for tips on installing it here on the site, i used the all-thread method). and you might have to put new coil springs in after the swap if you car sits too low. a lot of stuff, but worth it i think.

[This message has been edited by lola68rag (edited 07-24-2001).]

You'll need to replace the throtle linkage. The 6 uses a cable and different throttle pedal set up, like the cross ram cars had, the 8 uses a solid adjustable rod from the throttle pedal assembly.

alright i'm gonna give it a shot after i rebuild the engine, i do plan on switching all the pulleys over to billet aluminum. i'll check into that linkage, and i'll add a radiator to the bill. well when i get ready it'll be me, my brother, my dad a mechanic we know and a few other friends helping me out, so if any problems arise, rest asured we'll take care of them. thanks for the replies, this forum has been great to me.

You CAN still use the L6 throttle cable...my 68 was set up like this when I got it. The cable actually minimizes "slop" in the throttle. But to be correct, use the throttle rods. This is a three piece system you will have to change: the pedal support rod (that goes through the firewall), throttle control rod (adjustable, connects to the carb), and the throttle lever, which connects the two. I have not found an aftermarket source for the throttle lever, but they are out there to be had

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1976 Type LT (http://www.geocities.com/patgizz/76maro.html) Restification (in progress)

1968 2 door sport coupe (http://members.home.net/brownjs/cars/68camaro/68camaro.htm)...the toy!

1971 Camaro RS, all original, 1 owner...wife's baby! (http://members.home.net/brownjs/71rs.gif)

The Monday Nite Car Club! (http://mncc.freeservers.com) (New site)

well i can make parts if i have too, like linkage or a lever, but thats good to hear i can use the cable for my v8.