Hello all, I'm following up on my thread http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi/topic/19/578.html? on the old board. Slow coolant leak. Looked and looked and looked, couldn't find anything. Replaced the radiator cap. I finally found a bit of leaking around one heater hose fitting at the water pump, so I decided to replace all the gaskets and hoses I could get at.

I have the Helm factory manuals, vols I and II. Those guys seem to have quite a sense of humor. I've obtained the two water pump gaskets, the two little shaft seals that go in the coupler between the pump and the block, the two radiator hoses, new thermostat w/o-ring, and even the 4 air bleed pipe gaskets in case they're needed. I'll run to the store for whatever heater hoses I can get at, when I'm putting her back together.

Here's the problem. I've removed all the hoses from the pump, removed both radiator hoses from the radiator, removed the thermostat housing, removed the air pump. I've removed all three bolts from the left side of the water pump, two from the right side. But it looks like I have to remove the air pump bracket and then one nut from behind the airpump bracket to get the water pump off.

It looks like getting the airpump bracket off involves removing the distributor and detaching whatever that silver pipe is that runs under and around the distributor. I'm getting skeptical that the water pump is going to come off without the use of a jackhammer. Without removing the radiator I can't get much of a grip on the waterpump, and I don't want to yank it loose right into the back side of the radiator.

Once the waterpump is truly free of bolts and nuts is it going to slide off the shaft easily? Can somebody who's been through this let me know if I'm on the 5 yard line or the 50?

Help!

I just did this on my '95 Z28 this past weekend. I can't imagine that it's much different on that one since I've got a Haynes manual and the instructions I went by were for 1997 and earlier cars. I know you've done some of this already but I'm gonna list what I went through so please bear with me. I think the whole process took a few hours counting smoke breaks and things so it's really not bad. I think it was worse taking apart than putting back together.

First I drained the radiator. I detached all the hoses to the water pump. You're also going to have to detach the fan assembly from the radiator to allow for enough clearance to pull your water pump out and put the new one in. The book says to take it out completely but I just lowered it enough to clear the pump. You will have to get under the car to do this. Getting the fan assembly off is easy. Just take the top plastic piece off that covers the tops of the radiator and fan assembly and pull up on the fan assembly. All that is holding it on is tabs that fit in grooves so it will come right out with no screws to fool with. Then get under the car and work the fan assembly down to where it will clear the pump. Then remove the ignition coil over the AIR pump. Then detach the AIR pump (I left it hanging with everything plugged into it). Then you need to take off the AIR pump mounting bracket. You may need to unplug a couple wires from the distributor to gain access to one of the bolts for the bracket. Once all this is done you should have access to get your water pump out. Take out the 3 bolts on each side of it. I took a rubber mallet and smacked the pump a few times to break the gaskets loose on each side. It should come right out after that. Like the books like to say, installation is reverse of removal. Good luck.

Oh, btw, I'd avoid changing those heater hoses if possible. They are a major pain in the ass to change. I did that this past November. You have to go to the Chevy dealership to get them as the auto parts stores don't carry them and I think they cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $180. You'll have to take out your alternator, some ac lines and your battery to get it in and out since the majority of it is metal and both lines are welded together. Getting the sucker in and out is the biggest pain. You kinda have to be a contortionist (as with many things on this car, lol).

Thanks for the reply. Finally got the water pump out, I'd guess about 6 hours including scraping off the remnants of the OEM gaskets. Another 4 hours to reassemble. Sadly it turns out the water pump is shot, so I've got to go thru the whole circus again.


You're also going to have to detach the fan assembly from the radiator to allow for enough clearance to pull your water pump out and put the new one in. The book says to take it out completely but I just lowered it enough to clear the pump. You will have to get under the car to do this. Getting the fan assembly off is easy. Just take the top plastic piece off that covers the tops of the radiator and fan assembly and pull up on the fan assembly. All that is holding it on is tabs that fit in grooves so it will come right out with no screws to fool with. Then get under the car and work the fan assembly down to where it will clear the pump.

I removed the individual fans from the housing, I may try your method next.

Oh, btw, I'd avoid changing those heater hoses if possible. They are a major pain in the ass to change. I did that this past November. You have to go to the Chevy dealership to get them as the auto parts stores don't carry them and I think they cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $180. You'll have to take out your alternator, some ac lines and your battery to get it in and out since the majority of it is metal and both lines are welded together. Getting the sucker in and out is the biggest pain. You kinda have to be a contortionist (as with many things on this car, lol).

I figured the hoses going to the dash would be bad. I am hoping I can get reasonable replacements for the heater hose that runs from the pump to the lower drivers side of the radiator (the one that's "S" shaped) and the short elbow piece that comes off the top of the pump and goes into the pipe with the air bleed screw.

p.s. I hope you replaced the waterpump driveshaft oil seals (yellow o-rings, really). Mine were flattened and hardened. Only cost a couple of bucks each, and easy to replace.

Oh yeah, the Helm manual has a number of errors in the cooling system section. There's no flat gasket between the thermostat housing and the water pump. And there are 5 bolts and one stud holding the water pump to the block, not 4 bolts.

I figured the hoses going to the dash would be bad. I am hoping I can get reasonable replacements for the heater hose that runs from the pump to the lower drivers side of the radiator (the one that's "S" shaped) and the short elbow piece that comes off the top of the pump and goes into the pipe with the air bleed screw.

p.s. I hope you replaced the waterpump driveshaft oil seals (yellow o-rings, really). Mine were flattened and hardened. Only cost a couple of bucks each, and easy to replace.
I think the worst thing with the upper and lower radiator hoses and the oil cooler hoses are the clamps. Taking them off and on are a bit of a pain because of the tight clearances but the actual hose routing isn't bad at all. I replaced some of the really PITA ones with screw-on hose clamps since it's a lot easier to get a screwdriver in there to tighten them.
I didn't replace those oil seals and now I wish I had. I'm having some problems now that I think might be attributed to that.

I think the worst thing with the upper and lower radiator hoses and the oil cooler hoses are the clamps. Taking them off and on are a bit of a pain because of the tight clearances but the actual hose routing isn't bad at all. I replaced some of the really PITA ones with screw-on hose clamps since it's a lot easier to get a screwdriver in there to tighten them.


I've been replacing all the spring type clamps with the screw type. Even with the appropriate sized channellock type pliers, there just isn't room to get a bite on the spring type in that tight engine compartment. I found that an 8mm socket and 1/4" nutdriver handle were much better than a screwdriver for tightening those things. The slot in the cheapo clamps is pretty sloppy.

I didn't replace those oil seals and now I wish I had. I'm having some problems now that I think might be attributed to that.

Its the cheapest and easiest part of the process. I'm not convinced they serve much purpose other than keeping the pump shaft coupler from rattling and keeping dirt from getting onto the coupler splines and causing wear. I just used a jeweler's screwdriver blade to break the old ones off, since they had hardened up it was easier to break them than pry them out of their grooves and roll them off the shaft stubs.