Who has done this conversion? How about a convertible 69? How far did you move the rear crossmember/support? What mounting pad/assembly did you use?

Any help much appreciated.

I did it on a 67. I order a transmission cross member from bowtie overdirve and it put everything in the rite place. You will also need a bracket for the TV cable and you will need their adapter for the carb so you get the cable at the right angle. Once you get it setup it is fool proof. There are lots of post on this subject in transmission section. Good Luck Jerry

Steve I did it, I converted my 69 vert from a 4 speed to a 700R4. For the crossmemeber I used Bow Tie Overdrives. It is made to mount up to the factory holes it was a real life saver. I had a local shop shorten the driveline. For the pad I used a sotck GM rubber before I switched over to poly pad. Off hand it was real easy since I had everything on hand to make the change. If you need anything let me know as I can help you on this one. I posted to your console question above.
Let me know what else you need,
Mike

Same here: Converted my 68 to a 4L60 (externally same as 700R4) using Bow Tie Overdrives crossmember. Energy Suspension poly pad. Everything lined up A-OK.

I was especially impressed with Bow Tie Overdrive's new clicker cam for the horseshoe shifter and the 4 speed bezel.

More help please.....

I have all the parts figured out now.......but trying to remove the Muncie from the car/engine is impossible with the crossmember installed. I have tried to remove the tranny from the bellhousing and then want to remove the crossmember. How the heck does the crossmember come down?

I have tried to move it forward, backward, sideways....everyway but cut it down? What's the trick?

The crossmember must be turned at an angle and forced out with a BFH.

The crossmember must be turned at an angle and forced out with a BFH.

========= yep

Ditto on smackin it with a preferably dead blow BFH. Right side as I recall seems to work best. Hit it 'til the right side pops out then maneuver from there.

Well let me ask this question. Is there anything wrong with just loosening the four body mount bolts to give enough room to slide the crossmember simply sideways instead of beating on the thing???

Also, does the Bowtie crossmember mount sitting on the top of the frame such as the Muncies...or bolt in from the bottom?

I have never loosened the body bolts for that purpose but have read here at TC where others have done just that. May have to loosen just the right side. I can say it was a lot easier with the shifter (Comp Plus) off last time I had the Sag out of the '67. Put the left side forward and right side rearward to work it out. The Bowtie x-member sits on top like the stock unit but I don't recall it being quite the wrestling match.

My Muncie crossmember comes out fairly easily. It it best to "spin" it out, move one side towards the back, and the other side toward the front of the car.

I used my Muncie crossmember with a 700R4, and now with my TKO, by just sliding it back and using the front holes of the crossmember on the rear holes of the subframe. You may have to trim the edge slightly for access to the rear transmission pan bolts.

Ray

Refresh my memory. Do the body bolts come out without access to the interior. I say they are cage nuts...so they are welded in?? It's been too long since I played with the 69.

Thanks...

The bolts are standard 1/4" bolts that go through the frame and a nut and a lockwasher. Easy access from under the car.

"The bolts are standard 1/4" bolts that go through the frame and a nut and a lockwasher. Easy access from under the car."

Huh? The body bolts go thru the frame ...then a NUT and lockwasher? I thought the BODY bolts (not crossmember bolts) go thru a washer, rubber/urethane donut, frame, another donut, body, the captured by a caged nut that is welded to the body. Does this sound correct? IN other words...will these body bolts come out just from the bottom...no top access under the carpet etc?

Your description of the subframe bolts sounds correct. The only reason you might need to access them from the inside is to blast them with liquid wrench. But the nut is caged and if they aren't too corroded you should be able to break them loose with an impact.

What happens is over the years the body mounts break down and consume the space between the subframe and floorpan making crossmember removal a pain. Loosening one side will allow you some breathing room to remove the crossmember.

Okay......crossmember is out, easiest way I see is loosen the body bolts and it comes right out!

Another quick question on shifters. I have the standard 3 speed "H" handle shifter with 700R hardware to convert the shift detents but am thinking more along the line of a rachet shifter that looks nice. Will these ratchet shifters work with the now stock cable assembly that I have?

Thanks as usual.

I think most ratchet shifters come with their own cable and bracketry.

I use the shiftworks kit with my stock shifter and 2004R, and it works great.

Quick question on the Bowtie Overdrive's crossmember. Since this thing did NOT come with any paper work other than the bill.......which way is this thing oriented to go in.

The website shows the crossmember like this.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/pictures/XMEM-6875NOVA.GIF

That seems to me upside down and the double holes on the mounts are towards the back??? That's the only way I can get 22.5" from the engine backplain to the crossmember. Does anyone have pictures of theirs installed?

No picture, but the flats slide up on the tops of the frame rails, and the horsehoe shaped part with the mount tab goes to the rear of the mount. At least that's how it went in on my 2004R.

Actually the 700r is different than the 200. I measured and the crossmember can only go in one way with the 22.5" span that I need.

The picture above is upside down and the "cup" portion that sticks out from the member will go forward. This aligned in two holes only.