After 20 some years, I am finally ready to resurrect my high school '68 Camaro.

I bought this car used with an inline 6 and a 3 speed in fairly rough shape. With much help, I rebuilt a boneyard 454, installed a cam, aluminum intake new Holley 850 single pumper, some headers and dropped it in with the 400 turbo it came with. A new coat of paint and some Cragars and the thing didn't look too bad. I never did have the funds to do things completely right - and now it has been sitting for 15 years or so.

A recent ride in an '05 Mustang GT (take note GM!) rekindled my need for V8 rear drive speed and now the research begins....

Having been out of this for some time, I could use a few suggestions regarding this project.

First of all - This car has manual drums all around. I did put in some new (at the time) big block springs up front and the car has air shocks in the rear - but the suspension is pretty much stock. I know I need the stopping power of disks up front. What is the hot set up that will not set me back an arm and a leg? What about suspension mods to help this pony car handle better? (It's got a 10 bolt posi that I plan to re-build with a 4.10 gear set.)

Secondly, I never did quite get the cooling system and charging system just right. Any direction on a kit to help the '74 HEI big block not over charge the battery would be helpful as well as a good electric cooling fan kit to keep it cool.

I am sure that I will have several other questions - but this is kind of where it all starts.

Any input would be appreciated...

ElbowJoe :)

Elbow;

First off - WELCOME to Team Camaro :beers: :thumbsup: :beers: :hurray:

When it comes to first rate information on your classic Camaro you can't find a better site or group of guys to help you out! :thumbsup:

As for your questions. First, you'll want to take an evening and read through your fellow Team Camaro member, David Pozzi's, great suspension site for First Gen. Camaros. Here's the link - http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm
His site will give you all the info you'll need to get your older era vehicle to handle, and even more important, STOP like any of it's later generation brothers!
Any questions on the infomation you find can quickly be answered by David and others with a post to this site.

As far as the cooling, do a quick search in the "Search" function using "overheating*" or "Radiator sizing*" and read through the results that come up - the answer will probably be in there already. (note: using a "*" as a 'wild-card' will get you many more hits on the subject!)

The same goes for the 'overcharging' question, although I'll state up front, it's not the engines fault ;) .
There are some great past posts about adapting more modern alternators and wiring for them in past threads.
Members will chime-in and give you answers to any problems or questions that come up when you get into it.

BTW - what area are you in? There may be a local member that would be willing to help you out if needed ;)

Hope this helps;

John

Hey John!

Thanks for the info! I'll do some research in the areas you mentioned. Wow. In looking at the various restores going on. There sure are some ambitious and talented Camaro Geeks out there. Great to be in their company.

I am in Ann Arbor, MI - GO BLUE!!

ElbowJoe

As John said... Welcome to TEAM CAMARO Joe!

I hate to keep saying it but you've made just about the best first step you can make in the quest for a Camaro that'll turn out the way you want it to. These Team Camaro forums, along with those of several other sites devoted to the First Gen. and performance F-bodies in general will probably overwhelm you with information. Which is a good thing! :)
Then you just decide which direction and how much cash you want to spend. If you're like most people who start a Camaro project, you'll triple the amount of time and money you initially intended to spend on it. ;)

If the question has been asked before, it's in one of the forums here. Practice with the Search function and I guarentee you'll find an answer.
:thumbsup:

Oh, and I'm glad you decided to liven up your '68 instead of blowing all that cash on the f*rd.

Welcome aboard for sure!

You are in the right place... I do not believe there could be a better, nicer, or more knowledgeable group of first gen lovers anywhere.

As was said, do some searching for info, or post your problems in the proper forum, you'll get answers and suggestions faster than you'll believe.

Check out our chat room too, been pretty busy in there most evenings.

Here's to another '68, out of the garage and back on the road where she belongs!

Aw crap! Go Blue my butt. Welcome to the TC sight anyway. As for the disk brake questions, I got the spindles, caliper mounts, and backing plates from a salvage yard, calipers from Autozone, and rotors from Pep Boys, as well as the bearings and seals. Do a search in the brakes section and there are some instructions on adapting the drum spindle to disk. Also check the classifieds for the brake parts you need. Unless you are looking for the high tech stuff, stock disk parts are still affordable. GO SCARLET AND GREY!

HwyStarJoe

Thanks for the reply. Nice garage. I got lost in it for about an hour or so.

Reading all this stuff is getting me more and more excited about this. I just hope I don't run out of $ before it's back on the road!

Don't worry about that Mustang. I am a Camaro man through and through!

Hey Codi.

Thanks for the tips. I'm thinkin along your lines of doing this thing affordably. Nice to know that there are still stock parts available without having to take out a 2nd mortgage.

Welcome aboard!

Please don't rebuild the old 10 bolt b/c it is weak behind a 454, imho.. Check into it here before you spend any money on it..

And I have about got my "restification" done on my car but it's still not on the road..

406 SB to a 496 BB motor and bigger aluminum rad.

New about 500 and 150 pound h-d springs and KYB Gas-A-Just pressure shocks all around, a bigger front sway-bar and one on the rear that I don't know if I will keep on or not?

Jegs bolt-on subframe connectors and hard poly pads.

Full poly everywhere. (My car no longer has hardly any factory rubber left on it at all b/c it was almost worn out over the years anyway)..

Fast ratio power steering from fast ratio manual stock.

And my "pdqCBB" 13" and 11.75" disc brake conversion and, finally, (He, He!!), my new Pony Car 17" x 8" Bullitt rims with 225 and 255/45-17 MODERN tires to complete it!!

THE deal here is MODERN BRAKES, TIRES and WHEELS is all!!! (And not just my one-off different stuff!!)....

Please note that I use the term "restification" so that it means making my car accel., handle and brake like a new car!!

You can pick and choose how "hardcore" you want to go but generally a lot of our cars are at this level now after their restorations, aren't they guys??

pdq67 (350SS/RS, M-20 and 12 bolt posi- car).

PS., and the deal with subframe connectors are that they REALLY tighten/stiffen up our cars b/c they aren't true uni-body or full framed! But are half-and-half!

You are going to start the frustrations and joy's of working on the soon to be "love" of your life!! Just like me and so many here....

GREAT GOING!!!

Welcome to the best site on the net ElbowJoe!

There is tons of great info here! Pull up a chair, drinks are in the fridge.

Swapping to disk brakes would probably be my first step as long as the rest of the suspension is ok. Get the car to be able to stop and drive straight, then on to power and cosmetics.

:cheers:

Hey PDQ67.

Thanks for the reply.

A couple (or so) questions regarding the subframe connectors. 1) I went to Jeg's site and found 2 Competition Engineering units. One is a weld-on the other is a bolt-on. My gut tells me that weld-on would be stiffer and therefore better in the long run, but on the other hand the bolt-on would install easier and would require less rust prevention measures after the install.

The Jeg's units are solid aluminum. I like the thought of annodized aluminum. They may be better/lighter... but the description makes me think they would not use the poly bushings but a solid "sturdy Jegster subframe connector". Great for the strip - but I plan on making this into a street cruiser. Thoughts?

2) I saw the poly body mount bushings in black and red. What's the difference - just color?

I am not a stickler for a full blown resto. I will be happy just to get this thing back on the road with some good handling and stopping characteristics.

One other thing. In your opinion, if I simply put some new disk binders up front, would it be OK to stay with the stock drum units in the rear?

Thanks for the input.

Joe,

As far as bushing color, it's a matter of taste, not function. They're the same. For your intended plans for the car, I wouldn't bother with solid bushings. Poly all the way around is fine.

The subframe connectors have a couple more differences than just 'weld-in' or 'bolt-in'. The bolt-in type don't require you to modify the body or frame in any way, except for drilling a couple holes in the ends of the subframe for some cross bolts. The weld in type usually require you to cut channels in the floor above the connectors and other fabrication\welding to fit them properly. But you're correct in thinking that the weld-ins will stiffen the chassis more than the bolt-ins. I used the bolt-ins and plan to beat the living snot out of my Camaro. If I have a problem with them or detect too much body flex (I also used solid body mount bushings), I'll just weld them in. I don't want to channel the floors.

For daily cruising, factory disc brakes are fine.

I am not a stickler for a full blown resto. I will be happy just to get this thing back on the road with some good handling and stopping characteristics.

One other thing. In your opinion, if I simply put some new disk binders up front, would it be OK to stay with the stock drum units in the rear?

Thanks for the input.

Elbow:

Not sure if you want 'Pdq' to respond or if you want input from others, but, here goes...

A.) "back on the road with some good handling and stopping characteristics"
I believe that is the aim (oh - btw, get yourself a copy of the A.I.M.=Assembly Instruction Manual. available from most of the repoppers, including our site sponsor 'Ground Up Restorations' - their link is at the top right of screen! now, back to the reply...) of the majority of the folks on this board. Their are several that have original, numbers matching and highly collectable cars and their goal is, as it should be, to keep them fully original - we support them fully :thumbsup:
If your plan is to drive and enjoy your car to the fullest it is very important to bring it 'up-to-code' as far as the driveline, suspension and braking systems are concerned! This way you can fully enjoy your cruising and feel confident in the vehicles abilities. The braking abilities of these cars, like you said in part of your earlier post, makes getting a first gen. stopped after a 100mph(+) jaunt is a chore at best - and can really lead to some hair-raising events :eek: - "been-there-done-that" myself to often, years ago...

B.) Even the original factory Disc brake set-ups leave something to be desired in comparison to the modern offerings. My '68 rag-top had 4-spot factory disc.s, but is now a modern system and all the better for it.
As far as your inquiry about the Upgraded Disc front and stock drum rear set-up, that is way the majority of systems I have upgraded for people have been done and it yields a perfectly functional brake system for normal cruising and occational high performance function. I have always completely rebuilt the rear system and replaced the brake shoes with a higher performance lining compond when I've done these systems. This gives the rear system a good feel when compared to the new front end braking performance.
These cars are typically quite light in the 'tail' compared to many and it is relatively easy to upgrade the rear braking performance with newer disc set-ups to the point where a pressure regulating valve would have to be added to prevent rear wheel lock-up during slightly heavy braking events.
Using a good quality friction material, new brake hardware and new stock hydraulic braking components will give you excellent street performance and not require any major system changes.
Following David's advise, on the site in the earlier link, for changing the front system to a common GM disc system will give the street performance braking feel you are propably looking for.

My advise would be to upgrade the front system with a disc swap and rebuild the rear system to near stock, with the exception of new friction compounds, and drive the thing! This will allow you to quickly get the car safely on the road and enjoy it.
If, in the future, you find yourself desiring more braking performance in certain situations you can make a decision then how much more brake you really want to add.

As always JMHO;
John

John-

Thanks for the advise! :beers: I can see now that this will be a long term evolving project. I like the idea of making the car driveable and then I can always change direction with other upgrades as time and $ permit. Hey that's what these cars are all about aren't they. :cool:

I just checked out and downloaded the catalog for Camaro parts from GUR. I will also be checking into that A.I.M. as you suggested.

It's like coming home looking at all this stuff again. What a great group of people and a wealth of info on this site! :D

Thanks again!

Joe