In my SS manual steering, went to power steering box install and did some clearence calculating and looks like my hooker headers pipe # 6 will be in the way. The pipe is at a slight angle and looks like i will have to dimple the header by about .05 inches to install the power steering box with a little clearence

I would like to know the best way to dimple or compress the pipe in the best way possible. please help

Thanks jaker110 / FLASH69SS

If you mark it well enough, you can take it to a welding shop and have them "move" the tube. If you just want to dent the tube, wrap some duct tape around a piece of water pipe and hammer on the pipe. You can also use anything round like a large socket. Making a long teardrop dent is better than a short bump. If the tube is hard to dent, heat it up with a torch. A PS box is about 1/2" wider than a manual box.

Dont know if this will help but when I installed my powersteering. The notch near the top rested dead against the header. I used a small wooden wedge between the notch and the power steering box and hammered it down until it separated away from the box. I creased the header enough so that it would not rub against the box and didnt damage the ceramic coating on the pipe. Just be careful to crease just as much as you need.

Mark

"IF" you have the correct frame and engine mounts, Hooker competition headers should fit with no problems.

I agree with TJS69. I had dimpled my Hooker Comps for PS clearance. Recently found out I had wrong motor mounts and replaced them. Then there was plenty of clearance. The header obviously would have cleared without the dimple.

Side note: I'm not so sure you can find the correct mounts from a Auto Parts store, least I couldn't. Got the correct ones from Ricks and they raised the engine up about 1/2"

I agree with the guys about the mounts. You shouldn't have any interference problems. I have Hooker Super Comp with 1 7/8 tubes in my 69 SS and have plenty of clearance.

Just for reference, which are the 'correct' mounts, the 307/327 frame stands and matching engine mounts, or the 302/350?

I've been watching the header posts very closely and want to make sure I have everything correct at assembly time.

Either brackets work fine as long as you use the matching motor mount for the particular frame brackets you use.
I have some engine mount info and dimensions on my page below.

Thanks David for the info, so as long as the frame stands and motor mounts are paired up correctly everything should be fine, relative engine position remains the same as long as the parts are not mis-matched.

I have read you site many times and want to thank you for sharing your knowledge and putting together such a great site everyone can reference,...please visualize a silent bow towards the west