Im gonna swap out the drum setup I have from a 9 inch to an 11 inch. In order to do that I need to remove the axles. I never have done this before and am looking for some guidance. I believe they are held in by C clips. So I am told to take the cover off, let it drain. Push the axle forward and remove the C CLIP. But is that it? Do I need to repack any bearings? or replace any seals? Can I reuse the C CLIPS i take out? I never have done this before and want to make sure I dont miss any important steps. Thanks in advance.

Mark
TOOFUN

So I am told to take the cover off, let it drain. Push the axle forward and remove the C CLIP. But is that it? Do I need to repack any bearings? or replace any seals? Can I reuse the C CLIPS i take out?

Mark
TOOFUN

Yes - remove the cover to drain the rearend - take all the lower half of the cover bolts out first* then work your way up to the top with the last ones. This will allow the lubr to drain out slowly and keep the mess down.
* = it may be necessary to slightly pry out on the bottom of the cover with a screwdriver to get it to start draining depending on the sealant used on the cover.

Before you can 'push the axle(s) forward (in)' you have to remove the spider gear shaft. Remove the shaft retaining bolt and carefully push the shaft out. I usually start with the shaft at an angle up towards the top of the housing and remove the bolt - then I carefully try to push the shaft from the top with a 'special' bend screwdriver I have and pull the shaft out the bottom with tape wrapped pliers. ( NOTE: you have to be carefull and NOT rotate the carrier while the shaft is out or you will have to realign the spider gears before it will push back in...)
The axles can then be pushed inward to release the "C"clips from the axle - a small magnet helps find them...

You don't need to "repack" anything - the differencial lube takes care of that. It's a good idea to put a slight coat of grease on new bearings, if needed, to help lube them until you make some turns...

Since you've got the axles out - now is a great time to replace the axle end seals - their cheap and easy to do.
Pry the old ones out with a 'seal-remover' tool and then apply a bead of sealant like "permatex #2" around the outer edge of the new seal and carefully tap the new ones in with a small hammer, then apply a very light coat of lube or grease to the new seal lip.

Reinstall axles and the old "C"clips, fill with new lube (add posi additive if posi) and go for test after the new brakes are done...

Hope this helps;
John

oh - ps: get a good service manual - this will all be covered in it.

Thats pretty much it. There is a bolt that that holds the differential pin. That pin needs to come out to push the axel in. I did replace the seals,my bearings looked ok.I put rear disc on in the spring, It was much easier than I thought. You can reuse the c-clips. Good Luck. John

Thanks Guys,

What SEAL REMOVER TOOL should I use? Do I have to replace the oil seal? The ones I have do not leak one bit and Ill be reusing the same axles that I have not new ones. Would just hate to pull good seals out only to have them leak after reinstalling new ones since the ones I have in there dont leak one bit now.

Thanks
Mark
TOOFUN

Just wanted to second the part about not rotating anything once the pin is out. Its no fun getting those spider gears back in, especially if youre not real smart on rear differentials (like me).

dave

What SEAL REMOVER TOOL should I use?
TOOFUN
I rented one from Autozone.


Do I have to replace the oil seal? The ones I have do not leak one bit and Ill be reusing the same axles that I have not new ones.

If you mean the axle seals its your call, but they are cheap and you can pick them up at Autozone when you get the axle bearing removal tool.


( NOTE: you have to be carefull and NOT rotate the carrier while the shaft is out or you will have to realign the spider gears before it will push back in...)

Just turning the carrier will not require re-aligning the spider gears, but it may cause a thrust washer to fall out. At least that has been my experience.


Over all it is a pretty simple, but it can get messy, procedure.

No - you "Don't Have To" replace the seals - but, the only time I didn't, one leaked on a new brake job...

:confused: Why allow a $3.oo seal to ruin a $300.oo brake swap :confused:

:waving: John

OK,

Let me ask you this. I am replacing the whole setup backing plate and all. Do I need to replace or remove the seal and axle bearing in order to completely replace the whole drum setup including the backing plate?

Thanks
Mark
TOOFUN

You don't need to at all. The seal (first) and the bearing (second) are pressed onto the axle shaft, and will come out with the axle after you remove the c-clip.

It may take a lil oomph to get them out. I've seen adapters for slide hammers that will bolt to the wheel studs, or reverse a drum and loosely put the lugnuts on and use that.

As was stated, disassembling an assembly is often a good excuse to do some refurbishing. Those bearings may have been holding up the car for a long long time.

The seal (first) and the bearing (second) are pressed onto the axle shaft, and will come out with the axle after you remove the c-clip.


Not being critical but you mean pressed onto the axle housing.

So the axles dont slide out easily after the c clips are removed? Do they require alot of force to slide out?

Mark

My axels came out easy after pulling the pin and c-clip. I replaced all bearings/races/seals ,but I was rebuilding the rear,not doing brakes. If for any reason you need to rotate the carrier, install the pin to prevent a mishap.

If you are worried about your ability to change the seal without messing it up it is OK to reuse the old one if it did not leak. If the axle needs help coming out then put the brake drum back on only put it on backwards over the wheel studs and put the lugnuts on backwards far enough for them to grab good but leaving enough looseness so you can use the drum like a slide hammer.

...put the lugnuts on backwards far enough for them to grab good but leaving enough looseness so you can use the drum like a slide hammer.

:D That's another old farmer's trick huh Charlie... ;)

John

btw - "You don't need to at all. The seal (first) and the bearing (second) are pressed onto the axle shaft, and will come out with the axle after you remove the c-clip."
Jim - I think your confusing your 'Furds & 'Chevy's'... :D

Yes - remove the cover to drain the rearend - take all the lower half of the cover bolts out first* then work your way up to the top with the last ones. This will allow the lubr to drain out slowly and keep the mess down.
* = it may be necessary to slightly pry out on the bottom of the cover with a screwdriver to get it to start draining depending on the sealant used on the cover.

Before you can 'push the axle(s) forward (in)' you have to remove the spider gear shaft. Remove the shaft retaining bolt and carefully push the shaft out. I usually start with the shaft at an angle up towards the top of the housing and remove the bolt - then I carefully try to push the shaft from the top with a 'special' bend screwdriver I have and pull the shaft out the bottom with tape wrapped pliers. ( NOTE: you have to be carefull and NOT rotate the carrier while the shaft is out or you will have to realign the spider gears before it will push back in...)
The axles can then be pushed inward to release the "C"clips from the axle - a small magnet helps find them...

You don't need to "repack" anything - the differencial lube takes care of that. It's a good idea to put a slight coat of grease on new bearings, if needed, to help lube them until you make some turns...

Since you've got the axles out - now is a great time to replace the axle end seals - their cheap and easy to do.
Pry the old ones out with a 'seal-remover' tool and then apply a bead of sealant like "permatex #2" around the outer edge of the new seal and carefully tap the new ones in with a small hammer, then apply a very light coat of lube or grease to the new seal lip.

Reinstall axles and the old "C"clips, fill with new lube (add posi additive if posi) and go for test after the new brakes are done...

Hope this helps;
John

oh - ps: get a good service manual - this will all be covered in it.

Any one have a link or reccomend a manual to show diagrams/pics of this process? Not to sure what the retaining shaft and bolt look like! dohhh :confused:
THANKS!

Any one have a link or reccomend a manual to show diagrams/pics of this process? Not to sure what the retaining shaft and bolt look like! dohhh :confused:
THANKS!

It's covered in Section 4, "Component Parts Replacement", in the Chassis Service Manual, with photos. :thumbsup:

Got it! THANKS!!!

"dee dee dee" :noway:

ok. I need help. I followed the instrcution on this post to a t. However, when Pulled the pin out a rather large concave washer fell down into the bottom of the housing.

I continued to pull the c clips out and slide the axles out as well. Now it's time to put the whole thing back together and I can't determine where this washer goes. In the chasis service manual it looks like its the thrust washer but I cant figure out how that is possible. It's about an inch and half wide and it clearly is there to hold that pin somehow.

Anyone ever have this problem?

[quote=JimM;417502]You don't need to at all. The seal (first) and the bearing (second) are pressed onto the axle shaft, and will come out with the axle after you remove the c-clip.

It may take a lil oomph to get them out. I've seen adapters for slide hammers that will bolt to the wheel studs, or reverse a drum and loosely put the lugnuts on and use that.quote]

Sorry Jim this is just wrong:o.... I've never seen a C-clip and pressed axle bearings in the same place. If you have c-clips the axles slide out real easy if you have pressed bearings they can be a bear to get out.

On a c-clip rear if you replace the axle bearing you have to replace the seal. I can't recall a time I ever removed anb axle and didn't replace the seal.

HTH
Jeff

http://1967-81camarocarparts.com/catalogPDFs/F1%2005%20brakes.pdf

Go to the above link and page 5-23.

The thrust washers go between the carrier and the spider gear, may be a real pain to install. I usually turn the spiders slow and get it to an open area, slide the washer in, and spin the spiders back into position. Good luck.... it can be a P.I.T.A. :yes:

Thanks. That worked. I had to tap it in. I hope i didn't ruin anything.