OK i know this is the wrong forum, but since you guys know just about everthing, i figured that a motor is a motor, and you might be able to help. I have very little experience dealing with a points distributor and that is my problem I believe.

Ive got a 70 HP chrysler boat motor with what I think is a problem with the distributor. When i turn the key to the ON position it makes a buzzing sound from the distributor, like a bee is stuck in the cap. This is a points style distributor with the condenser located on the other side of the motor.

The motor will start but idles like crap. the timing is all over the board, and keeps missing firing on all cycilinders. hooking up the timing light and watching the firing it is like blink.blink.blink.....skip....blink..skip....skip. ...blink...blink...skip...blink...something like that,,,,, It has very little pick up, if any..

My thoughts are. bad points or condenser. anybody think im on the wrong path here?

Today I made sure all plug wires were properly in place. replaced a couple of end caps and cleaned contacts. took out the points and cleaned them up as well. Still no difference in performance.

Usually on points ignition, if the points are closed and key is ON, current flows through the coil. If the coil hums, then it is breaking down.

Good ground from the dist body to engine case?
Does it hum with dist cap on?
Does it hum with condensor disconnected?

Here’s what I’d do:

Make sure the ignition system is being supplied adequate voltage. Most point/condenser systems (at least on cars) operate at around 7-8 volts in the run position.
Replace the points and condenser. The points/condensers are normally the weak in link in this type of ignition system, and are fairly inexpensive. Be sure to gap the points properly and lubricate the rubbing block.
Check the distributor cap and rotor for cracks, corrosion and moisture.
Check the plug wires for cracks, including the coil wire.
If an ohmmeter is available, ohm out the plug and coil wires while moving the wires. You’re looking for an open in the wires – resistance up to 20-30K is OK.
Check the plugs and replace if suspect.
Recheck the timing - adjusting the points gap will affect the timing.
Hope this helps. Good luck!!

I took out the condenser and have one on order. hopefully ill recieve it fri and get it installed this weekend. The coil does not do the humming. It must be the points humming or there is current arcing inside the cap. ive went though the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. So i only have the condenser, coil, and electrical cd box left to narrow it down to. Im hoping that it is the condenser.. ive got a fishing trip in 2 weeks that is looming ever so close.

Take the high tension coil lead out from the dist cap and place 1/4 inch to ground. Turn on ign key, open and close point set with Popsicle stick.

Every time you open the points, a spark should occur at the gap. If not, then CD box is bad. Then problem is not ignition, at least secondary and primary side.

However, as Lukewarm suggested, point gap does set timing.

put the new condenser in it, but it turns out that is not the problem.. found out in another chrysler boat forum actully. the CD unit is apparently bad. placing a spark tester on a wire and manually turning the motor over it eventuly will get to the point where it sparks continously, indicating a bad spark module.. unfortunatly they are $310 new.. but at least now i know what direction im heading..

Reads to me like you have points and a coil, meaning the CD unit could be an add-on.

I'd rewire it to run points with no CD and use a ballast resistor on the primary side supply to the coil. Think of an automotive ignition system using a point set and coil.