My 68 convertible runs along fine, then very sporadically she stalls out. This happens when sitting and idling, or when cruising at 50 which causes a big backfire. The car will start in any gear, and has no back-up lights. Also, the key won't start the car. When you turn it to right, nothing happens but the run curcuit seems fine. I have the starter wired to a dash mounted switch I'm wondering if this is a ignition switch, or neutral safety switch problem. Anyone have any ideas? :confused:

I would say the n/safety switch has been bypassed.

If column shift, neutral switch at bottom of column inside firewall. If console shift, then it sets to the right of the shifter. Either one, look for the purple wires to be bypassed, or wired together or something. if you find it, mount it back to its plate and adjust so b/up lights come on when in reverse ang go off when in other gears.

As for the cutting out, if point distributor, could be ignition switch failing. If it is the original switch, how many times has it been used? Same would fo woth HEI swapout, plus, check to make sure the power connector at the distributor is plugged in all the way.

Thanks Everett. I guess I should give some more details. It's a 350 with a 2 speed powerglide AT console shifter. I replaced the ignition switch about 5 years ago, but the car got relatively little drive time (so not much switch use). I am trying to change that. It's a points dist. I'll check on that NS switch tonight and look at the ign sw wiring as well.

Okay, with it being console, you can remove the scale and see the n/switch on the right side of shifter, n/sw pin to fit into hole of shifter, if the n/sw is still about the area.

A purplw wire from the ign switch supplies power, then goes through the mated contacts to ass a purple/black(?) wire to the solenoid. If you have voltage there at n/sw, then no reason to tear apart to look at ign switch other than to reach up behind the dash and check/feel to make sure the plug is on the switch all the way.

Where are you located? There's no location in your header.

I'm in highland MD, between wash. and Balt. Thanks for the advice I'll do that voltage check tonight. I'll keep you posted.

Get a test light and a volt ohm meter (VOM). These tools are the backbone of automotive electrical troubleshooting. The wiring diagram in the assembly manual will provide you with the information you need to track down the trouble in the start and ignition circuits in your ’68 vert.

Thanks Farmboy, will do!

Ev and FB,
The neu/safe sw seems to have been bypassed as far as I can tell from the spagetti under the dash. My solution, until I have time and resources to rewire, is to run hot from the batt to a toggle switch on the dash where the lighter was and from the switch to a ballast resistor on the firewall. Then from the BR to the coil. Switch on, car will run. So now I have a switch for start and a switch for run, need the key to hear the radio. This will at least get me through my new engine break-in period. The switches don't look bad and seem to work fine. Is there any danger in doing it this way that I'm not seeing?

Ev and FB,
Is there any danger in doing it this way that I'm not seeing?No problem as long as you operate the car. However, don't expect the point set to last long with full battery voltage going through them, they will burn up quickly.

You stated you have points, there is a cloth covered wire from the firewall connection to the coil terminal (+). This is the resistive wire used vice a ballast resistor for reduction of coil voltage.

The other wire to the (+) post is a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to supply a full 12 volts when cranking. The yellow wire is attached to the R terminal on the solenoid and the large gauge purple wire is attached to the S terminal.

I know about those wires, but even with it all hooked up right, She still stalls out intermittently, probably a ground or bare wire short problem. The ballast resistor is reducing the voltage to the points which I hope will be ok. I will eventually correct all this or have it corrected. Thanks for all your advice.
PJ

Could be the connection at the firewall connection box making momentary contact.

FYI, I don't think a wire is shorted, you haven't blown any fuses or burned up any wires, the circuit is opening, hence loss of electrical power.