I have a 327 .060 over, 292/480 cam, 650 holley double pumper, supposedly a 2200 stall, 3.73 rear gear flat top pistons and compression ratio is about 10.5 it runs fine after about 2000 Rpm, but it wont even bark the tires from a dead stop. Part of the problem might be that it isnt stalling like it is supposed to. it comes in at around 1500 rpm. With this cam, would it have to stall more than that to get the most performance? I have tried a 1800 stall when i installed the tranny after the rebuild, and it didnt stall at all so i went to the 2200 stall and it doesnt stall much more that the first one. when flooring it from a complete stop, it takes off kinda sluggish like and then gets up and goes after 2000 rpm or so. Any help would be greatly appreciated

I can't help to say that if everything else is right,,, More stall,, 3500+?

Now lets see how many disagree.

Just for grins and giggles. disconnect the secondaries and see what happends. I had a 650dp on a 327 before too and it was way to much carb. I had a 4sp then too.

I agree that it sounds like the weak link is the torque converter. Just off the top of my head, I would say that the right converter would be about a 3500 converter(just a guess right now). What is the duration at .050? The relatively low valve lift with the high advertised duration makes me think its an older school grind(lots of seat duration but lazier lobes, not a ton of valve lift and not super high duration at .050 in your older grinds). But, even so, a 230 degree cam in a 327 is very big and will need a lot of converter and I would suspect that cam to be around 230 ish. I could be wrong and it could be more, but I doubt much less at all.

Either way, it needs more converter with a cam like that no matter how you slice it. Either way, post the camshaft specs(most important) as well as the intake manifold and heads(list what port size if they are aftermarket heads and if the are stock heads, were they worked on and what cast are they). What is your timing set at as well? To sum it up, there might be a few little things that arent totally right with your combo(possibly the heads and/or manfold....dont know yet), but for the most part it sounds pretty well except for that converter. Thats the biggest thing holding you back. Im surprised it even starts to pull at 2000rpm really.

292 is a huge cam.......thats the bumpstick in my 402, my lift is .550 with 244 degrees on the I/E at .050 on a 110 LSA......and its choppy, has to idle at 950 ish .... whats the LSA on that grind...... i would say its 112 or better.....

even so, i say you need steep gears or a TC in the 2800-3800 range depending on the gears...

The cam is a lunati part # 00010. At .050 degrees it is 230 lift and 292 duration. the grind # is bm-11. I have an edelbrock rpm perfromer with the opening down the center under the carb (forgot the correct name), and world heads 2.02/ 1.6 with bigger ports than double humps. the combustion chamber is 62 cc i believe.

To much duration and not enough compression Thats alot of seat timing compared to your .050 number sound like a very slow opening and slow closing cam events.

The cam is a lunati part # 00010. At .050 degrees it is 230 lift and 292 duration. the grind # is bm-11. I have an edelbrock rpm perfromer with the opening down the center under the carb (forgot the correct name), and world heads 2.02/ 1.6 with bigger ports than double humps. the combustion chamber is 62 cc i believe.


something doesnt sound right, 230 lift?

here you go.. you need a converter and gears bro..

HYDRAULIC, Decent idle with strong mid-range power. Needs street converter and headers. 2000-6000
292°292° advertised
230°230° duration at .050" lift
.480".480" max lift
.320".320" lobe lift
109° Sep LSA
107° Int C/L

I'm thinking he means 230 duration @ .050, 292 advertised.

I'd wonder where your timing is, not enuf initial advance will kill the low end ina hurry.

Another thought, with a DP, you gotta be smarter than the spring (ina vac sec carb) if you're hammering it from idle, the velocity in the manifold may be droping too low. What happens if you give it half, then ease it down as it starts to rev?

Definitely sounds like an "old school cam" The excessive low lift duration kills off some dcr, without actually providing any usable airflow. Kinda similar to my stock L30 cam, adv. duration on that is over 300, but .050 was under 210.... even so, my 327 had no trouble burning the tires from an idle roll. It would break em loose at about 2200, and burn em hard. (after I put on some dart heads.)

Your compression is closer to 9:1, which is a bit light for that cam. The rear gears are ok, but a 3000 rpm or so stall convertor would make a world of difference. Are the heads the s/r torquers, or the sportsmans?

Yeah, flat tops in a 327 with 62cc head wont make 10.5:1 compression. Heck, flat tops wouldnt make that in a 350(well, the average flat top with valve releifs would not). Anyways, its definitely gonna take roughly a 3500 converter, and although the 3.73 gears arent bad, Id go with 4.11 gears if its in the budget and you will need a lot of initial timing. Probably no less than 12 and more like 16 degrees initial.

I'm thinking he means 230 duration @ .050, 292 advertised.

I'd wonder where your timing is, not enuf initial advance will kill the low end ina hurry.

Another thought, with a DP, you gotta be smarter than the spring (ina vac sec carb) if you're hammering it from idle, the velocity in the manifold may be droping too low. What happens if you give it half, then ease it down as it starts to rev?

Definitely sounds like an "old school cam" The excessive low lift duration kills off some dcr, without actually providing any usable airflow. Kinda similar to my stock L30 cam, adv. duration on that is over 300, but .050 was under 210.... even so, my 327 had no trouble burning the tires from an idle roll. It would break em loose at about 2200, and burn em hard. (after I put on some dart heads.)

yes sir, see my last post
not so sure timing is going to help the low end on that cam.....look at the specs of that cam.... its on a 109 LSA and it has a "lopey" duration...not alot of lift, if using stock rockers....... but still...

he needs converter.....and some tuning wouldnt hurt

factors that effect "stall speed"
CID
weight
size of converter
camshaft profile
gears
exhaust(see torque)
TORQUE!

here this is for the torque converter illiterate-

http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/selectingconverter.html

You haven't changed your harmonic balancer to a newer 8" have you ?
If you have, you need to add about 8* to your timing. The reason for this is, on the keyway on the crank is at 2* and on the newer cranks it is at 10*. I'm not sure the exact difference (I'm sure it can be calculated) But I would start out by adding 8* to your base timing !

I have to have the timing at about 10 or higher or it wont even run good at idle. If i give it a tap of the gas pedal, and then floor it then it will rev up just fine. If i only have 9:1 compression ratio now, what did i have when i had the stock 72cc combustion chamber?

is the 650 puddle dumper set with factory specs...jets, nozzles,cams, PV, etc?....with your last post, sounds like you need some tuning on the carb..

how is the carb set up now?

The stock compression with the double humps should be 10:1 so I'd guess,
stock with 72cc heads would be about 8.5 to 9:1.

I have added the bigger accelerator pump to help the lean condition. if the timing is down around 6 or so, it will backfire out the carb.

I'm starting to wonder about your timing. Don't think it is where you think it is... it shouldn't backfire and die till you're a few degrees retarded...you should get a (bad but) stable idle at 6, or even 4....


maybe put the light in the cabinet and twist the distributor till it runs right?

If it runs better at 10 degrees, than dont go below that. Id suggest bumping it to 12 and then trying that. Then bumping it to 14 and trying that and keep going til you get the best results. Say you get pretty good results at 14 degrees initial and then you try 16 initial but performance gets no better or decreases. At this point you want to go back to 14 and leave it there. Just unhook the vac advance and plug off its port on the carb and continue to advance the initial 2 degrees at a time til you get the best results. You need to get into the idle mixture tuning and work that til you get the best vacuum.

Here is what you want to do with that. First of all, get yourself a vacuum guage. Now turn the idle mixture screws all the way in and then back them out 2.5 turns each. Block the cars wheels up, put on the emergency brake, start the car and put it in gear. Now, hook the vacuum guage up to a full manifold vacuum source(located near the bottom of the carb). If your not sure if its a full manfold source or not, just try out all the vacuum ports on the carb til you find the one(s) that gives the highest reading at idle and use it. Now, youve got the guage hooked up and the car is running in gear. Start adjusting the idle mixture screws by turning them in 1/4 turn at a time. Do one screw a 1/4 turn and then do another.....continue to alternate back and forth. Continue to do this until you get the highest reading on the vacuum guage. Once the reading is as high as it can possibly be, your idle mixture will be pretty accurate. If the car will not idle in gear, set it just idling in park. After you get it tuned better than it is in park, try putting it in gear and see if it will idle now. If so, do some fine tuning of those screws and see what happens(adjust them from their current setting, dont crank em all the way in again and start over).

After you get the timing set to where its best and the carb set, your engine will probably idle a lot higher, so set it to where you want it with the curb idle screw.