View Full Version : Centerforce DF question
NC69RS May 9th, 05, 09:27 AM I have had a weird thing happen twice now and was woundering if anyone else had experienced this or knows what may be happening. While running through the gears I went from 2nd to 3rd about 6800 rpm and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor and the motor reved like like the clutch was disengaged. After letting off the gas, with the car still in gear it engaged and the pedal came back and continued driving and shifting normal. Any ideas what is going on?
The linkage is not binding or hitting anything, it seems to be in the clutch.
Thanks!
GreyShadows May 9th, 05, 09:31 AM i have the same clutch never had that problem but then i never rev it to 6800 rpm either :eek: not sure if that has anything to do with it tho.
NC69RS May 9th, 05, 09:39 AM I thought it may be rpm related, I was thinking the weights on the pressure plate may be sticking. Sometimes I have noticed after making a quick blast with the car through 3rd then stopping the clutch would disengage differently closer to the top of the pedal. But then after normal driving it would go back to normal position. I just recently went to this TKO from a auto and don't have much experience with clutches.
GreyShadows May 9th, 05, 10:11 AM Give centerforce tech support a call maybe they have heard of this before
RickD May 9th, 05, 11:05 AM I used to have that problem with a Zoom setup. At higher revs, the fingers on the pressure plate , over time, had lost some of their clamping pressure and couldn't counteract the centrifical force.
69ProTouring May 9th, 05, 11:21 AM I've shifted at 7000 with my DF and never had a problem.
NC69RS May 9th, 05, 01:04 PM I spoke with Centerforce and they think there is some sort of clutch fork geometry issue, causing binding with the release bearing. Maybe, but it seems to me that it would do it more often than twice in 6 months. I'm going to take a look at it when time allows.
GMJim May 9th, 05, 04:45 PM The little weights on the fingers are supposed to prevent this and apply more clamping force at high rpm. If the weights are pushed in too far (overcenter) they can have the reverse effect and centrifugal force will hold the fingers in and the pedal to the floor until rpm drops and reduces centrifugal force to the point where the spring pressure will allow re-engagement. If you have NO BINDING issues, try adjusting the clutch to increase free play at the top of the pedal but be careful to allow proper disengagement when the pedal is pushed down. Usually a good test is to push the clutch in at idle and count to 5. Then put it directly into reverse. If it grinds you may not have enough disengagement or a sticky pilot bushing/bearing. Test two: Start the car in reverse. Idle with the clutch disengaged, put it in neutral. (keep the clutch depressed) Wait a few seconds then put it back in reverse. Any grinding will indicate improper disengagement. You may have the wrong geometry as Centerforce suggested but I think it's an adjustment problem. Check to see where the linkage is in the pedal. You may have to move it closer to the top to reduce the length of actuation. You shouldn't be flooring the clutch when power shifting at that rpm even with a centerforce centrifugal clutch. Just tipping it enough to change gears is all you need and it's safer too.
I just re-read your post. TKO's don't shift well over 6000 rpm just ask Tremec! This could be related to the clutch hang up. The extra time the tranny takes to synchronize the next gear could be allowing the engine to rev higher then the clutch was designed to take?
Jim
NC69RS May 9th, 05, 06:34 PM Thanks Jim!, I tried both quick tests and it seems to be releasing fine with no grinding in reverse. I then drove the car and while in gear I slowly pushed the clutch to find the disengage point and its almost in the middle of the pedal stroke. I also was rolling in 2nd about 30mph and floored it and it broke loose and spun to 7000 rpm and shifted perfect to 3rd and continued spinning and pulling as it should. Most of the time it works fine. I will have to check the linkage and fork next. There's nothing like rowing through the gears blowing the tires off. I'll soon be going to the track and don't want this problem showing up there.
GMJim May 9th, 05, 08:32 PM If your disengage point is in the middle of the pedal travel then it sounds like the adjustment is too deep. It should engage just off the floor and you should have about 1-1/2" of free play at the top. If it's disengaging 1/2 way down then it's possible you are over extending the diaphram when the pedal reaches the floor. This might explain the over centering of the weights. Some clutch pedals have two positions for the linkage. Putting the linkage in the wrong hole combined with the wrong release bearing might cause the over travel. Try to set it up the way I described.
Jim
GreyShadows May 10th, 05, 07:43 AM I agree Jim that pedal definately shouldnt be releasing in the middle of the travel that needs to be adjusted for sure
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