I bought a 1995 V6 3.4L Automatic Camaro. Now the problem is, when I try and start it , it takes quite a while for it to start up. Then after it actually does start , it starts to kinda "bogg". When I put it in gear it moves little by little and keeps bogging down. After about 5 minutes of slowly moving and bogging it dies.The car doesn't even go past 3,000 rpms when you rev it. Im in need of alot of help. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas about what wrong with it, and what I should do to get it running right?Please I need help A.S.A.P! Thank you.

Has this problem just started, or has it been going on for a while? Whens the last time you changed the fuel filter? Did you recntly get gas? did the problem start then? How old are the plugs, wires and rotor?
James

Well i just bought the car yesterday from a guy, and the problem has been going on for ahile according to him. he has had it sitting in his garage for about a year because one day he was driving and it just starting bogging and then died on him. so hes had it in his garage ever since. im not sure when the last time the fuel filter was changed but i did fill up with gas. so im not sure.

Is that why you just bought it from someone? If the service engine lite is on.. and If you dont have a code scanner,,, Go down to your friendly Autozone and act dumb. Tell them your engine lite is on ,, could you scan this for me and tell me what my problem, Sir?

My guess is that the catylitic convertor is plugged or came apart and plugged off. A code scanner will tell you something as its was history in the auto..

Yea, the service engine soon lite IS on. So if my catylitic converter is plugged or came apart and plugged off then how do i go about fixing that?Is it something that I can do at home?

I dont know a heap about CAT's, but IMO, if you dont have emmissons tests that your car has to pass, I'd remove it.
James

haha, i did not understand a word you just said, lol. sorry im not very car savy. i just would like to know if theres anything i can do myself to fix it.

LIke I said, Im no catalityc converter (CAT) expert, but Id remove it. The CAT is located on your exhaust pipes in fornt of the mufflers. Usually right under or behind the transmission. As far as removing it, thats simple enough. If you need a replacement, as far as I know, it will have to be purchased. IMO, Id check the fuel first. Start with the easy stuff. Im sure someone else with better knowledge aboutt hese things will chime in soon.
James...BTW..welcome to the forum!
James

Thank you, much. I'll remove it and see how it goes from there. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I need this car to runnnnn.

do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

The cats will be needed to pass test,, there are dummy senders that send a good signal back to the ecm to tell it ,, i am ok,, but to pass tests in your state if you have any sniffer laws and they do that mandatory testing ,, then you have to have it fixed... In some cases you can get a replacement from muffler shops, but make sure they will allow vehicle to pass tests.

I got into that with a 2000 TA and vehicle was in the 7/70 warranty,, but dealer would not replace it,, but did have nerve to tell me that I could replace it at a muffler show.. He choked after telling me that when i showed him copy of the law that said "NO removal until factory warranty is expired" . After a go round I sent information into state of Texas but guess they were out to lunch.

The fuel pump is another area to check. It may or may not show up on codes ...those intank fuel pumps supposed to last about a 100K then when you need it most,, they check out...
There are some pressure checker valves on the engine to check this,,, Do that too.

no dont got a fuel pressure gage. dang, all this is too much too handle.

go to autozone and maybe do both,, get codes tested and look to see if they sell fuel pressure tool ,, maybe 20-30 $ Once you get codes that will relieve some of the questions.... but dont think codes will show up on scanner . i say autozone cause they are eveywhere... If you have a parts america, they will do it ..same thing as checker... dont knnow about oreilly..

Dont stress it. Start with the easy stuff first. You can pick up a pressure gauge at you local parts store for under 20.00. When it boggs down, does it sound like a miss-fire? (this should sound like a studdering in the engine) Does it bogg down only under load,(in gear), or all the time? Dude, youll get through this.

Just hit the reset button!

Just kidding!

I beleive you have 3.8L not 3.4L


this should help



Lack of Power, Sluggishness, or Sponginess
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

DEFINITION: Engine delivers less than expected power Little or no increase in speed when accelerator pedal is pushed down part way.

1
Was the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check performed?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to the Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check

2
Perform a bulletin search.
If a bulletin that addresses the symptom is found, correct the condition as instructed in the bulletin.
Was a bulletin found that addresses the symptom?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 3

3
Was visual/physical check performed?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Visual/Physical Checks

4
Remove the air filter. Refer to Air Filter Element/Air Cleaner Assembly .
Inspect the air filter element.
Replace the air filter element if necessary.
Was a repair required?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 5

5
Check fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Pressure Test .
If a problem is found, repair as necessary.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 6

6
Check for water or alcohol contaminated fuel. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Testing Procedure .
If a problem is found, repair as necessary.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 7

7
Using a scan tool, monitor KS system for excessive spark retard activity.
If a problem is found, repair as necessary. Refer to Engine Knock Diagnosis in Engine General Information and Mechanical Diagnosis.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 8

8
Check for proper ignition coil output voltage with a J 26792 spark tester:
- Clip the spark tester to engine ground.

- Connect one end of a spark plug wire to the spark tester; connect the other end of the spark plug wire to the coil being tested.

- Connect one end of another spark plug wire to the other coil tower; connect the other end of the spark plug wire to ground.

- Crank the engine while observing the spark tester; a crisp blue spark should be observed.

- Repeat the above steps for each coil.

If adequate spark is not present at all coils, replace affected coil(s) as necessary. Refer to Ignition Control Module Replacement .
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 9

9
Remove the spark plugs.
Check for wet plugs, cracks, wear, improper gap, burned electrodes, or heavy deposits.
Notice: Determine the cause of the oil or gas fouled spark plugs in order to avoid damage to the new spark plugs.

If a problem is found, repair as necessary. Refer to On-Vehicle Service in Ignition System.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 10

10
Inspect the ignition coils for cracks or carbon tracking.
If a problem is found, replace affected coil(s) as necessary. Refer to Ignition Control Module Replacement .
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 11

11
Check PCM grounds for being clean, tight and in their proper locations. Refer to Ground Distribution in Electrical Diagnosis.
If a problem is found, repair as necessary.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 12

12
Check the exhaust system for a possible restriction:
- Inspect exhaust system for damaged or collapsed pipes.

- Inspect muffler for heat distress or possible internal failure.

- Check for a possible plugged three-way catalytic converter by checking exhaust system back pressure. Refer to Restricted Exhaust System Check

If a problem is found, repair as necessary. Refer to On-Vehicle Service in Exhaust System.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 13

13
Check the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) for proper operation. Refer to 4L60-E Transmission Diagnosis .
If a problem is found, repair as necessary.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 14

14
Refer to Engine General Information and Mechanical Diagnosis to check for the following conditions:
- Low compression.

- Sticking or leaking valves.

- Worn camshaft lobe(s).

- Incorrect valve timing.

- Bent push rods.

- Worn rocker arms.

- Broken valve springs.

If a problem is found, repair as necessary.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 15

15
Review all diagnostic procedures within this table.
When all procedures have been completed and no malfunctions are found, review/inspect the following:
- Visual/physical inspection. Refer to Visual/Physical Checks .

- Scan Tool data. Refer to Engine Scan Tool Data List .

- Freeze Frame data/Failure Records data.

- All connections within a suspected circuit and/or system.

If a problem is found, repair as necessary.
Was a problem found?
--
Go to Step 16
Review technical bulletins

16
Operate the vehicle to duplicate conditions present when the original symptom was noted.

Is symptom still present?
--
Go to Step 3
System OK





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

list is scary,, fuel check and check for codes,,, this has got to be simple..

Dont stress it. Start with the easy stuff first. You can pick up a pressure gauge at you local parts store for under 20.00. When it boggs down, does it sound like a miss-fire? (this should sound like a studdering in the engine) Does it bogg down only under load,(in gear), or all the time? Dude, youll get through this.
well, it boggs all the time. even when im not in gear and just in park. i'll rev up the engine and it will start to bogg. the rpms dont even go past 3,000-4,000. also after i start it the engine sounds all clingy and clangy.

If it were me, the first thing Id do is change the fuel filter. Id also cut open the old one, after it was off and see what kind of gook is inside. How many miles are on the car?
James

144,000 miles. yea, ikno, ALOT.

gettin up there, thats for sure. Id bet a nickel that your problem is either fuel filter, pump or injector related.
James

alrite. thanx bro. for all of the help. thanx all you guys. ill try everything you guys have told me to, and ill be back for more. haha. this forum is great.

144K,, I would think that the fuel pump is going out and what makes things worse, is that when they are trying to go that pulls more current thru wiring harness and right top of the harness plug in they kink,,, guess what ,, they burn into.. so if you have to pull tank for pump,,, be sure to inspect that part of harness,, good news is that this is normal and most dealers have these in stock,, its a short harness,, guess it was planned?

My bet is the fuel pump as well. I just had one go out again in my '97 pickup for about the 5th time. The GM ones in the '90s are only good for 40-60K. To check, turn the key on and listen for a whine in the fuel tank. It should come on for 3-5 seconds and then stop. Typically GM in tank pumps don't completely die, they just refuse to pump more fuel when you need it.

Go get a Chiltons or Haynes manual from an auto parts store. They are a good reference for the beginner.

Checking the fuel pressure is easy if you have gauge. You just plug it in and have some one start it for you.

Does your engine get real hot after you start it and run it for a while? That is an indication of a plugged cat. Check to see how much exhaust is actually coming out of the tail pipe.

Code scanners for that year are relatively cheap since they are OBD I and they are worth the investment.

my bet is on the fuel pump. Good luck.

You said it sounds "clingy and clangy"? Makes me think the timing chain is about to fall off of it from excessive wear, and with 144K miles, if it has never been replaced then that is probably it. I've replaced more timing chains than I care to think about on high mileage engines...usually after they fall off and the engine dies, and then I normally have to replace several valves becaue they hit the pistons when the timing chain lets go.
If it is making "not normal" sounds, I would recommend you take the car to a mechanic you trust to check. If it is the timing chain and it lets go, your going to be out a lot more money getting the heads repaired. A heavily worn timing chain can cause the exact problems your describing.

how bout those idler pullies? the tensioner on the belts? ,, you got it running?

That long list is the gm service manual . Just use it as a guide for what to look at first.

i agree with Travis, id get your timing chain replaced because you dont want it to quit on you. Its better to spend a little money now, than to wait and have to spend lots of money in the long run. By the way, welcome to the forum :D

I would take it to a dealer and have them give you an estimate. Most dealers apply the price of the estimate towards the work if you get it fixed. Sounds like you need the car on the road asap. You could be hunting problems for days and end up spending a boat load of cash replacing things that are the cause. While its as the shop, I would definitely replace the fuel filter since you have no idea when that was changed. Also, without knowing the history of the car, I would also change the plugs and wires since you have 144,000 miles and they should have been replaced at 100,000. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have them give the car a check up to find any other worn parts like shocks etc. I had a friend who had a similiar problem on his car. it wouldn't rev past 2500 rpm and he couldn't go above 30mph. Turned out it was a plugged cat. Good luck

Here is my advice...

1.Don't have a repair manual? Buy one. You need it.
2.read the manual and find out how to check the trouble codes with a jumper wire(if you don't have a scanner.)

Go from there.

My guess is that you have a clogged up cat. It happens. If you get a trouble code for one of the quad-module-drivers then it could very well be the a clogged up cat.

Check the air injection pump, and the fuse to it. If the pump goes bad then the cat will clog up with a quickness.

Hope I helped.

Check your cat converters......

If he hasn't gotten it fixed in almost 2 years then it probably won't get fixed ;)

Good luck with your Camaro. These cars with all of the sensors and electronics pose the same problems as many of the older cars mechanical problems. I am no mechanic....... but from my experience with several Chevy vehicles in the 90's and up, I have had three items causing the same kind of issues you are having. A plugged catalytic converter, a faulty mass air flow sensor, and a malfuntioning egr on the intake. If your check engine light is lit, it would benefit you to go to Autozone or Advance Auto parts and have them check your computer.